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  1. #1
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    Making my own fender drawbolts?

    One of the drawbolts on my SKS/Esge P45 fenders came off on the road. I don't want to pay $15 just to replace one little piece, so I found a regular bolt with the same width and thread, and tried drilling a hole through it. It must be harder than my drill bits, because it I didn't get very far. I think I'll look for a nylon bolt at the hardware store. Is there any reason that won't work?

  2. #2
    Senior Member mr.smith.pdx's Avatar
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    Your LBS can't dig one out of their random pile of little bits for $2?

    That sucks.

    Have you asked at a bike shop yet?
    Don't be offended. This is just my opinion. It stinks, just like everybody else's opinion.

  3. #3
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    where'd you lose it? I've also got a sks fender with a the bolt that went missing on the road. Found it the next day while biking. Bolt was so shiny, I just couldn't miss it.

    as for sks...i wish they included at least 1 more set of drawbolts with their fenders.

  4. #4
    afraid of whales Mr IGH's Avatar
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    Planet Bike uses the same size, you can purchase one from their website, only $1. I'd call a few LBSes, to see if they stock this part. Nylon should be OK for a one stay, I wouldn't use nylon for all 4 stays.

    http://ecom1.planetbike.com/7006_7.html

  5. #5
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    esge FWIW they changed hardware and mounting styles , over the years .
    need to know what the strut rod diameter is .
    for Koga they eliminated the draw bolt entirely, molded plastic piece,
    has a friction fit with the stays, which is easily re adjusted, if you bump it out of alignment.

    PB has several types of mountings too ..
    our local shop has a box with dead fenders to cannibalize.

  6. #6
    Senior Member BCRider's Avatar
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    If you're just using regular bulk bolts from the hardware store then you're just drilling them wrong. They are mild enough steel that they'll drill out easily. But two key points for drilling steel. Use a slower speed than you think you should and use lots of pressure. The low speed and lots of pressure varies as the size of drill but generally whatever speed and pressure you use when drilling aluminium should be halved for speed and not quite doubled for pressure.

    Spinning up fast and using light pressure on steel is a great way to dull the edge of a drill. But because you're trying to start and center on a round shape it's hard to do without holding back on the pressure until it starts. To make things easier start by holding the bolt you're modifying in a proper vise. You can't hand hold it. Then whack a center punch mark where you want the hole. Use a smaller drill bit to enlarge the center punch mark. Around a 3/32 size drill will do nicely. Make this enlarged center hole about a 1/16 to 3/32 deep. Then switch to the size you want to use and drill through using a slower speed and lots of pressure. Just be sure to easy up a bit on both speed and pressure when you feel it cutting through on the other side.

    This all assumes you're using a hand held drill. If you're using a drill press then it shouldn't be a problem provided you start the hole as described. On the other hand if you're trying to use a super high speed tool such as a Dremel then you're doomed to failure from the beginning. A Dremel or similar rotary tool just does not have the torque or low speed ability to drill steel at all well.
    Model airplanes are cool too!.....

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr.smith.pdx View Post
    Your LBS can't dig one out of their random pile of little bits for $2?
    When I took my bike in for a tune-up and asked them to fix the fenders, they stuck a useless zip tie through the mounting hole and around the stay. It does nothing. I don't think they're used to commuter/touring bikes, since they had no better idea than I how to install a new saddle tension pin.
    Quote Originally Posted by jjpjimmy View Post
    where'd you lose it? I've also got a sks fender with a the bolt that went missing on the road. Found it the next day while biking. Bolt was so shiny, I just couldn't miss it.
    I think I lost it on tour, so no dice.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr IGH View Post
    Awesome! Thanks, that's just what I need.
    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob
    need to know what the strut rod diameter is .
    I think it's 5/32", because that drill bit seemed the same size.
    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    A Dremel or similar rotary tool just does not have the torque or low speed ability to drill steel at all well.
    Well there's my problem I was using a dremel (-type tool) at high speed with low pressure; that's how my dad said to do it. I filed a section of the bolt flat before I started drilling, and I was going to drill a pilot hole, but I didn't get that far.

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