Slipping rear axle
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Slipping rear axle
I have a shimano nexus 3 speed hub and it keep slipping. No matter how much I tighten the bolt, it will slip at some point. It only happens when I stand up and put a lot of force on the pedals.
Is there something I can do to stop the axle from slipping? I would love to be able to climb hills on 2nd while standing and not having to put it in 1st and slowboat it up.
Is there something I can do to stop the axle from slipping? I would love to be able to climb hills on 2nd while standing and not having to put it in 1st and slowboat it up.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Posts: 12,948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
What type of metal at the frame, steel or alu? Are the dropouts heavily indented?
What kind of nut? The current Shimano nut is very good.You can get much better purchase with a full sized track nut with built-in washer.
How do you tighten the nut, with a small multi-tool, adjustable wrench? I prefer a full sized ring wrench.
What kind of nut? The current Shimano nut is very good.You can get much better purchase with a full sized track nut with built-in washer.
How do you tighten the nut, with a small multi-tool, adjustable wrench? I prefer a full sized ring wrench.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What type of metal at the frame, steel or alu? Are the dropouts heavily indented?
What kind of nut? The current Shimano nut is very good.You can get much better purchase with a full sized track nut with built-in washer.
How do you tighten the nut, with a small multi-tool, adjustable wrench? I prefer a full sized ring wrench.
What kind of nut? The current Shimano nut is very good.You can get much better purchase with a full sized track nut with built-in washer.
How do you tighten the nut, with a small multi-tool, adjustable wrench? I prefer a full sized ring wrench.
As for the nut, it's the same one that shipped with the bike and is the standard one that ships with the inter-3.
#4
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,842
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 919 Times
in
606 Posts
What type of washer is between the frame & nut ? You could try a serrated washer for better grip.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#5
Palmer
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 8,556
Bikes: Mike Melton custom, 1982 Stumpjumper, Alex Moulton AM, 2010 Dawes Briercliffe, 2017 Dahon Curl i8, 2021 Motobecane Turino 1x12
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1640 Post(s)
Liked 1,764 Times
in
1,027 Posts
Nexus three-speed? Sounds like your Y33Z20200 non-turn washer is either MIA or doesn't interface tightly with the dropout.
With an IGH like this, the gears will multiply the reverse torque on the axle and if the anti-rotation washer doesn't do it's job, you'll never be able to hold the axle merely by tightening the nuts.
With an IGH like this, the gears will multiply the reverse torque on the axle and if the anti-rotation washer doesn't do it's job, you'll never be able to hold the axle merely by tightening the nuts.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Nexus three-speed? Sounds like your Y33Z20200 non-turn washer is either MIA or doesn't interface tightly with the dropout.
With an IGH like this, the gears will multiply the reverse torque on the axle and if the anti-rotation washer doesn't do it's job, you'll never be able to hold the axle merely by tightening the nuts.
With an IGH like this, the gears will multiply the reverse torque on the axle and if the anti-rotation washer doesn't do it's job, you'll never be able to hold the axle merely by tightening the nuts.
Last edited by harshbarj; 10-17-11 at 03:58 PM.
#7
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,167
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1552 Post(s)
Liked 1,268 Times
in
843 Posts
Sometimes oiling the threads and between nut and washer gives improved tightening.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sunnyvale, California
Posts: 1,180
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-1, 600, T700, MB-6 w/ Dirt Drops, MB-Zip, Bianchi Limited, Nashbar Hounder
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It'd be interesting to get a picture of the dropouts and see what things might affect the slippage. A few things I look for:
a) is the axle/nut diameter appropriate for the dropout (i.e. does it bite enough metal?)
b) Do both the inside lock-nut and the outside locknut that sandwiches the dropout have sufficient serrations to grip?
c) is there some hub/axle geometry interference that prevents the outer locknut from really cinching down on the inner locknut to make the ultimately tight sandwich?
d) could some other form of chain tensioner/tug help prevent slippage?
Last resort of course is a chain tug of some sort, which only works with horizontal, back facing dropouts. But I'm wondering if any of the first 3 things listed might be the issue.
a) is the axle/nut diameter appropriate for the dropout (i.e. does it bite enough metal?)
b) Do both the inside lock-nut and the outside locknut that sandwiches the dropout have sufficient serrations to grip?
c) is there some hub/axle geometry interference that prevents the outer locknut from really cinching down on the inner locknut to make the ultimately tight sandwich?
d) could some other form of chain tensioner/tug help prevent slippage?
Last resort of course is a chain tug of some sort, which only works with horizontal, back facing dropouts. But I'm wondering if any of the first 3 things listed might be the issue.