Headset too tight?
Headset too tight?
Last edited by Decatur_Tide; 11-22-11 at 11:29 AM.
Last edited by Dan The Man; 11-22-11 at 11:42 AM.
The more you lean back, the better the front wheel will track. For really low speed no hands I need to have like 95% of my weight over the rear wheel.
If the fork is turning too easily then it is almost definitely not a tight headset. It is more likely a bent fork or frame, or perhaps a wheel not centred in the dropouts. Frame and fork misalignment will cause a bike to pull to one side.
Does the bike generally go to one side or does it flop back and forth without reason?
Last edited by Decatur_Tide; 11-22-11 at 12:19 PM. Reason: Added comments
Try it at higher speed. Many bikes are too sensitive to ride no-hands at low speed but stabilize nicely at higher speeds. Bikes with a lot of trail are particularly prone to low speed instability if ridden no-hands.
This is something I've never been able to manage either. I have a fairly heavy front rack on there and have always assumed that I didn't get that balanced quite right (or that I did something else not quite even when I converted from my old mtb from flat to drop bars, but it doesn't really affect my riding (except when I really need to stretch), so I haven't tried to mess with it.
Punctuation is important. It's the difference between "I helped my uncle, Jack, off a horse" and "I helped my uncle Jack off a horse"
If your headset seems either loose (you hear a clunking sound
and feel a looseness from the front end when riding over
rough roads or trails) or tight (the steering binds and sounds
crunchy, and it's difficult to ride no-handed), you can usually
remedy the problem with a simple adjustment."
This is from Bicycling Illustrated Bicycle Maintenance
But, I have no binding or crunchy sounds.
Can you ride other bikes with no hands?
If yes, then probably fork or frame or dropouts as previously mentioned.
If no, go a little faster and lean back further (both of which are counter-intuitive if you are not used to riding with no hands).
steering alignment may not be spot on,
whole frame may be twisted .
but that cannot be cured on a keyboard.
just hold on.
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-22-11 at 05:38 PM.
Agree with jeff... frame geometry has a lot to do with that. Some bikes are really poor designed. If the OP can ride no hands in anything else then is the bike.
I have a similar problem with the only hybrid bike i have, havent been able to ride no hand confidently in that one ever. I blame the headset that is garbage and clearly the headtube needs to be chased again because is horrible bad finished. Geometry is ok but not confident in that one at all.
I can't ride my new MTB without hands either. I blame the geometry, because I could definitely ride my old ten-speed long distances without hands.
The items that effect the self centering stability the most are:
1) How much forward the front wheel axle is ahead of an imaginary line down through the steering tube axis.
2) Mass of front wheel.
3) How fast are you going. For most road bikes you want to be going faster than 12-13mph before going hands free.
Depends on the rake and trail as well as speed. My current MTB (Moots Rigormootis, fwiw) is very quick steering, can't be left alone for a second. My previous one (GT Xizang) was built for an old short travel fork but had a more recent longer fork which I think may have slackened the head angle. Whatever the reason, it was more stable.
Here's the thing - although all of my bikes will do trackstands - *not one* of them will do wheelies. This may be completely caused by the rider.