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  1. #1
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    Vintage Trek BB Removal

    Hello all -
    I am planning to overhaul my 1982 Trek 614's bottom bracket and I want to make sure I get the right tools. I am assuming it has the original Nikko bottom bracket since all other parts are original. Here's what I think I need... Park CCP-22 for crank removal, Park HCW5 for the lockring, HCW4 and HCW5 for the bottom bracket removal. Is that correct?

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    Quote Originally Posted by KB12 View Post
    Hello all -
    I am planning to overhaul my 1982 Trek 614's bottom bracket and I want to make sure I get the right tools. I am assuming it has the original Nikko bottom bracket since all other parts are original. Here's what I think I need... Park CCP-22 for crank removal, Park HCW5 for the lockring, HCW4 and HCW5 for the bottom bracket removal. Is that correct?
    That would make sense if it's a typical cup/cone BB with lockring. Don't forget that you'll also need an allen wrench. Also just a reminder, the right BB cup has left hand threads. In case you're dyslexic, remember that both cups unscrew by turning the top toward the front of the bike.
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    Great, thanks!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Pictures would help us make any recommendation with greater confidence.
    Sometimes the "pin" spacing doesn't match the HCW-4.
    A pin spanner (SPA-1) or even a couple Philips screwdrivers can work though.
    I serviced a BB yesterday that required the HCW-11 tool for the adjustable cup that had the rectangular "boss" instead of the holes.
    Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 02-05-12 at 04:00 PM.

  5. #5
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    If your only planning to service the BB and not replace it you really don't need to remove the "Fixed" cup (the one on the drive side) so you could eliminate the HCW4 and get the pin spanner instead.

    Odds are if the fixed cup has never been removed it will be impossibly tight requireing lots of torque to remove. Unfortunately getting the wrench to hold still on those narrow cup flats is difficult and requires some extra tools either purchased or homemade
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  6. #6
    Senior Member rothenfield1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    If your only planning to service the BB and not replace it you really don't need to remove the "Fixed" cup (the one on the drive side) so you could eliminate the HCW4 and get the pin spanner instead.

    Odds are if the fixed cup has never been removed it will be impossibly tight requireing lots of torque to remove. Unfortunately getting the wrench to hold still on those narrow cup flats is difficult and requires some extra tools either purchased or homemade
    I think it would be interesting to learn what "extra tools" and techniques you use to remove old fixed cups.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rothenfield1 View Post
    I think it would be interesting to learn what "extra tools" and techniques you use to remove old fixed cups.
    There are dedicated fixed cup removal/installation tools which lock the cup to substantial T handled fixture. For the home mechanic are devices which bolt to the spindle and hold the spanner so ti can't jump off the cup.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    I use a piece of flat bar with a hole in it that slides over the spindle.
    I then use my PARK BBT-22 for a spacer.
    I then screw in a 8MM bolt with a flat washer (finger tight) into the spindle end, which pushes the BBT-22 against the flat bar which holds the HCW-4 in place.
    Doesn't work on nutted types though.

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    i've used sheldon's DIY remover to good effect on some old fixed cups:

    bbtool-bolt.jpg

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    A 4" long 5/8" bolt with a couple of big washers and a nut can be used to hold the fixed cup in place so it can't slip while you apply the needed torque.

    1. Remove the adjustable cup, spindle and bearings then thread the adjustable cup back in several turns.
    2. Place a large washer on the bolt first and then run the bolt through the adjustable cup so the threaded end it sticks out of the fixed cup.
    3. Place your fixed cup wrench over the cup's flats, add a second washer outside of the wrench and thread on the nut just barely snug.
    4. Now the fixed cup wrench can't move while you turn the wrench (clockwise while facing the drive side) to unthread the fixed cup. "Turn" may be a bit of a misnomer and beating on the wrench with a mallet may be needed to get the cup started. These things are often very tight.
    5. As soon as the cup breaks loose begin to back off the nut to let it unthread.

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