hand built rear wheel, dt swiss rim question
10-16-11, 05:28 PM
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hand built rear wheel, dt swiss rim question
I'm getting a rear wheel built with a power tap and I can't decide on what rim to go with. My options are dt swiss 415 or dt swiss 465. I could go with either a 28 or 32 hole configuration on the 465 or 28 hole on the 415. This rear wheel would be my EVERYTHING WHEEL, day in and day out training wheel but also my race wheel. I would love to save some weight on these wheels(heavy already due to the pt) and go with the 415s but I am concerned about the rims strength and durability. I'm currently riding handbuilt hed Belgiums 24f/28r 2 cross and have no issues with deflection or durability. Also I weigh 155-165lbs (getting nice a fat in the off season). I know the 465s are a rock solid rim but I would like a little more info on the 415s.
10-16-11, 07:26 PM
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The only difference seems to be single versus double eyelets. At your weight, I wouldn't be concerned at all with a 28 spoke, single eyelet rim for your do-it-all wheel. I'm in the same ballpark and commute on a 32 hole, single eyelet IRD Cadence VSR rim'd rear wheel. The Cadence rim is a 390 gm rim which is about as light as it gets for a single eyelet rim. I do have the benefit of the offset spoke bed evening out tension but I also carry an extra 5-15 lbs. over my rear wheel on my rack every day. I would recommend using a heavier spoke gauge on the drive side and lighter on the non-drive side to avoid overly slack non-drive side spokes during heavy use. I went with DT Competition drive side and DT Revolution non-drive side but you could go a little heavier with Champion drive, Comp non-drive.
10-16-11, 07:27 PM
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I ran DT RR 1.1 rims (predecessor to the 415) on my primary bike for 7 years before finding some small cracks near the spoke holes on the rear wheel. The 415 is good light weight double wall single eyelet rim. The eyelets are in the outer wall and the nipples tighten against the eyelets. The eyelets help distribute stresses over a larger part of the rim. Some of the roads I ride are really rough so I decided to replace the rear rim with a 465 with double walls and double eyelets. In this rim each eyelet is fixed to the inner and outer walls so that the stresses are shared by both walls. It should be a much stronger structure. The numbers are the actual weight of the rims in grams and after rebuilding the wheel with the 465 it did weigh 50 grams more.
My rear wheel has 32 spokes 3X, and the front has 28 spokes 3X (should have been 2X). The front wheel is now 8 years old and I have not found any cracks. I recommend the 465 for your rear wheel. You could keep the weight down with Competition 2.0 - 1.8 - 2.0 spokes on the drive side and Revolution 2.0 - 1.5 - 2.0 on the non drive side with aluminum alloy nipples.
edit: Had not seen joejack951's post above before writing mine.
My rear wheel has 32 spokes 3X, and the front has 28 spokes 3X (should have been 2X). The front wheel is now 8 years old and I have not found any cracks. I recommend the 465 for your rear wheel. You could keep the weight down with Competition 2.0 - 1.8 - 2.0 spokes on the drive side and Revolution 2.0 - 1.5 - 2.0 on the non drive side with aluminum alloy nipples.
edit: Had not seen joejack951's post above before writing mine.
10-17-11, 07:47 AM
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This. It's a free lunch of extra strength for no weight penalty.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
10-17-11, 08:48 AM
#6
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I wouldn't call it a free lunch as it does severely limit your rim choices. It is nice seeing 80-85% of max tension on the non-drive side spokes though. I actually run an offset rim on the front too to help with my front disc hub. It wouldn't be too bad without it but with it I see only ~5-10% tension differential.
