What crankset measurements do I need to look for?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: London, UK
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What crankset measurements do I need to look for?
I'm fixing up an old Marin Larkspur. I need a single chainring because I'm getting rid of the front gears, so I only have 7 gears.
My rear cassette = Shimano HG30 7 Speed
And my chain = SRAM PC-890
My rear cassette = Shimano HG30 7 Speed
And my chain = SRAM PC-890
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 453 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times
in
87 Posts
Why are you getting rid of the chain rings? guessing if you stayed in the middle all of the time, which is probably a 32T, thats what you want to get, you will probably also want to get a chain guide if you are staying with a cassette as well.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Are you replacing the entire crankset, just removing existing chainrings or replacing the current chainrings with a single one of a different tooth count?
If you are just replacing the current chainring(s) you need to match the bolt circle diameter (BCD) and the number of bolts (3, 4 or 5 with 4 and 5 the most common). An older "flat" type chainring without shifting enhancements will work best in a single ring set-up.
If you are replacing the entire crank set you will need a compatible bottom bracket to match it.
If you are just replacing the current chainring(s) you need to match the bolt circle diameter (BCD) and the number of bolts (3, 4 or 5 with 4 and 5 the most common). An older "flat" type chainring without shifting enhancements will work best in a single ring set-up.
If you are replacing the entire crank set you will need a compatible bottom bracket to match it.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: London, UK
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks guys.
The rings are knackered. I have a new chain and rear cassette too so really need new rings as well right? I could conceivably reuse the cranks but I can't see how to separate em from the rings. See photos.
I'd like to have one ring to simplify things. It's just for riding around London and I don't need 21 gears. I'm pretty sure it's a 1999 Larkspur and this page says the existing crankset is a Shimano Nexave, 28/38/48. Would I be better with 32 teeth for a single ring?
What does the chain guide do, keep the chain on the ring? Is that because a new crankset and single ring would likely be off centre in comparison to the existing middle ring? What about a crankset with bash guards? I'd like to keep it simple.
Righto.
The bottom bracket is a Shimano UN54 68/122.5 mm. Box says "For bracket type front derailleur (E)". What does that mean? I didn't fully appreciate the effect the bottom bracket type would have on what kind of crankset I could use. I just replaced it with the same as the existing one.
I'd like to have one ring to simplify things. It's just for riding around London and I don't need 21 gears. I'm pretty sure it's a 1999 Larkspur and this page says the existing crankset is a Shimano Nexave, 28/38/48. Would I be better with 32 teeth for a single ring?
Last edited by Christiaan; 10-17-11 at 01:14 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sunnyvale, California
Posts: 1,180
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-1, 600, T700, MB-6 w/ Dirt Drops, MB-Zip, Bianchi Limited, Nashbar Hounder
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ahh... a picture is worth a 1000 words. Yes, riveted and press fit crankset.
Unfortunately, each model of crankset may have a slightly different depth to which it slides onto the BB spindle. And in the old days, there were manuals that told us roughly which spindles went with which crank sets for 2 chainrings and 3 chainrings. You may still find such tables on the web and at Sheldon Brown's site. But for new cranks, the question is a bit tougher if it doesn't come with a manual. The better ones have recommended spindle references based on BB width. So you need to get the crank and then get the BB and spindle. A good LBS would know and a good online retailer might be able to answer such questions. In the old days, with 4sided tapered cranks, I had a bunch of different sizes with the same 68mm spacing and I typically used a process of trial and error on a crankset and spindle until I had a good chainline. Typically, it take 3 attempts and I'd nail it on the 3rd spindle.
Unfortunately, each model of crankset may have a slightly different depth to which it slides onto the BB spindle. And in the old days, there were manuals that told us roughly which spindles went with which crank sets for 2 chainrings and 3 chainrings. You may still find such tables on the web and at Sheldon Brown's site. But for new cranks, the question is a bit tougher if it doesn't come with a manual. The better ones have recommended spindle references based on BB width. So you need to get the crank and then get the BB and spindle. A good LBS would know and a good online retailer might be able to answer such questions. In the old days, with 4sided tapered cranks, I had a bunch of different sizes with the same 68mm spacing and I typically used a process of trial and error on a crankset and spindle until I had a good chainline. Typically, it take 3 attempts and I'd nail it on the 3rd spindle.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
The picture does explain a lot. That is a very low-line crank and the chainrings are riveted in place and cannot be either removed or replaced so you are in for a complete new crank and, most likely, a compatible bottom bracket.
The "For bracket type front derailleur (E)" means the bottom bracket is intended for use with a front derailleur mounted on a bracket that is clamped between the drive-side bottom bracket cup and the frame's bottom bracket shell. This is the configuration used on some MTBs. Most bikes fasten the front derailleur with a clamp or a tab on the frame's seat tube.
The "For bracket type front derailleur (E)" means the bottom bracket is intended for use with a front derailleur mounted on a bracket that is clamped between the drive-side bottom bracket cup and the frame's bottom bracket shell. This is the configuration used on some MTBs. Most bikes fasten the front derailleur with a clamp or a tab on the frame's seat tube.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: London, UK
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I see, thanks. If I had to get a new BB it would be a costly mistake on this little project (I had it professionally fitted too). Would I be asking for trouble if I re-used this crankset (given that I have a new chain and cassette)?
And if I were to try and find a crankset compatible with the BB I've used, what should I be looking out for/asking for in terms of specification/measurements?
And if I were to try and find a crankset compatible with the BB I've used, what should I be looking out for/asking for in terms of specification/measurements?
Last edited by Christiaan; 10-18-11 at 12:56 AM.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
I see, thanks. If I had to get a new BB it would be a costly mistake on this little project (I had it professionally fitted too). Would I be asking for trouble if I re-used this crankset (given that I have a new chain and cassette)?
And if I were to try and find a crankset compatible with the BB I've used, what should I be looking out for/asking for in terms of specification/measurements?
And if I were to try and find a crankset compatible with the BB I've used, what should I be looking out for/asking for in terms of specification/measurements?
A new crank using your current bottom bracket would be a JIS square taper type and would have to be compatible with the length of your current spindle. That is, it couldn't sit too far from or too close to the frame.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: London, UK
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Do you think these might do the trick?
Brev.M Fixie Crankarm
https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...nkarm-ec026213
It says "Square taper / JIS bottom bracket interface 103mm recommended width". Does that mean it might sit too far out from the frame on a 122.5 mm spindle?
And a 42T one of these (will 42 be too many I wonder?):
https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...-ring-ec026212
The chainline of my existing crankset looks to be 47.5 mm (pushed on by hand without tightening bolt).
P.S. on second thoughts will these be compatible with my SRAM PC-890 8-speed chain? How can I tell?
Brev.M Fixie Crankarm
https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...nkarm-ec026213
It says "Square taper / JIS bottom bracket interface 103mm recommended width". Does that mean it might sit too far out from the frame on a 122.5 mm spindle?
And a 42T one of these (will 42 be too many I wonder?):
https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...-ring-ec026212
The chainline of my existing crankset looks to be 47.5 mm (pushed on by hand without tightening bolt).
P.S. on second thoughts will these be compatible with my SRAM PC-890 8-speed chain? How can I tell?
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 704
Bikes: '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '98 Fuji Touring w/ Shimano Nexus premium, '06 Jamis Nova 853 cross frame set up as commuter, '03 Fuji Roubaix Pro 853 back up training bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Do you think these might do the trick?
Brev.M Fixie Crankarm
https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...nkarm-ec026213
It says "Square taper / JIS bottom bracket interface 103mm recommended width". Does that mean it might sit too far out from the frame on a 122.5 mm spindle?
And a 42T one of these (will 42 be too many I wonder?):
https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...-ring-ec026212
The chainline of my existing crankset looks to be 47.5 mm (pushed on by hand without tightening bolt).
P.S. on second thoughts will these be compatible with my SRAM PC-890 8-speed chain? How can I tell?
Brev.M Fixie Crankarm
https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...nkarm-ec026213
It says "Square taper / JIS bottom bracket interface 103mm recommended width". Does that mean it might sit too far out from the frame on a 122.5 mm spindle?
And a 42T one of these (will 42 be too many I wonder?):
https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...-ring-ec026212
The chainline of my existing crankset looks to be 47.5 mm (pushed on by hand without tightening bolt).
P.S. on second thoughts will these be compatible with my SRAM PC-890 8-speed chain? How can I tell?
You could order the crank, install it on your existing bottom bracket, and see how far off your chain line is, then order a new bottom bracket with the appropriate spindle length to achieve a chain line that puts your front ring and 4th cog in a straight line.
Just be aware that these cranks only appear to be available in a 165mm length.
And find out if the ring you're looking at is 1/8" width. This would cause problems if you used a narrower 7-speed chain.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: London, UK
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 704
Bikes: '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '98 Fuji Touring w/ Shimano Nexus premium, '06 Jamis Nova 853 cross frame set up as commuter, '03 Fuji Roubaix Pro 853 back up training bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
j814wong
Bicycle Mechanics
9
10-30-13 03:57 PM
tjc4golf
Bicycle Mechanics
4
04-18-10 12:36 PM