Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Want to restore KHS pro mtb

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Want to restore KHS pro mtb

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-01-12, 06:45 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 19

Bikes: KHS Pro

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Want to restore KHS pro mtb

First off, I'm new to the website and have to tell you that I like the structure of the forums and the different catagories it has to offer people, however I hope you may be able to help me because I have been away from riding and repairing bikes for many years.

I did some work for a guy and he thought I did good job for him.(considering I worked for free) so he decided to give me an old bike of his that hasn't been riden in some time.

It is in an alright condition but most of the stickers are worn off so I'm not sure what model it is. My goal is to restore the bike to ridable condition. I went around looking at each part and wrote down as much info as I could so hopefully that will give you guys the details you need to help me. If requested I can take pictures of any part and upload them here.

So here is the info I have gathered.

On the side of the bike there is a sticker that says "KHS Pro" and on one side are the worn hard to read words "taina" and the other side "Mounta". I am not sure what it is meant to say so maybe that will help determine the model of the bike.

The crank is a Tourney GS
The gears are Suntour Mountech
The seat is a Specialize Body GBCM
Tioca Tires - 26 x 1.50
DIA Compe Front and Rear Brakes
CrMo Frame Set
Sealed Bearing Hub Spoke
Suntour Gear Thumb Changers on Handle bars
Shimano PD-MX15 Peddles
DIA Compe Brake pads
Takagi XT 46 IC Sprocket
KMC Chain

The only thing as far as I know that is broken is the front wheel. Where the axel pin goes threw the round thing that the spokes go into is broken in half on the left side. So I will try to replace it.

The gears are dirty aswell as the sprocket
the brake wire is rusty brown colored

What I would like to do is to find some nice tires for California "Dirty-Rocky-Roads"
All I plan to use the bike for is riding for exercise on a daily basis.

I would like to clean and oil everything possible and all around restore the bike to like new condition.
The paint is good and there aren't any chips
But I would like to buy new KHS stickers for whichever model we determine is was.(so I would need to find where to buy them)

Other details about the bike include it has the lugage rack above the back tire.

I request advice as to whats the best way to go about doing this in steps.
What I can take apart and clean safley
What specialty tools I may need aswell as oils and cleaners.

Thank you all for taking the time to read this and thank you even more for any help or advice you have to offer me. Take care and happy New Year!
Reedtech is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 07:04 PM
  #2  
Bianchi Goddess
 
Bianchigirll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 27,858

Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.

Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2930 Post(s)
Liked 2,923 Times in 1,491 Posts
Hello Welcome to the forums. my advice is first of clean the bike. with real dirty 'new to me bikes' I hit the carwash with a big bottle of simple green and an old bottle brush. clean the bike real good that way then take lots of pics and post them so we can see what you have going on.

if your complete novice at bike repair you may be better off having a professional give it a quick look to determine if it is worth spending money on to repair.
__________________
One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"

Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Bianchigirll is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 07:20 PM
  #3  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 19

Bikes: KHS Pro

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
..... my advice is first of clean the bike. with real dirty 'new to me bikes' I hit the carwash with a big bottle of simple green and an old bottle brush. clean the bike real good that way then take lots of pics and post them so we can see what you have going on.......
Thanks for the tip, I will work on doing that this week.
I have repaired bikes in the past but they were for BMX, so I have the basic knowledge of how to take apart and put back together BMX bikes. I will be carefull with this MTB because the way the rear wheel is assembled.
I will get it as clean as I can and take pictures of each part and the whole bike in perspective of each side.
Thanks again for the info!
Reedtech is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 07:50 PM
  #4  
Thrifty Bill
 
wrk101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,525

Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more

Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times in 628 Posts
First tool is google, seriously. There are endless discussions on most of the questions you have, and by searching (google works better than the search engine on the forum), you will be able to see hundreds if not thousands of opinions on every topic.

+1 In general, vintage mtbs, even high end ones, have very limited value in the marketplace. It is better to get one in extremely good condition to excellent condition as a starting point, and go from there. I have a top of the line, 1989, KHS built MTB myself. Mine is a Univega Alpina Pro (they hired KHS to build it). Black chrome triple butted frame, etc. I paid $40 for it (it needed service work which I do myself, but the frame, decals, and so on, were in excellent condition, and it was a good deal).

You are not going to need much in the way of "oil". You will need grease, plenty of it.
wrk101 is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 08:47 PM
  #5  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 19

Bikes: KHS Pro

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by wrk101
First tool is google, seriously. There are endless discussions on most of the questions you have, and by searching (google works better than the search engine on the forum), you will be able to see hundreds if not thousands of opinions on every topic.

+1 In general, vintage mtbs, even high end ones, have very limited value in the marketplace. It is better to get one in extremely good condition to excellent condition as a starting point, and go from there. I have a top of the line, 1989, KHS built MTB myself. Mine is a Univega Alpina Pro (they hired KHS to build it). Black chrome triple butted frame, etc. I paid $40 for it (it needed service work which I do myself, but the frame, decals, and so on, were in excellent condition, and it was a good deal).

You are not going to need much in the way of "oil". You will need grease, plenty of it.
Thanks for the advice and tips. I use google as much as I can in this case but the search results do not give up the information I need as far as anything even related to the part itself. So I hope if anything I will get answers about what type of model bike it is for a start, and if anything should need replacing or can be restored as is via just cleaning and greasing.
One thing I forgot to add is that the gears and brakes all work, when I flip the back upside down and spin the crank and shift the gears they all work aswell, and the brakes for the front and rear work. The back rim is in good condition other then the front which needs replacing but I may have a spare laying around somewhere.
Within the week I will clean the bike and post some pictures so hopefully you all will get a better idea of the bikes condition.
Again thank you all for the help and advice, take care.
Reedtech is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 09:11 PM
  #6  
Thrifty Bill
 
wrk101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,525

Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more

Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times in 628 Posts
"Montana Summit" was one of their better models in the late 1980s. My 1989 is Tig welded, which is somewhat unusual for that era (versus lugged).

Replacement wheels? Think used, there are many of them out there, cheap.
wrk101 is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 09:20 PM
  #7  
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 44,837

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12768 Post(s)
Liked 7,683 Times in 4,078 Posts
With Mountech it's gonna be 80s action assuming original parts. KHS had a few different Montanas. Comp, Team, Pro, etc.

Replacement wheel's the easiest fix for your front wheel situation. If it's the axle that's broken you can find one for about $10. About the same for QR skewer if that's the part that's broken.

You can find the year of your Suntour parts by looking at date codes stamped on them and checking here:

https://vintage-trek.com/component_dates.htm#suntour
LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 10:06 PM
  #8  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 19

Bikes: KHS Pro

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by wrk101
"Montana Summit" was one of their better models in the late 1980s. My 1989 is Tig welded, which is somewhat unusual for that era (versus lugged).

Replacement wheels? Think used, there are many of them out there, cheap.
Thanks for that intel, I will look into getting a used replacement wheel if I cannot find one laying around here, also part of the sticker that is worn out has stripes in the colors red(or orange) and yellow and blue, the color of the frame is a navy blue.

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
With Mountech it's gonna be 80s action assuming original parts. KHS had a few different Montanas. Comp, Team, Pro, etc.

Replacement wheel's the easiest fix for your front wheel situation. If it's the axle that's broken you can find one for about $10. About the same for QR skewer if that's the part that's broken.

You can find the year of your Suntour parts by looking at date codes stamped on them and checking here:
The inner rim of the wheel is whats broken, but the axle is fine. Thanks for the info I will do more research with those key terms, otherwise just have to wait until I post the pictures. Thank you all.

This bike looks similar to the one I have.
https://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retro...ro-751500.html

Last edited by Reedtech; 01-01-12 at 10:21 PM.
Reedtech is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 10:09 PM
  #9  
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 44,837

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12768 Post(s)
Liked 7,683 Times in 4,078 Posts
OH, so your hub is wasted. Bummer.
LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 10:18 PM
  #10  
spathfinder34089
 
spathfinder3408's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Washington State
Posts: 200

Bikes: fuji s12s, Schwiin Le Tour, Puegot mtn. bike, Hiawatha crusier

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Front wheel for that bike should be easy to find. Cleaning is a good first step. I use a light duty pressure washer for cleaning my bike. Probably possible with just a small brush and nossle on a hose and simple green soap. If you to really clean the gears use a old toothbrush and and rag with thinner or simple green. If cables and housing look shot then replace them. If they appear ok then get oil down inside housing for easy movement of cable. Get a 13 14 and 15mm thin bike wreches for regreasing front and back hubs with bike grease or lithium grease. I always regrease the bottom bracket unless its a newer sealed version. Your most likely isn't. You need a specific tool for removing the crank arms. Called a Crank removal tool. A pedal removal tool wood be nice to, but may be able to get by without it. When you get the crank arm off you will see a thin large nut on crank that needs to be removed. Pretty sure one side is reversed threads (this is where a good manual comes in handy) I did it with a cresent wrench , but prepare youself for banged knuckles. If you can spring for the right wrench for that large nut you will not get bloody. when you get the bearings out I would just replace them. They are cheap and now is a good time to replace and regrease. If the chain looks ok then stay with it unless it starts skipping , then replace. Good tires is a good investment. Good luck with your restoration
spathfinder3408 is offline  
Old 01-01-12, 10:32 PM
  #11  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 19

Bikes: KHS Pro

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by spathfinder3408
Front wheel for that bike should be easy to find. Cleaning is a good first step. I use a light duty pressure washer for cleaning my bike. Probably possible with just a small brush and nossle on a hose and simple green soap. If you to really clean the gears use a old toothbrush and and rag with thinner or simple green. If cables and housing look shot then replace them. If they appear ok then get oil down inside housing for easy movement of cable. Get a 13 14 and 15mm thin bike wreches for regreasing front and back hubs with bike grease or lithium grease. I always regrease the bottom bracket unless its a newer sealed version. Your most likely isn't. You need a specific tool for removing the crank arms. Called a Crank removal tool. A pedal removal tool wood be nice to, but may be able to get by without it. When you get the crank arm off you will see a thin large nut on crank that needs to be removed. Pretty sure one side is reversed threads (this is where a good manual comes in handy) I did it with a cresent wrench , but prepare youself for banged knuckles. If you can spring for the right wrench for that large nut you will not get bloody. when you get the bearings out I would just replace them. They are cheap and now is a good time to replace and regrease. If the chain looks ok then stay with it unless it starts skipping , then replace. Good tires is a good investment. Good luck with your restoration
Thanks alot for the useful information, I really aprechiate this website and its community, I will invest in the tools you reccomended.
Where can I get bearings? Also I assume I can get all the tools and cleanings supplies aswell as grease at walmart? I have not lived here for more then 2 months so I will have to look for local bike shops in the phone book.
Again thanks alot for the advice, I'm going to bed will check up on the forum tommarow before I do my running around. Happy New Year everyone!
Reedtech is offline  
Old 01-02-12, 03:56 AM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 453 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times in 87 Posts
From the spec you have listed, and the condition it's in. you will throw far more money a the bike that it will ever give you back.

You will have issues getting spares for your Suntour parts, the front wheel needs to be replaced, it has some very low spec parts, the Tourney crank, even getting new (repoduction) stickers will be expensive.

Would look at what repairing this will cost vs replacing with a new / good used bike, as this may well be be better option.
jimc101 is offline  
Old 01-02-12, 04:02 AM
  #13  
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 44,837

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12768 Post(s)
Liked 7,683 Times in 4,078 Posts
Tourney GS cranks are actually quite nice. Nothing like current Shimano Tourney stuff.



I'm with you on decals though. Just get this one running as well as possible for as cheaply as possible and enjoy. Parts are pretty good spec overall. Nice ride back in the day.

Gotta love the pedals. Old school Shimano BMX platforms:


Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 01-02-12 at 04:06 AM.
LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 01-02-12, 04:20 AM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 453 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times in 87 Posts
Those Tourney GS are quite nice, but being Standard drive gives even more problems for the OP, as there are fewer / harder to find compatible parts than with the now comon compact drive.

Would also be concerned about wear, as if used, the chainrings could well be worn out.
jimc101 is offline  
Old 01-02-12, 06:56 PM
  #15  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 19

Bikes: KHS Pro

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bike Pics

I took some pictures today, but I did not have a chance to clean the bike yet, so sorry for the dirt and stuff.

The Bike


Broken Spoke Rim




Inner Spoke Condition and Brake Wires






Sprocket and Crank


Front Decal
Reedtech is offline  
Old 01-02-12, 06:57 PM
  #16  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 19

Bikes: KHS Pro

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Right Hand Gear

Left Hand Gear





Peddle


Hopefully you all will have a better idea of what needs fixing to get it ridable.
Thank you.
Reedtech is offline  
Old 01-02-12, 07:19 PM
  #17  
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 44,837

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12768 Post(s)
Liked 7,683 Times in 4,078 Posts
That thing is beautiful!

Looks like pretty low miles just poor storage conditions. I've never brought anything back from that condition but I bet there is info on how to buff those components in the Classic & Vintage subforum.

Definitely needs new cables/housing. Repack rear hub/headset/BB, get new front wheel. Dunno how easy it is to repack those pedals but that would be nice. Get a new spoke protector.

I foresee some PB Blaster in your future, you'll want to soak some into all threaded interfaces before unscrewing them.
LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 01-02-12, 07:57 PM
  #18  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 19

Bikes: KHS Pro

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
That thing is beautiful!

Looks like pretty low miles just poor storage conditions. I've never brought anything back from that condition but I bet there is info on how to buff those components in the Classic & Vintage subforum.

Definitely needs new cables/housing. Repack rear hub/headset/BB, get new front wheel. Dunno how easy it is to repack those pedals but that would be nice. Get a new spoke protector.

I foresee some PB Blaster in your future, you'll want to soak some into all threaded interfaces before unscrewing them.
Thanks, I will look into the things you suggested need fixing. Perhaps its a good time to take the bike apart and clean each thing best I can?, Or should I leave it be for now until I get the parts and tools I need and do it all at once?
Leave me feedback on wether or not I should do that.
Reedtech is offline  
Old 01-02-12, 09:37 PM
  #19  
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: The hot spot.
Posts: 44,837

Bikes: everywhere

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12768 Post(s)
Liked 7,683 Times in 4,078 Posts
I had to think about that one, Reedtech. I'd suggest spritzing things with WD40 or the like, taking care not to get any on rubber or plastic parts or the rims (well rear rim in your case).

Since you've never torn a bike down and put it back together I guess I'd suggest taking your time and doing one bit at a time.

I've had those hubs before but never sat down and repacked them. I think they might be cartridge. If they spin smooth I guess I'd leave them alone. For the bottom bracket you'll need a crank puller to pull cranks and a BB lockring spanner. For headset you'll need a headset wrench (probably 32mm, but they make wrenches with 4 common sizes all in one) and a 12" Crescent. Oh an allen wrench for the stem, need to get that out of the way first. Just clean really well, pack cups with grease, put the bearings back in, adjust. There are videos on Park Tool and Youtube for some of this stuff. Have to look around for one that does threaded headsets and loose ball bottom brackets specifically, but...

Cable change is pretty simple. If you have a dremel you can cut housing with that. When you do the derailer cables you want chain on the small chainring and small cog when changing. Cable anchor bolts will be an allen wrench 4-6mm or a bolt head 8-10mm.

It'll be a process, one step at a time.
LesterOfPuppets is offline  
Old 01-02-12, 09:53 PM
  #20  
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,513

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2746 Post(s)
Liked 3,393 Times in 2,056 Posts
Here's a few other places to learn more.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/

https://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe...4_WORKSHOP.htm
dedhed is offline  
Old 01-03-12, 07:20 PM
  #21  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 19

Bikes: KHS Pro

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank you all for the help,I am going to spend the next few weeks working on this, will update when I start to make good progress. Again thank you.
Reedtech is offline  
Old 01-03-12, 07:58 PM
  #22  
Low car diet
 
JiveTurkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Corvallis, OR, USA
Posts: 2,407

Bikes: 2006 Windsor Dover w/105, 2007 GT Avalanche w/XT, 1995 Trek 820 setup for touring, 201? Yeah single-speed folder, 199? Huffy tandem.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
When searching on Google, type this along with your query: site:bikeforums.net

For example, if I wanted to look up "Tourney GS" on this site, I'd search Google for:

site:bikeforums.net Tourney GS

You'll be searching just the forum with Google. Works great with other sites, too.
JiveTurkey is offline  
Old 01-16-12, 01:28 PM
  #23  
spathfinder34089
 
spathfinder3408's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Washington State
Posts: 200

Bikes: fuji s12s, Schwiin Le Tour, Puegot mtn. bike, Hiawatha crusier

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Reedtech
Thanks alot for the useful information, I really aprechiate this website and its community, I will invest in the tools you reccomended.
Where can I get bearings? Also I assume I can get all the tools and cleanings supplies aswell as grease at walmart? I have not lived here for more then 2 months so I will have to look for local bike shops in the phone book.
Again thanks alot for the advice, I'm going to bed will check up on the forum tommarow before I do my running around. Happy New Year everyone!
You have to get bike grease (at bike shops) or lithium grease from wall mart. Bike tools are real thin and are not available at wall mart. Bike stores carry tools made by Park tools. Could find them on Ebay if they are hard to find in your town. Most bearings don't have to be replaced unless they are pitted. You could get replacement bearings at bike store as well. Remember to count them when you take them out so you can put the right amount back in. Tighten wheel nuts till wheel won't turn, then back off just enough to spin freely, then tighten down lock nut and check again. Redo if not right. Good luck and happy new year.
spathfinder3408 is offline  
Old 01-16-12, 06:36 PM
  #24  
rebmeM roineS
 
JanMM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Metro Indy, IN
Posts: 16,216

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 653 Post(s)
Liked 347 Times in 226 Posts
KHS stands for Knowledge, Health, Strength. But you probably already know that.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/36454830@N00/4988061/
__________________
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
JanMM is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
llamperouge3
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
7
06-24-18 07:24 PM
Soupergrover
Bicycle Mechanics
58
04-21-17 04:03 PM
Dwardner
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals.
5
12-21-14 07:33 AM
Buster1
Classic & Vintage
15
09-15-11 02:41 PM
Slammo
Bicycle Mechanics
25
04-14-10 08:37 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.