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Thread: what tool ??

  1. #1
    Senior Member consumes's Avatar
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    what tool ??

    what tool do i need to get this BB adjusted

    its on a mid 90's Hardrock
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    A pin spanner is the correct tool: http://www.parktool.com/product/pin-spanner-green-spa-1 but many times the adjusting cup can be turned with carefully-placed taps of a hammer on a screwdriver.

    This should also help: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...racket-service
    Jeff Wills

    All my bikes.

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    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Wills View Post
    A pin spanner is the correct tool but many times the adjusting cup can be turned with carefully-placed taps of a hammer on a screwdriver.
    I've used a hammer and screwdriver on lockrings before (now I have the correct lockring tool) but I've never needed a tool for the adjustable cup. Often I can move it with my hand or use a needlenose pliers as a "pin spanner."
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

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    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    A pin spanner would be the correct tool unless the threads are siezed on that part which they may well be due to the age of the bike. A screwdriver and hammer will work, so will a hammer and center punch. Looks like you already have the lockring off and if you plan on replacing the BB I wouldn't worry about using the 'correct' tool. If the threads are siezed you'd just break the pins off the pin spanner anyway.

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    Retro Grouch onespeedbiker's Avatar
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    Yes a pin spanner, but it won't do you any good without the locknut and a hook spanner..

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    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Looking at the pic, it appears the movable cup is screwed in more than it should go.
    Are things "garbaged" inside?

  7. #7
    Senior Member consumes's Avatar
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    i tore into because i noticed some up and down play in the bb .... thought i might to able to adjust it but i should probaly just put in a new BB .... i have some small punches ... i'll gingerly try that 1st .... is it reverse thread ?

  8. #8
    Senior Member consumes's Avatar
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    the crank has a touch of up and down play ... needs a new BB ... but was hoping i could try adjusting 1st

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    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Where is the Lockring?
    .. i should probaly just put in a new BB..
    yes , remove both sides [or bring it into the shop,
    as there are more tools to buy, just to take it apart ]
    and get a new Shimano UN xx BB,of the right spindle length.

    The LBS will get you the matching one for what you need.

  10. #10
    Senior Member consumes's Avatar
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    is there any reference material on the internet to look up what BB i need .... i'd rather keep this out the LBS ... im stubborn

    i might be wrong but the only tool i still need is the park HCW-4 .. anyone disagree?


  11. #11
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Without seeing the other side, who knows if the HCW-4 will work?

    I have one and it doesn't work as a pin spanner for everything and I know the open end doesn't work for everything.
    Else I wouldn't have My HCW-5 & 11 and 12" Crescent wrench.

    Edit-
    Pay attention to the orientation of the spindle-
    It likely has a "long" side and a "short" side.
    That WILL matter when trying to determine the proper size of a BB if you need a new one.
    It'll like be marked in the style of.... 3-P, 3-S, 5-T or similar.

    PS- What part of Oregon are you in?
    Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 02-04-12 at 02:33 AM.

  12. #12
    Senior Member consumes's Avatar
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    salem

  13. #13
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by consumes View Post
    salem
    I'm in Albany if you get hard up and need a hand-

  14. #14
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    That HCW 4 should work however.... The "Fixed" cup is normally secured pretty tightly. since you intend to simply remove and replace this BB I recomend taking it to a shop

    1 Removing a fixed cup is tough, they are called fixed for a reason. having the hcw4 is only the first part. most of us more experienced mechanincs have some tool (purchased or homemade) to assist in holding the tool in place while loosening the cup. my HCW4, well one of them, has quite a large cheater attached to it. I seldom have issue with stuck ones or ones coming loose. OH leave the BB spindle and adj cup in. the shop should have no problem just loosening the fixed cup for you

    2 while at the shop they can take the measurements I bet you have a 73mm shell and 122mm spindle and be able to sell you what you need or order it for you.

    3 when buyng/ordering the BB also buy the correct installation tool.
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    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Wait! Hold on!

    Why are you replacing the BB? If you want a zero maintenance system then by all means get a cartridge unit. But for a buck or two for ball bearings you can rebuild the BB you have with fresh grease, and you don't have to remove the fixed cup. The internals are most likely fine, the adjustment was probably loose. I've rebuilt some really bad cup-and-cone bottom brackets and gotten them to spin smoothly once again with no play.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  16. #16
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Plain bearing solid slug axle BB is nothing to be attached to, over haul clean and inspect ,
    If the races are not smooth , which I doubt they are, its a MTB after all, replace.
    UN types are $20..

  17. #17
    Retro Grouch onespeedbiker's Avatar
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    Bianchigirll

    You might be having visions of removing Italian fixed cups on your Bianchis . Generally on old mountain bikes and most English BB for that matter I've never found it not to be as big of a deal as long as you have the right tools.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onespeedbiker View Post
    Bianchigirll

    You might be having visions of removing Italian fixed cups on your Bianchis . Generally on old mountain bikes and most English BB for that matter I've never found it not to be as big of a deal as long as you have the right tools.
    Since you only have about 3MM of purchase, the wrench can slip quite easily on stubborn cups.
    I use the HCW-4 and the first time I used it, I had problems slipping on a tight cup. That rounds off the flats on the cup AND the tool.
    I immediately picked up a couple different lengths of 8MM bolts, and a stack of washers.
    I use one of my cartridge BB tools,a few washers and 1 of the bolts to hold the wrench snug against the cup. THEN I can give it a good rap with the 4 pound hammer if necessary.

  19. #19
    Senior Member consumes's Avatar
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    couldn't get it to budge with the needle nose pliers .... sprayed some pb buster on the thread .. might try it late tonight after the game

  20. #20
    Senior Member consumes's Avatar
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    my goal is to get the adjustable side off ... take out the splindle and check everything 1st .....

  21. #21
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastJake View Post
    Wait! Hold on!

    Why are you replacing the BB? If you want a zero maintenance system then by all means get a cartridge unit. But for a buck or two for ball bearings you can rebuild the BB you have with fresh grease, and you don't have to remove the fixed cup. The internals are most likely fine, the adjustment was probably loose. I've rebuilt some really bad cup-and-cone bottom brackets and gotten them to spin smoothly once again with no play.
    You beat me to it.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  22. #22
    Senior Member consumes's Avatar
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    got the adjustable cup off ... it looks good .. i'll make sure not to flip the splindle around the wrong way

  23. #23
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    What's the size code on the spindle?
    It'll probably be 3-?, with the ? representing a letter. (3-P, 3-S etc.)

    Try to wipe down the fixed cup, and using a light, inspect it well. IME that's the side that usually goes bad first.

    You are aware the fixed cup is left hand threaded?

  24. #24
    Senior Member consumes's Avatar
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    i haven't inspected the drive side race but if all looks good i'll probaly just repack .... i picked up this bike for 7 bucks .... kinda wanna keep it on the ultra cheap side

  25. #25
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by consumes View Post
    i haven't inspected the drive side race but if all looks good i'll probaly just repack .... i picked up this bike for 7 bucks .... kinda wanna keep it on the ultra cheap side
    Repack is the best way to go if you want to be on the cheap side. One of three things will happen:

    1. The bearing will work perfectly
    2. The bearing will be less smooth than if it were brand new.
    3. The rough surfaces will make everything self destruct.

    #3 is the only bad one, and it's quite rare unless the surfaces are very pitted. I've only had it happen to me once on a pedal. IMHO, people often make too big a deal about replacing balls/cups/cones when fresh grease and proper adjustment will almost always make the bearing 100 times better than it was before. If it does go bad, all you're out is some grease and time.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

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