markjenn

Any tricks to getting a stubborn crank arm off a square-taper bottom bracket spindle. I've got the correct puller but the puller is stripping the outside threads in the crank arm before the arm is budging off the spindle. This is on a mid-80's Trek and I suspect these arms have never been off.

I'm hitting it with PB Blaster and a heat gun now and plan on trying the "whack with a big hammer" on the back side of the arms next (which might work on the drive side, where I can drive use a 2x4 scrap against the sprocket carrier arms near the hub - probably not an option on the non-drive side). I suspect the crank is toast given that the threads are stripped anyway. Just want to get it off at the moment.

- Mark

3alarmer 

Leave the tightening nut off the spindle.

Ride the bike around for a while, it will eventually loosen up and you
can then remove it. Don't go too far from home.

Throw away the crank.

ThermionicScott 

"stripping the outside threads"... are you getting the nut threaded on as far as it will go? Sometimes it's best to completely remove the arm from the nut and focus on engaging as many threads as possible with the nut before applying the arm.

- Scott

HillRider

Some cranks have a washer inside the puller cavity under the fixing bolt. If this washer isn't removed the puller won't remove the crank arm.

Spoonrobot 

+1, it's worked for me on a stubborn crank from a Schwinn 'cross bicycle. I bet it takes less than 5 miles for the arms are loose.

reptilezs

shock the tapered interface with a hammer. helps if you have someone standing on the pedals or prying on it. can also support the arm on an anvil/solid object and smack it. pickle fork

FBinNY 

Ive used a similar technique, but modify it for safety.

1- back off the spindle bolt or nut about 1/16", but no more, and leave it on to catch the crank when it pops free.
2- look for the steepest hill you can find and climb in a gear that has you standing on the pedals. Or do hard acceleration sprints from a standing stop. Don't use low gears, but instead put all of your weight into the pedals.

3- odds are the crank arm will be fine when it pops loose.

Other than that, using a puller.

1- make absolutely sure the pusher pad is small enough to pass through the crank and push the spindle. removers made for splined cranks won't fit a sq. taper.
2- make sure the remover is fully threaded into the crank arm engaging all 5 or so threads. hanging on one or two will cause you to divide and conquer stripping the crank by degrees.

When all else has failed, go to a good (industrial) hardware store and buy a pair of Jacobs Chuck removal wedges, which are are pretty cheap, and will work 100% of the time. (they come in sizes, be sure to buy the right one (I think it's #2 or 3, ask for one with a 9/16" U-slot or next size up).

markjenn

Thanks for suggestions. Can't ride the bike, so that's not an option. I have the right puller which worked perfectly on the non-drive side and I'm using it correctly, so that's not the problem.

I took it to a shop and they got it off the frame by removing the fixed cup, so now I have a crank arm and spindle assembly welded together with a fixed cup and bearings between. The crank is toast, so I beat on the spindle with a large hammer/vise for ten minutes trying to drive it out of the crank arm - no go. These things are welded together. I'll just replace the BB and crank and move on.

- Mark

rothenfield1

I've completely stripped threads out of a perfectly good crank arm before realizing that there was a washer in there. Now that sucks.

onespeedbiker

I once bought a a worn out crankset just for the pedals (ATAC with only an Allen socket). I ended up having to cut them out with a Dremel tool. Even a single cut did not loosen the threads I had to remove a section of the crank arm end to finally get them out.

markjenn

I finally got the spindle and crank arm separated with a propane torch and a BIG hammer. As the famous expression from the Vietnam war goes, "The village was destroyed in order to save it". Anybody got a Sakae SX triple right/drive crank arm laying around?

- Mark

Edit: Dyslexic me screwed up the sides - I need the right/drive side.

FBinNY 

I might, what length?

markjenn

170, but if you have both arms, I might be interested in buying both of a different length, particularly if they're 172.5 or 175. From what I understand, these Sakae triple cranks might be SX or SA with the only difference being the outer BCD (130 for the SX and 110 for the SA).

Thanks for looking.

- Mark

Bill Kapaun

IF inexpensive is an issue, you could probably get away using a MTB triple if it's 28-38-48.

HillRider

I have an entire Sakae SX triple crank (110/74 bcd) with 170 mm arms sitting on my surplus parts shelf. It has the OEM 52/42 outer rings and spacers for the granny and I could add a 30T or 28T granny ring if you need it. The crank would be free but I would ask you pay the shipping. PM me if you are interested.

FBinNY 

I'm almost certain I have pairs of 170 arms in both 130 and 110bcd, though I suspect you want 110/74 bcds. I'll confirm stock tomorrow and PM you the details.

markjenn

My current crank is a 130/74 and I've corrected my post above to show that I need the right/drive side, not the left. Thanks for offers, appreciate it. Sent PMs to both HillRider and FBinNY.

- Mark

Jazzper07

HillRider:
Hi there, I'm actually looking for a triple crank arm/set. Would you still have these parts available and how much would shipping be? I reside in Los Angeles, CA. Thanks for your time

BentLink

This worked for me:
- poured a pot of Boiling water on the crank to expand it
- Used a gear puller (craftsman I think) to pull it off

Crank was stripped (and replaced now)...but it got it off

DannoXYZ 

One thing that worked for me was to wedge a motorcycle tyre-iron in the gap between the crankarm and BB-cup. Pry a little and >POP< , comes off in less than 5-seconds.