Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Creaking crank...

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Creaking crank...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-15-11, 09:51 AM
  #1  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Creaking crank...

I finally seemed to have cured a creaking left crank on my Specialized Globe Pro. After numerous bouts of torquing down, greasing the splines, removing said grease, swearing, praying etc. I removed and cleaned the crank, put it in the oven on 50 degrees centigrade for about half an hour, raised the temp to just under 100 then ran it out to the bike and using a wooden drift, banged it onto the axle and tightened it before it cooled. I've taken it out (warm day) and so far, no creaking... Does anybody else have any similar last ditch methods?
Flying Lizard is offline  
Old 10-15-11, 10:41 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
joejack951's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 12,100

Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)

Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1242 Post(s)
Liked 94 Times in 65 Posts
Um, I'm not sure what your heating of the arm was attempting to cure but if properly re-torquing the crank arm (you did use a torque wrench and grease the bolt, right?) didn't fix the creak, the next thing to look at is the bottom bracket. Chances are your creak will return so you'll get a chance to look there anyway.

Heating aluminum parts to help with press fitting is common with straight bores to avoid gouging the aluminum. With the tapered press fit of your bottom bracket, the heating is unecessary. I doubt you did any harm though as 100 C isn't very hot at all. 175 C would yield some significant expansion of the aluminum though.
joejack951 is offline  
Old 10-15-11, 11:03 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: boston, ma
Posts: 2,896
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
if the taper is wallowed or rounded out then you are buying time. can also buy more time with retaining compound
reptilezs is offline  
Old 10-16-11, 03:25 AM
  #4  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Creaking Crank

Originally Posted by joejack951
Um, I'm not sure what your heating of the arm was attempting to cure but if properly re-torquing the crank arm (you did use a torque wrench and grease the bolt, right?) didn't fix the creak, the next thing to look at is the bottom bracket. Chances are your creak will return so you'll get a chance to look there anyway.

Heating aluminum parts to help with press fitting is common with straight bores to avoid gouging the aluminum. With the tapered press fit of your bottom bracket, the heating is unecessary. I doubt you did any harm though as 100 C isn't very hot at all. 175 C would yield some significant expansion of the aluminum though.
Hi there, thanks for the post. I think my fix has simply allowed the axle to move a few thou' into the crank arm. I was quite surprised at poor quality of finish on the inside of the crank given the function of the part and of the assymetric nature of the wear, although I guess the power is only coming on for half the rotation. I think the lesson I have learned from this is not to assume that an internet retailer has correctly tourqued down components...(the bike has only done about 1500 miles).
Flying Lizard is offline  
Old 10-16-11, 03:33 AM
  #5  
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by reptilezs
if the taper is wallowed or rounded out then you are buying time. can also buy more time with retaining compound
Hi there, thanks for the reply, by retaining compound do you mean Loctite nutloc? I hadn't thought of that, I've never used it on a taper, how is it for removing? I guess it sholdn't be any worse than when it is on a thread. I have kind of resigned myself to replacing the offending article at some point but it would be nice to buy a bit of time, although having said that, at the moment it seems to be ok (fingers crossed).
Flying Lizard is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gsa103
Bicycle Mechanics
3
08-18-19 02:10 PM
AlexTheRabbit
Bicycle Mechanics
41
03-28-13 05:29 PM
david58
Bicycle Mechanics
8
11-18-12 06:04 AM
slowandsteady
Bicycle Mechanics
24
11-20-10 07:53 PM
TMike
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
6
11-11-10 10:50 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.