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  1. #1
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    Choosing a freewheel to go with my new hub

    I searched, but found nothing to answer my question anywhere, perhaps because it is a non-issue:

    I picked up a cheap 700c wheel with 135mm hub spacing for my road bike. I have the understanding that 135mm was a mountain bike spec, and 130mm is standard for road bikes. I am not worried about using the wheel in the frame. My question is, can I just buy any Shimano Hyperglide 7-speed freewheel, or do I need to get one with a particular overall width?

    It's a late-80's (I believe, having trouble finding catalogs) Giant Kronos with all Shimano Exage Action components and Biopace chainrings. The decals look earlier than the 90s Kronoses which I can find.

  2. #2
    Mystery Meat gitarzan's Avatar
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    Freewheel at 135mm? Or cassette?
    Quote Originally Posted by Jseis View Post
    Is a ukulele player in a mandolin town and banned from all bars by the chief of police unless he leaves his strings and gravy at the front door.

  3. #3
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    There are plenty of freewheel hubs at 135mm. The distance from the DS bearings to DS locknut doesn't change, so it's not any weaker.

    If it truly takes a freewheel and the rear shifter is indexed at 7-speed (or friction), then any 7-speed freewheel will work as long as the largest cog doesn't exceed the "max cog" capacity of the rear derailleur (by too much). What was the tooth-count of the largest cog of the old freewheel?

    Shimano makes plenty of 7-speed freewheels still, go wit one of those.

    Get a new 7/8-speed chain while you're at it.
    Quote Originally Posted by slopvehicle View Post
    Not wearing a helmet makes me more aware of my surroundings. I find myself anticipating the hardness of concrete 50 or 100 feet in front of me, it's almost a zen-like connection between my face and the pavement.

  4. #4
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    It is for a freewheel, it is threaded. The hub space was listed at 147mm which I knew wasn't right, so I took a chance. I would expect a 135mm mountain wheel with freewheel to be 26", but it Is 700c. Seems odd, right?

  5. #5
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    Thanks, Jive Turkey. It came without a rear wheel and the wrong front wheel, so no idea on the original cogs, except seeing it is not a real race bike, probably 28 teeth or so. And it came with what looks to be a new chain, so I will have to check its compatibility. Thanks for your helpful info!

  6. #6
    Low car diet JiveTurkey's Avatar
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    Modern road RDs are rated up to 27/28T, MTB RDs up to 34/36T. I would guess since it's an older road bike that 28T would be about the max you could get in there (26T might even be the max the RD is rated for), though you could possibly squeeze a 30T in there.
    Quote Originally Posted by slopvehicle View Post
    Not wearing a helmet makes me more aware of my surroundings. I find myself anticipating the hardness of concrete 50 or 100 feet in front of me, it's almost a zen-like connection between my face and the pavement.

  7. #7
    Nigel nfmisso's Avatar
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    I recommend this one:
    http://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Sunrac...9306900&sr=1-2
    I have had some bad experiences with the cog to cog spacing of Shimano freewheels recently, and found this one to be very good, working well with both Shimano and SRAM 7 speed indexed shifters.

    The jumps between gears is not too big, 28T is plenty for most climbs, and 13T is the smallest practical for a freewheel.

    The next step up is IRD http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/freewheels.html#7

    I'd like to have IRD 13 - 14 - 15 - 17 - 19 - 21 - 24 FW772 for my freewheels for my freewheel equipped bikes. Around here 24 is plenty for the biggest cog.
    Nigel

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