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  1. #1
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    I am planning to restore an old Peugot bike. First off, I plan to start with the paint job. I plan on using paint stripper to remove the old paint. For the rest of the paint and primer, i was thinking about just using spray paint from the cans. Is this a bad idea? I want to keep this as cheap as possible. Also how many coats of primer, and how many coats of paint (just doing a simple blue design with white highlights), and how many coats of clear-coat should i do? During each coat, what grit of wet sand paper should i use? I have seen mixed opinions talked about on this forum, ranging from 400, to 1500. What are your opinions? Also, are there any other tips or anything else i should know before i begin?

  2. #2
    Stays crunchy in milk
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    I'm looking at doing the same thing. I found the following link useful: http://www.mindspring.com/~d.g1/paint.htm
    Cheers,

    Andrew

  3. #3
    Glutton for Punishment
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    That's an excellent link; I've had really good luck repainting with aerosol cans. The main thing in any repaint -- cans or guns -- is surface preparation and attention to detail. Here's a couple additional tips about aerosol cans:

    If you can, buy cans that use 'fanspray' nozzles; they put out an oblong pattern similar to spray guns, and the orifice can be rotated to any angle.

    Shake the h*ll out of the can, then let it sit in a sink of hot water (as hot as your hand can stand) for a few minutes just prior to use. This has the effect of raising the pressure of the propellant inside the can, and provides better paint delivery.

    Have a backup: Depending on the size of the item you're painting, have two or three cans shaken, heated and ready. Then, if one can begins to lose pressure as it cools, or you have a nozzle clog up, you can immediately switch to a fresh can and continue on.

  4. #4
    Senior Member little5guy's Avatar
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    For sand paper, I use a 100 to remove stubborn paint, but 220 will also work if there is not much to remove. For wet sanding I use water proof 600 ( I think). There are a boat load of links on painting on the forum if you search. Bottom line is if the frame is a good one, do it professionally. If you want to do it on the cheap for a less than good frame, spray cans do a decent job. Of course, I am currently repainting my first frame, so I am far from an expert.

  5. #5
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    Take it to a sand blaster and have them bead blast the old paint off. Then take it to a car painter and strike deal. I belive you will be much more satisified with the results. Thats what my son just told me to do this evening and not only does he wrench, but he loves to do everthing himself. Just not paint, which takes a lot of practice to get good at it. Not to mention those lovely vapors. Ever have a conversation with an old painter
    Just my 2 cents.

  6. #6
    Meow! my58vw's Avatar
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    I have done lots of rattle can paint jobs that end up like auto paint literally... mostly in building high end computer cases with custom paint. My next project bike I will probably do a custom paint scheme from out club... but...

    To paint a bike frame with rattle cans the right way takes lots and lots of work... did I mention work, oh ya and lots of time, like weeks.

    1. Prep... stip old paint, primer, etc, fix any damage underneeth. In my work this means fabrication, fillers, etc. On a bike just sanding down the bare metal with 600 grat and using tack cloth afterwards works.

    2. Primer... spray it, use a medium build at least at first to fill in any minor scratches in the medal. Sand it down with 220 grit then when smooth, 400 grit, 600 grit and possibly to 1000 grit +. Remeber your primer makes all the difference in the look and durability of the paint. It the primer gets thin and exposes bare metal reprime and do it again... and again. Always use wet and dry sandpaper about 600 grit and go slow...

    3. Once a nice smooth primer finish is down spray your first color coat, making sure you have enough paint for the entire set of coats. Follow directions on the can for painting, generally alot of little coats seperated for a little amount of time. Next let the paint cure... and not for 10 minutes or till dry but for atleast 5 days... and I mean it unless the can says shorter. Not letting the paint cure will mean that is is still slightly wet underneeth the layer and your color sanding will come out bad.

    Once the paint is cured you can color sand, no less than 600 grit, but 1000+ grit is better. Sand ALL the orange peel out, any left in will cause the gloss to be not good and bumpy. Once you sand it all out you will notice somthing, either the paint has changed colors (kind of a grayish original color) or you will have eaten to the primer. If the later is the case repeat and add more paint to where the cut through occured. Pacience here is what makes a good rattle can paint job.

    On a side not if the paint is a metalic, color sanding excessivly will ruin the matalic properties... do not color sand or do so with 1000+ only and not much. I have learned this the hard way.

    4. Once the paint is dry, cured and colorsanded spray with a nice high quality clear coat, atleast a few coats according to the label. The clear also has orange peel so it must be color sanded too, just with nothing at a minumum of 1000 grit of lower, 1500+ is recomended. Once the clear looks good you will say, wow this looks crappy... buffing is next.

    5. Remember that nice flat color you cleared over... now change it back to the normal color... take your polishing compound (rubbing compound or the nice stuff works well). Start with small areas and move around. You will see the nice polished finish and color come out. You will get to a point where you can not go any farther, you may be done. This can also be done with an auto polisher quicker and easier.

    6. Take a nice glaze componend (like show car glaze 9) and polish the surface to get rid of the last bit of cloudiness. You are done congraduations.

    The paint will be harder to care for than normal auto paint and it can scratch easy. Also test on a test surface before spraying. Otherwise good luck... there are alot of resources out there to help you with this too.
    Just your average club rider... :)

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