Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 233 Post(s)
There are a number of good free tutorials on the net, both text and pictures, and video. Do a search and since they're free review a few of them until you get the picture. All derailleur systems are basically the same, so don't sweat whether the tutorials are for your exact system, you just want to get a good understanding of the basics.
Here's one trick that will help you know if it's a limit screw or cable tension problem.
When you can't shift to the end of the range. Forget the levers for a moment and put them in the slack position. Now adjust the limit screws shifting by pulling the bare wire away from the down tube like a bow string. That will allow good adjustment of the limits, and confirm that the derailleur is capable of the shift. Now it's only a matter of setting the cable tension. I do this using the shift form the 2nd sprocket to the third and back, so the limit can't be a factor. Once the 2-3 shift is right all the rest follow, though you might end up making some very tiny fine tuning adjustments.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance