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  1. #1
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    Front brake rubs on headset

    The front brake that I'm trying to install on my frame is rubbing against the front part of my headset. The brake came with 2 washers, both of which are in front to maximize the distance from the headset to the brake. However, the distance doesn't seem to be enough, since the brake is rubbing against the headset. I'm thinking it may be possible to just insert another washer in the front to space it out enough, but I was also wondering if doing so may decrease the threading too much. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Matt Gaunt's Avatar
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    What sort of brake are we talking about here? Eg. Disc, caliper, V?

    The 1000 words and the picture spring to mind too...
    Matt
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  3. #3
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    Pictures please

  4. #4
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    from the description, it's a road caliper brake, for the front, if it's a modern Shimano model, there is plenty of thread, and you are supplied 4 different length pivot nuts, so you can add spacers, lights etc, if it's another make, you will need to look at what came with the brake, and how much thread there is

  5. #5
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    It's a Campagnolo Victory caliper. Pics coming soon.

    http://imgur.com/a/cpGHT

    The piece immediately to the right of the thread is the nut. I'm quite sure there's enough room, but advice is appreciated.
    Last edited by plgrm; 09-20-11 at 07:59 AM. Reason: link

  6. #6
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    Most caliper brake installations use an aluminum flat or "saddle" washer between the rear of the brake caliper and the front of the fork crown. I've got 2 mm thick aluminum washers on all of my bikes. In some cases these spacer washers are needed to have the rear of the brake pads clear the fork blades.

  7. #7
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Most caliper brake installations on cheap bikes use an aluminum flat or "saddle" washer
    FTFY.

    If you look at the pics, you can see it's the arrangement you find on decent road bikes of the last 30 years, with the flush sleeve allen nut and flat mounting surface. Those (nasty and superfluous IMO) non-slip washers with the teeth you can see two of in the pic are what's normally fitted with these.

    If it was me, I'd disassemble the brake and grind that nut with the spring groove for clearance.

    Actually, if it was me, I wouldn't run a single-pivot brake on the front, unless it's a museum piece.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    If it was me, I'd disassemble the brake and grind that nut with the spring groove for clearance.

    Actually, if it was me, I wouldn't run a single-pivot brake on the front, unless it's a museum piece.
    I'm trying to keep everything in the same era as the frame, with an exception for the wheels. Why exactly would you recommend grinding it down rather than more spacers? I'm not too keen on unnecessarily altering the brake.

  9. #9
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by plgrm View Post
    I'm trying to keep everything in the same era as the frame, with an exception for the wheels. Why exactly would you recommend grinding it down rather than more spacers? I'm not too keen on unnecessarily altering the brake.
    Just add more spacers.

    And there's nothing wrong with running a single pivot side pull brake on the front. People did it for decades and the world didn't come to a catastrophic end. As long as you know what to expect when you grab the brakes, you'll have no problems.

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