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Old 01-30-12, 10:14 PM   #1
sproyd
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Jammed on headset - how to get this thing off (with pic)

[SOLVED - don't think I can edit the thread title?]

Hey Guys

I picked up a complete 2nd hand bike on TradeMe (like eBay in NZ) and am currently going through the dismantling process. As you can imagine I've hit a couple of snags - I'll keep each problem (2 atm) to a separate thread.

Problem #1
Cannot remove this damn headset/fork/steering tube assembly!!

The top cap and bolt came out easily as did the stem. Firstly the headset spacers were seized on and I couldn't remove them due to the rust on the steering tube. With a bit of WD40 and sanding back the rust the 4 spacers came off one by one. The only part left is the flared (spacer) part at the bottom but it WONT BUDGE.

I've tried liberal amounts of WD40, CRC, sanding the tube, the hammer + wooden block trick but there is absolutely no play and as you can see prying with a flathead screwdriver has just bent the metal of the headset.

Am I doing something wrong? Help appreciated
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File Type: jpg P1020153.jpg (53.9 KB, 28 views)

Last edited by sproyd; 01-31-12 at 12:30 AM. Reason: solved
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Old 01-30-12, 10:25 PM   #2
reptilezs
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you are almost there and on the right track. spin the spacer to break the corrosion bond. i would sand some more too. i like the emory paper that plumbers use. cloth backed and strong. i should post a pic of the fork holder i made. its an axle from a front hub and a piece of pipe trough it. you can also use the front wheel http://bostonbicyclemechanic.blogspo...less-fork.html
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Old 01-30-12, 10:26 PM   #3
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The cup itself has a tapered centering cone. Corrosion can create a Catch 22 situation. As you try to pull the cup up you're making the cone tighter. If you've managed to get some movement, see if you can give the cup a sharp rap downward and dislodge the cone.

Otherwise see if you can brace the bottom of the head tube against something solid. The end grain of two pieces of wood held in a vise is probaby best. Once the frame is braced well, protect the top of the fork and try to tap it down until you have enough room to then tap the cup off the centering cone.
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Old 01-31-12, 12:29 AM   #4
sproyd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reptilezs View Post
you are almost there and on the right track. spin the spacer to break the corrosion bond. i would sand some more too. i like the emory paper that plumbers use. cloth backed and strong. i should post a pic of the fork holder i made. its an axle from a front hub and a piece of pipe trough it. you can also use the front wheel http://bostonbicyclemechanic.blogspo...less-fork.html
Thanks reptilezs - with the help of your post and link I was able to get the final tapered spacer piece off. I sanded some more and very forcefully twisted off the piece with locking pliers - took some serious brute force.

I thought I'd attach pics to show the satisfying result. Lets just say my good friend locking pliers and the headset piece are no longer talking.

Now to my next question - should I keep all the bearings, covers etc that come out from between the head tube and fork or replace? Specifically the bits still attached which I think are called the upper and lower head tube race...?
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File Type: jpg P1020173.jpg (87.4 KB, 24 views)
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