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  1. #1
    Sausage King
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    Easy way to change a tire roadside with a SA IGH?

    So I picked up a bike for commuting this winter. It has a
    Sturmey-Archer 5 speed rear hub. When I bought it the thought didn't
    cross my mind that this hub would make it difficult to change the tire
    on the side of the road at 5am in 30 degree temps.

    I'll probably use something puncture resistant for tires and maybe a sealant.

    Basically though to get the tire off means completely disconnecting the cable,
    which means my shifts will be out of adjustment. Then the possibility of losing a small part on the side of the road, plus an extra tool I'll have to carry to remove the cable.

    It looks like I could maybe get enough slack in the cable to get the cable housing out of the cable stop on the frame and then be able to change the tire with the cable still connected to the hub. Then put the wheel back in the dropouts in the same place it was before the flat...IDK

    Anyone have any experience with this?


  2. #2
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    I suppose if you can get the cable housing out of the stop, it could be theoretically possible to get enough slack in the cable to remove the indicator guide in order to loosen the axle lock nut, and thereby remove the wheel. I've never tried it, but then again, my SA 5 speeds have fulcrum levers, not frame mounted cable stops, so releasing the cable is not an option.
    Pain in the butt at 5 am and below freezing for sure which makes a good case for the best flat resistant tires you can find.
    Cable connection is the one place where Sram gearhubs shine.
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


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  3. #3
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    There's a locknut on the indicator chain. When you have it set against a properly adjusted barrel on the cable, you can disconnect the barrel and the position of the locknut will retain your adjustment.

    When you reinstall the wheel after repair, simply tighten the barrel until it seats against the locknut and the adjustment will be the same as it was before you removed the wheel.

  4. #4
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    There's a locknut on the indicator chain. When you have it set against a properly adjusted barrel on the cable, you can disconnect the barrel and the position of the locknut will retain your adjustment.

    When you reinstall the wheel after repair, simply tighten the barrel until it seats against the locknut and the adjustment will be the same as it was before you removed the wheel.
    I dunno, I find this method unreliable. It assumes that the cable housing ends stay fully seated in the stops. 5 speed adjustment is a bit more finiky and critical than 3 speed.
    I always find I need to do some dialing whenever I disconnect the cable.
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


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  5. #5
    Senior Member kamtsa's Avatar
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    I fix the flats on the bike without removing the wheel.
    Happier than a camel on wednesday.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    A good reason to fit Marathon Plus tyres.

  7. #7
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelW View Post
    A good reason to fit Marathon Plus tyres.
    That's my solution. Works well for me.
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


    Rule #12: The correct number of bikes to own is n+1

  8. #8
    Senior Member cyqlist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kamtsa View Post
    I fix the flats on the bike without removing the wheel.
    That's always my first preference, but it's not always possible or practical. There will be times when the tube has to be replaced, or the puncture can be much easier to find with the wheel off. I remember reading somewhere about a way to carry a spare tube in such a way that it can be installed without removing the wheel, but can't remember where it was and never tried it myself. Adjusting the shift cable never seemed like a big deal to me, just takes a few seconds, at least with the hubs I have used. I would not count on the adjustment staying the same when the wheel has been removed and reinstalled.

  9. #9
    Senior Member catmandew52's Avatar
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    Only ride with a Titanium BF member. The manservant in the support truck can do it for you.
    But if you are still unsure, check out http://www.bikewebsite.com/bicycle-wheel-removal.htm
    Take care that no one hates you justly. ~Publilius Syrus

  10. #10
    Real Men Ride Ordinaries fuzz2050's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyqlist View Post
    That's always my first preference, but it's not always possible or practical. I remember reading somewhere about a way to carry a spare tube in such a way that it can be installed without removing the wheel, but can't remember where it was and never tried it myself..
    This what you were looking for? I've never tried it either, but it looks- interesting.

  11. #11
    Senior Member cyqlist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzz2050 View Post
    This what you were looking for? I've never tried it either, but it looks- interesting.
    That is interesting, but what I was thinking of involved carrying the tube somehow wrapped around one of the stays. Also in the comments at that link someone mentions "sausage stye" (closed end) tubes, which I have also heard of but not recently.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Looigi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyqlist View Post
    That is interesting, but what I was thinking of involved carrying the tube somehow wrapped around one of the stays. Also in the comments at that link someone mentions "sausage stye" (closed end) tubes, which I have also heard of but not recently.
    It has to wrap around a seat stay and chain stay. Wrap it around the stays on the non-drive side.

  13. #13
    Sausage King
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    Thanks for all the responses. My bike has track ends but I guess I can get the wheel back on "close enough" just by chain tension. It'd be nice of there was some kind of quick disconnect for the cable close to the hub. That would solve my problem with the cable adjustment. Maybe I can engineer something.

    In the meantime ill get some tires and hope for the best! Unfortunately my last two flats were caused by the presta stem ripping away from the tube for no apparent reason.

  14. #14
    incazzare. lostarchitect's Avatar
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    It literally only takes about 5 seconds to get the linkage re-connected and the shifting right. It's really not a big deal. You will do fine!
    1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson) San Remo Plus, 1989 Trek 520, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter

  15. #15
    12mph+ commuter
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    Is that a Kilo WT5? I just bought one this summer. I haven't had a flat yet (definitely swap out those cheapo tires for something nice), but I think John's method would work find. If I need some fine adjustments on cable after I'm on the bike, I can just use the barrel adjuster.

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