If you've built X3 and X4, X1 is really no different, except you count less holes to begin lacing if you want to line up the hub label with the valve hole.
Quick version of gluing up tubulars.
1. Stretch the new tire on a rim for at least several days. Install and pump it up to full pressure. I like several weeks myself. You can even use a clincher rim in a pinch. Deflate, remove, proceed to next step
2. Apply a thin but complete side-to-side layer of glue to the rim, and the same to the basetape of the tire. Depending on the rim width you probably can leave a small (like 2-3mm) uncoated strip on each side of the basetape. Allow to dry about an hour or more.
3. Apply a thin coat to the rim only. As soon as you are done applying, immediately mount the tire valve first. Pull the rest of the tire up around and over the rim. Depending on the tire, you may need to stand on the rim (pointed upwards) and pull the tire up (no shoes and socks makes this easier for me anyway.)
4. Adjust the tire by looking at the exposed basetape all around the rim. You may need to pull back and forth in some areas.
5. Inflate to about 20-30 pounds. Hold the wheel up and spin it looking for tire trueness. You can also do this mounted in the bike or in a truing stand. Readjust the tire as neccessary.
6. Inflate to full pressure. Allow to dry overnight.
7. After all is complete you really should look to make sure there are no gluing voids. You can do this by deflating and pushing the tire up with your thumbs as you make your way around the rim. Don't push so hard that you are "ungluing" the tire, but do apply some pressure. If it comes away too easily, that's a void. Peel it up and reapply the glue locally, unless it's a really big void.
You can apply the glue with flux or other brushes. I personally find I make the least amount of mess by sticking my index finger down into the end of a baggie and using that to spread the glue.
Last edited by Ex Pres; 10-17-11 at 10:33 AM.