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  1. #1
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    Anti-Seize Compound

    I've been using grease and NoAlox, respectively, for steel-steel and steel-aluminum/alloy fit-ups to prevent seizing/galling, but I recently bought a bottle of Loctite C5-A to try out for this purpose. It's a greasy suspension of colloidal copper and is advertized as good for all sorts of metal interfaces (steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass, copper, titanium, etc.). Anyone else tried this stuff? Reading the spec sheet, it seems like the ultimate stuff...even good for temps over 1000 degrees....

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    i use it on bbs mostly or if i know the rider rides a lot. grease most of the time though, just goop it on thick

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    Copper based anti-seize products are a staple of the category. I've been using neverseez brand for years, though it's probably overkill for most bike applications.
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  4. #4
    You gonna eat that? Doohickie's Avatar
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    Molybdenum Grease for the win.



    I bought a tub like this ten years ago for about $3. Still over half full.
    I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.



    Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."

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    I have used Neverseez for decades for high-temperature work on engines, like spark plug threads and manifold bolts. For lower-temperature uses like bikes I recommend Tef-Gel http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor# Made for the marine industry, it keeps out water which leads to electrolytic corrosion. I use it on pedal threads, quill stem parts and the like; it should help keep aluminum nipples from freezing. NoAlOx for aluminum/aluminum joints on antennas and such where electrical conductivity needs to be maintained. Each has its intended use; the right tool for each job is my motto and a tube of each is pretty much a lifetime supply.

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    I use anti-seize on bottom brackets and pedal threads. Mostly everything else gets a generous helping of Phil grease.

  7. #7
    WNG
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    The copper-based anti-seize is for high temp applications. Yes, it's overkill. The basic aluminum-based anti-seize is fine. I use anti-seize for threaded interfaces, a quality grease for other contact surfaces.
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    Copper based anti-seize products are a staple of the category. I've been using neverseez brand for years, though it's probably overkill for most bike applications.
    +1. Never-seez and other products like it come in two major types, copper-based (brown) and nickle-based (gray). Both are intended for high-temperature protection of metalic interfaces and are indeed overkill for almost any bike application. That said, they are effective, they are relatively inexpensive and readily available at any auto parts store and a small can or tube lasts for decades. The downside of ant-sieze compounds in general is they are messy and will stain anything they come in contact with so use them carefully and don't work while wearing any clothing you care about.

    I have a 1-pound can of Ni-based Never-seez that's 30 years old and still about 20% full. It has been used on sparkplug threads and bike bottom brackets and always works.

  9. #9
    Can'tre Member 3alarmer's Avatar
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    The wheels on the bus go round and round............

    http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ght=anti+seize



    Edit: personally, I love anti seize compounds in all their
    variety because they make me feel special.............
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  10. #10
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    If it weren't for repeat business there would be very little to see here.

  11. #11
    Knotty Guy Anthropy's Avatar
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    I use the C5-A quite a bit and yes, it is high temp. It is recommended for the threads on the gas cyclinder of M14 rifles.

    But it works great on everything threaded as well.

    Tom

  12. #12
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Though not that Specific one, I dip the threads of each spoke
    as I lace up a wheel, with that type of anti-seize .

  13. #13
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    I use grease and teflon tape in the cups, never a single problem.

    With Italian BB just in case I put teflon tape in the cups and blue (removable) loctite in driver side threads, then put the cup... wait next morning and ready to go.

    Both methods worked fine for me for centuries, even never gotten a single issue with UT cups.

  14. #14
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    I like to throw a little salt water in there so in 5 years I can read the thread - How do I get this seized assembly apart - on bike forums.

    My old bottle of grey is just about empty and picked up a bottle of brown.
    '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the replies! I actually got the C5-A to use as an alternative to NoAlox on a Ham antenna I took down and am putting back up (I figured the copper would make more conductive joints), but I'm going to use it for seatposts, quill stems, etc. and see how it works.

  16. #16
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    There are many types of antiseize,copper,zinc,aluminum,nickle,Ti...depending on what your trying to protect.Aluminum or copper based is more than fine for bicycle use.

    Zinc based antiseize is the best for threads ...Like for regular nuts and bolts at ambient temps.
    Last edited by Booger1; 12-02-11 at 11:40 AM.
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