gsus

So, I bought a 2009 GT GTR Series-4 bike last year, but, as the title states I'm a newbie. Long-story-short, I like the bike but I wasn’t liking the Sora thumb shifters… So, In come the new (used) parts set from ebay:
Shimano 105 Brifters (5600)
105 crank (5600)
105 FD (5600)
105 10spd cassette (5600)
Ultegra RD (??)
shimano 105 brakes (5700)
--I also picked up a new Jagwire Racer DIY Kit

In the past I’ve done my own work on cars and motorcycle, so I decided to tackle this adventure myself. All of the hardware swapped out fine, but I haven’t moved on to adjusting the parts for proper operation, because the provided Jagwire POP fittings do not seem to fit snugly into the brake adjuster thing (the noodle?).

I don’t want to speculate and come up with the wrong answer and, unfortunately, my searches have been of little help. So, I’m turning to the help of the forum members for some guidance in the right direction.

I’ve attached an image, that I’m not sure if it will be helpful or not.

Needless to say, any input would be greatly appreciated.

Zef

was that the only type of ferrule that came with the jagwire kit? take the housing and threaded cable tension adjuster to a bike shop and ask for a ferrule that will fit. Should cost $1 or less depending on the shop...they may even give you it for free.

-j

gsus

Unfortunately, those were the only ferrules that were included for the brake cables . I'll have to swing by the shop tomorrow, hopefully they can help me out, thanks for the help.

reptilezs

i just measured a "standard" ferule and got 5mm id and 5.65mm od

soonerrebel

I use the Jagwire Racer kit on all my road bikes but i DO NOT use the POP fittings for the reasons you stated. Simply replace the POP fittings with standard 5mm housing end caps.

gsus

That's interesting... based on my measurements and now yours, a standard fitting may not work either, huh? Hopefully the shop has something that will work- which will have to be tomorrow at this point (family is over )

gsus

What fittings have you used?

Marc7200

It is OK to have it loose, I have the same setup on my Roubaix with Ultegra 6600 Brakes. Before I had the POP ferrules I was not using one at all since I couldn't find one that fitted in the adjuster. I read on the web that Shimano installed a "captive ferrule" in the adjuster and a ferrule was not needed. The POP ferrules are designed loose so that it is easy to turn the brake adjuster since the ferrule is not tightly jammed into the adjuster. The important thing is that the cable has a hard end that the POP ferrule provides. Use the POP's.

Scroll down to "ferrules" on Sheldon's site

https://sheldonbrown.com/cables.html#ferrules

Look at last reply on thread

https://forums.bicycling.com/eve/foru...7/m/5741015052

soonerrebel

I use these ...
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...198&category=7 the 5mm ones.

You can actually not use any end cap since the brakes have a kind of internal ferrule.... But I prefer to remove the small internal ferrule from the brakes and install an end cap. Makes for a tight connection.

Burton

From the measurements posted looks like the previous owner tossed the captive ferrules originally in the brake cable adjuster. With the captive ferrule installed that measurement should be about 5.25mm on the previous metal versions and 5.00 on the latest plastic versions.

Installation of a Jagwire Racer kit normally doesn't require ferrules at either end of the housing. The spiral wound end should be ground or filed flat and will butt against the internal brifter stop, and the other end of the housing should fit into the captive ferrule at the brake end. If thats missing then a specialty reinforced ferrule is necessary. A regular stamped metal ferrule can't handle the forces generated by compressionless housing strands. The ferrules supplied with a Jagwire Racer kit for use with the brake housing are weather sealed units and are only needed where the cable is cut for spans for the rear brake. You shouldn't need all of them so don't worry if there are some left over. It's OK to swap them for non-sealed units but they must be compressionless compatible.