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  1. #1
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    Track Bike Crankset on Road Bike

    I am tinkering with a commuter. I have a road bike frame with a 130mm rear dropout. For the sake of simplicity, I want to run an 11-32 rear cassette with a single 44 or 46 tooth single front sprocket crank. Can I run a track bike or SS single sprocket front crank. I guess the concern would be spacing issues off the BB. What should I look for in a rear derailleur?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Shouldn't be a problem, although if the chain unships frequently you may want to run a front derailleur just to keep the chain on the chainring. Just use whatever rear derailleur is currently on the bike. You may want to adjust the chain length.

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    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    A lot of track cranks come with 1/8" chainrings which will not be compatible with mutiple rear gears. Just make sure your chainring is compatible with whatever chain you need to use for the cassette.
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  4. #4
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    Dan, I was just about to post about the chain compatibility. Is their any chainring/chain terminology I need to look for

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    The width of the front ring isn't dependent on the crankset.

    Just buy a 3/32" front ring. The only thing to look for, is most track cranks are 144BCD most Shimano compatible road rings are 130BCD, there are plenty of 144BCD 3/32" rings available though.

  6. #6
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sideshow_bob View Post
    The width of the front ring isn't dependent on the crankset.

    Just buy a 3/32" front ring. The only thing to look for, is most track cranks are 144BCD most Shimano compatible road rings are 130BCD, there are plenty of 144BCD 3/32" rings available though.
    Understood, but cranksets often come with the chainring. I was merely suggesting that the OP be armed with that knowlege before pulling the trigger.
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  7. #7
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    chainrings for older Campag road cranks are 144, 42t and upward.

    Sugino made compatible ones, too , softer alloy, less money..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 10-04-11 at 06:43 PM.

  8. #8
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    What should I shoot for in BB width to try to center the front ring on the rear cassette? And one more question do track cranksets typically use standard road bike pedals or the larger diameter BMX type?
    Last edited by Paul Barnard; 09-22-11 at 06:38 AM.

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    I did something very similar with my bike. However, I just used a double and ground off all the teeth on the large chainring. That way I could commute with pants without worrying about ripping up my pant leg.

    I have a 44t and a 12-32 and it works well.
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    I have the chain/chainring/cassette issue all figured out. I do wonder though how I can determine how wide of a bottom bracket I will need so that my chainline remains centered as much as possible. Can anyone help me figure that out?

    And another question. Can I use v brake levers with road brakes?

    Thanks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Barnard View Post
    I have the chain/chainring/cassette issue all figured out. I do wonder though how I can determine how wide of a bottom bracket I will need so that my chainline remains centered as much as possible. Can anyone help me figure that out?

    And another question. Can I use v brake levers with road brakes?

    Thanks.
    You want the chainring centered over the cassett, either inline with the middle cog (7 or 9-speed) or inline with the gap between the two cogs bracketing the center line (6,8,10-speed). The spindle length will depend on what crank you choose.

    V-brake levers pull more cable and have less leverage that the levers made for caliper road brakes so they will operate the brakes but require a lot more hand pressure to stop at a given rate. If you ride in a flat area and have strong hands they may be acceptable.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    You want the chainring centered over the cassett, either inline with the middle cog (7 or 9-speed) or inline with the gap between the two cogs bracketing the center line (6,8,10-speed). The spindle length will depend on what crank you choose.

    V-brake levers pull more cable and have less leverage that the levers made for caliper road brakes so they will operate the brakes but require a lot more hand pressure to stop at a given rate. If you ride in a flat area and have strong hands they may be acceptable.
    Thanks for he reply. Is there any way to tell what width I will need with this crank?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIXED-GEAR-F...item19c9492817

  13. #13
    Senior Member zukahn1's Avatar
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    Rather than mess with getting the chainline right for a track crank. It may be cheaper and easier to buy a good used road crank with two removable chainrings and just remove the outer chainring. If you shop around a bit you should be able to get a crank suitable for this for less than half of what track crank and bottom bracket would cost.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
    Rather than mess with getting the chainline right for a track crank. It may be cheaper and easier to buy a good used road crank with two removable chainrings and just remove the outer chainring. If you shop around a bit you should be able to get a crank suitable for this for less than half of what track crank and bottom bracket would cost.
    This is good advice. A road crank will normally have a recommended bottom bracket associated with it and using just the inner chainring will pretty much assure it's in the right place.

    You might try to find a "flat" old style chainring that lacks modern shifting enhancements since it will resist spilling the chain better than a newer ring.

    The crank you referred to says nothing about what width chain it requires. If it's a true track crank and uses a 1/8" chain, it will not work for your planned setup.
    Last edited by HillRider; 10-04-11 at 06:31 PM.

  15. #15
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    For 130 bcd road cranks , surly[qbp] has stainless steel single speed chainrings.
    best if the centered middle of a triple crank , lining up with the central cassette cog.

    I have one .. single speed SS CR, I got for my IG hub bike..

    cyclocross, some setups, uses a single ring setup, so makes a market for
    chainguard discs for 44t , and 42 t setups. on road cranks,

    i got one for the 38t for my setup..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 10-04-11 at 06:52 PM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    For 130 bcd road cranks , surly[qbp] has stainless steel single speed chainrings.
    I have one I got for my IG hub bike..
    They also have them in 110 mm BCD

  17. #17
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    110 is pretty Un Track.. they also sell 4 bolt ones too.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    110 is pretty Un Track...
    Right it is, but so is an 11x32 cassette and 130 mm dropout spacing. The 110 mm option was in case the OP finds an old SR, Sun Tour or Suguino 110 crankset which would work wonderfully in his application.

  19. #19
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    What does BCD stand for? Bolt circle diameter?

  20. #20
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Barnard View Post
    What does BCD stand for? Bolt circle diameter?
    Correctamundo.
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  21. #21
    Senior Member zukahn1's Avatar
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    I would recomend an older Sugino 110 for this while a little more expensive used they have much more forgiving chainrings than the SR's.

  22. #22
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
    Rather than mess with getting the chainline right for a track crank. It may be cheaper and easier to buy a good used road crank with two removable chainrings and just remove the outer chainring. If you shop around a bit you should be able to get a crank suitable for this for less than half of what track crank and bottom bracket would cost.
    The problem with running modern road cranks with a single chainring is that modern road chainrings often have ramps, pins, and truncated teeth to make it easier for the chain to shift on and off the ring. In the absence of a front derailleur this can lead to inopportune chain dropping.

    If the OP opts for this route, I'd recommend avoiding cranks made in the last 10 to 15 years to avoid these modern enhancements.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    The problem with running modern road cranks with a single chainring is that modern road chainrings often have ramps, pins, and truncated teeth to make it easier for the chain to shift on and off the ring. In the absence of a front derailleur this can lead to inopportune chain dropping.

    If the OP opts for this route, I'd recommend avoiding cranks made in the last 10 to 15 years to avoid these modern enhancements.
    That's why fietsbob and I both recommended Surly chainrings as they are completely flat with no shifting "improvements".

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    That's why fietsbob and I both recommended Surly chainrings as they are completely flat with no shifting "improvements".
    What BCD are the Surly rings? 4 or 5 bolt?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Barnard View Post
    What BCD are the Surly rings? 4 or 5 bolt?
    Here is Surly's web page listing all of their chainrings: http://surlybikes.com/parts/stainless_steel_chainrings

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