Easy way to change a tire roadside with a SA IGH?
#1
Sausage King
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 150
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Langster, Kilo WT, 1986 Dahon Classic Folder, 1986 Panasonic Mountain Cat
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Easy way to change a tire roadside with a SA IGH?
So I picked up a bike for commuting this winter. It has a
Sturmey-Archer 5 speed rear hub. When I bought it the thought didn't
cross my mind that this hub would make it difficult to change the tire
on the side of the road at 5am in 30 degree temps.
I'll probably use something puncture resistant for tires and maybe a sealant.
Basically though to get the tire off means completely disconnecting the cable,
which means my shifts will be out of adjustment. Then the possibility of losing a small part on the side of the road, plus an extra tool I'll have to carry to remove the cable.
It looks like I could maybe get enough slack in the cable to get the cable housing out of the cable stop on the frame and then be able to change the tire with the cable still connected to the hub. Then put the wheel back in the dropouts in the same place it was before the flat...IDK
Anyone have any experience with this?
Sturmey-Archer 5 speed rear hub. When I bought it the thought didn't
cross my mind that this hub would make it difficult to change the tire
on the side of the road at 5am in 30 degree temps.
I'll probably use something puncture resistant for tires and maybe a sealant.
Basically though to get the tire off means completely disconnecting the cable,
which means my shifts will be out of adjustment. Then the possibility of losing a small part on the side of the road, plus an extra tool I'll have to carry to remove the cable.
It looks like I could maybe get enough slack in the cable to get the cable housing out of the cable stop on the frame and then be able to change the tire with the cable still connected to the hub. Then put the wheel back in the dropouts in the same place it was before the flat...IDK
Anyone have any experience with this?
#2
Senior member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 8,102
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 935 Post(s)
Liked 641 Times
in
363 Posts
I suppose if you can get the cable housing out of the stop, it could be theoretically possible to get enough slack in the cable to remove the indicator guide in order to loosen the axle lock nut, and thereby remove the wheel. I've never tried it, but then again, my SA 5 speeds have fulcrum levers, not frame mounted cable stops, so releasing the cable is not an option.
Pain in the butt at 5 am and below freezing for sure which makes a good case for the best flat resistant tires you can find.
Cable connection is the one place where Sram gearhubs shine.
Pain in the butt at 5 am and below freezing for sure which makes a good case for the best flat resistant tires you can find.
Cable connection is the one place where Sram gearhubs shine.
#3
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,911
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3556 Post(s)
Liked 3,332 Times
in
1,899 Posts
There's a locknut on the indicator chain. When you have it set against a properly adjusted barrel on the cable, you can disconnect the barrel and the position of the locknut will retain your adjustment.
When you reinstall the wheel after repair, simply tighten the barrel until it seats against the locknut and the adjustment will be the same as it was before you removed the wheel.
When you reinstall the wheel after repair, simply tighten the barrel until it seats against the locknut and the adjustment will be the same as it was before you removed the wheel.
#4
Senior member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 8,102
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 935 Post(s)
Liked 641 Times
in
363 Posts
There's a locknut on the indicator chain. When you have it set against a properly adjusted barrel on the cable, you can disconnect the barrel and the position of the locknut will retain your adjustment.
When you reinstall the wheel after repair, simply tighten the barrel until it seats against the locknut and the adjustment will be the same as it was before you removed the wheel.
When you reinstall the wheel after repair, simply tighten the barrel until it seats against the locknut and the adjustment will be the same as it was before you removed the wheel.
I always find I need to do some dialing whenever I disconnect the cable.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 169
Bikes: Mobiky, PBW, Jim Redcay, old Chicago Schwinns
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
That's always my first preference, but it's not always possible or practical. There will be times when the tube has to be replaced, or the puncture can be much easier to find with the wheel off. I remember reading somewhere about a way to carry a spare tube in such a way that it can be installed without removing the wheel, but can't remember where it was and never tried it myself. Adjusting the shift cable never seemed like a big deal to me, just takes a few seconds, at least with the hubs I have used. I would not count on the adjustment staying the same when the wheel has been removed and reinstalled.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: S. E. Michigan
Posts: 517
Bikes: Mongoose Switchback
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Only ride with a Titanium BF member. The manservant in the support truck can do it for you.
But if you are still unsure, check out https://www.bikewebsite.com/bicycle-wheel-removal.htm
But if you are still unsure, check out https://www.bikewebsite.com/bicycle-wheel-removal.htm
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 169
Bikes: Mobiky, PBW, Jim Redcay, old Chicago Schwinns
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This what you were looking for? I've never tried it either, but it looks- interesting.
#13
Sausage King
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 150
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Langster, Kilo WT, 1986 Dahon Classic Folder, 1986 Panasonic Mountain Cat
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for all the responses. My bike has track ends but I guess I can get the wheel back on "close enough" just by chain tension. It'd be nice of there was some kind of quick disconnect for the cable close to the hub. That would solve my problem with the cable adjustment. Maybe I can engineer something.
In the meantime ill get some tires and hope for the best! Unfortunately my last two flats were caused by the presta stem ripping away from the tube for no apparent reason.
In the meantime ill get some tires and hope for the best! Unfortunately my last two flats were caused by the presta stem ripping away from the tube for no apparent reason.
#14
incazzare.
It literally only takes about 5 seconds to get the linkage re-connected and the shifting right. It's really not a big deal. You will do fine!
__________________
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
#15
12mph+ commuter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Oak Park, IL
Posts: 863
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is that a Kilo WT5? I just bought one this summer. I haven't had a flat yet (definitely swap out those cheapo tires for something nice), but I think John's method would work find. If I need some fine adjustments on cable after I'm on the bike, I can just use the barrel adjuster.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ronfinch
Bicycle Mechanics
8
06-13-18 10:59 AM