Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    Posts
    10
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Brakes and shifter (internal hub) on bullhorns

    Hi all,

    I am rebuilding my old road bike, and I really want two things: an internal 7- or 8-speed hub, and bullhorn handlebars.

    Unfortunately, over three days of searching on the web, I'm finding that there's no standard setup for having both brakes and shifters on bullhorns, and most people's solutions are jerry-rigged, one-off solutions for their particular setup.

    I think I've come up with a solution that I'm happy with, but would love to hear your comments.

    1. Basic cheap Origin-8 bullhorns, 24mm, 20.1 mm Inner diameter
    2. A JTek 7- or 8-speed bar-end shifter.
    3. A single time-trial style brake lever for the other bullhorn, like one of these Crane Creeks for the front brake.
    4. One (or two?) cross levers like these Soma levers.


    The idea is that, in the hands-forward position, I'd have access to the shifter and the front brake, and in the upright position I'd have access to the other (or both) of the brakes.

    Mostly this is a compromise because the bar-end JTek shifter seems like it is the only shifter that would work with bullhorns and an internal hub. Since that takes up one of the holes, I can only have one other brake on the other horn. I've read about Paul's Thumbies, but as far as I can tell they wouldn't work for 7- or 8-speed internal hubs.

    Also, because I'm a newbie at all this, I can't work out whether the cross brakes work as interrupter brakes -- that is, whether I'd be able to have a second lever for my front brake. Also, do interrupter levers even work on center-pull brakes?

    So, any thoughts? Any better way to have both the shifter and brakes on the bullhorns? Do the components listed above all fit together?

    Thanks! First time trying to do bike work at this lever, and I've been in a paralysis the past few days with all the (mostly incompatible) options, and I'm trying to finally settle on something!

    (There's also a nice setup here with bar-end shifters and what look to be timetrial brake levers, but I can't find any information on what the levers are.)

  2. #2
    Warning:Annoying to jerks RaleighSport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    STS
    My Bikes
    Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Raleigh Team Technium, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2
    Posts
    5,786
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Are you talking a 7-8 IGH with a coaster, or are you running a rear centerpull as well? I don't know if my personal experience will help or not, but I had a centurion a little while ago that I put bar end shifters at the ends of some chopped drops converted into bullhorns, I was able to use some non aero levers I had laying around with a pair of mafac racers, mounting the levers on the bottom at the tips of the horns, it was actually quite nice. You want to run interrupters so you have levers available in the flats I take it?
    “Let me never fall into the vulgar mistake of dreaming that I am persecuted whenever I am contradicted.”


    ― Ralph Waldo Emerson, Emerson in His Journals

  3. #3
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NW,Oregon Coast
    My Bikes
    7
    Posts
    39,953
    Mentioned
    27 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    there are cable doublers, then the 1 lever will operate both brakes off one lever.
    Back in the day tandems had both rim brakes on a 2 cable brake lever,
    and the drum drag brake on the rear hub, operated on the other lever..
    so it's not un heard of..

    A bit of a set up challenge, of course...,
    its hard to be abnormal..

    interruptor levers spread the Housing, that they interrupt.
    the cable passes straight thru
    to the brake at the end of the cable..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 02-12-12 at 01:49 PM.

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    Posts
    10
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm thinking now it may be simpler to go with just the bar-end shifter and two cross levers on the flats. If that all works out, maybe I'll get more advanced and upgrade one of the cross levers to a TT lever+interrupt.

    My main reason for wanting the TT lever was efficiency -- it seemed silly to let a bar-end go unfilled while I was putting something in the other. But I think for a first-time big conversion I should go for simplicity first.

  5. #5
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakville Ontario
    Posts
    4,858
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well, stay tuned to find out how this works out, but I'm in the midst of a build like that right now. 3 speed Sturmey Archer, bar end shifter and bull horns. I'm using interrupter style levers in the upright part of the bar.
    should have it together tomorrow and be able to post some pictures.
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


    Rule #12: The correct number of bikes to own is n+1

  6. #6
    Gear Combo Guru Chris_W's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Switzerland
    My Bikes
    Spec' Tarmac (road), Spec' Secteur Disc (commuter & tourer), Salsa Mamasita (MTB), CoMo Speedster (tandem), Surly Big Dummy (cargo), Airnimal (folder), a train pass, and NO car :)
    Posts
    2,046
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Instead of the bull-horn specific brake levers, which mount in the end of the bars, you can also use standard drop-bar brake levers, like a cheap pair of Tektros. Most bullhorn bars have enough curvature so that the levers have enough clearance from the bars to give them room to operate before touching the bar, although with flatter bullhorns, without much of a hooked end, then this will be a problem. The other problem is routing of the brake cable, which comes out of the top of the lever, and so this would then be going forwards. I solved this by filing away some of the brake lever body to allow the cale to exit a little differently, then also using a "flexible noodle" designed for V-brakes to make the tight turn to direct the cable under the bar tape; this causes a bit more friction in the housing, so you might need to increase the tension in the brake's springs, if that is possible with your model of brake.

    You could also go for an integrated brake/shifter, there is a model called the Versa-8 that is similar to a Shimano STI, but is designed to operate an Alfine or Nexus 8-speed hub (there is now another model for an Alfine-11 also). Again, you would need a bull-horn with a sufficient amount of bend at the end to mount these and have sufficient range for the brae lever.

  7. #7
    Si Senior dbg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Naperville, Illinois
    My Bikes
    Too Numerous (not)
    Posts
    2,329
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    In-line brake levers can be had cheaper than the link you show (http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...3_20000_400198)
    David Green, Naperville, IL USA "The older I get, the better I used to be" --Lee Trevino

  8. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    Posts
    10
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for all the recommendations guys. Dan Burkhart: I'd love to see that build when you're finished with it.

    One thing I still haven't been able to understand: Can I use in-line brake levers with center-pull U-brakes? I can't find any info on this online, though these Paul's mention working for center-pull, but looking at it mechanically I can't see how it would work. (I guess that's offtopic so I could also make that question another thread.)
    Last edited by SamSam; 02-13-12 at 06:28 AM.

  9. #9
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Camp Hill, PA
    My Bikes
    Too many to list here check my signature.
    Posts
    20,036
    Mentioned
    29 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    I am not sure if your aware of this but that J-Tek shifter works backwards well the hub actually. unlike a standard barend shifter when it is in the full down powition you are in the easiest gear and in the full up the hardest gear. that can be confusing with more than one set of barends in the house!

    Also what kind of frame? does it have horizontal drops or vertical? vertical require special anti rotation washers and a chain tensioner
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    Posts
    10
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    I am not sure if your aware of this but that J-Tek shifter works backwards well the hub actually.
    I think I can get used to it. It will be my only bike, so I won't have to keep switching.
    Also what kind of frame? does it have horizontal drops or vertical? vertical require special anti rotation washers and a chain tensioner
    It's an old Kalkhoff that has diagonal dropouts. It looks a lot like this bike. The dropouts are roughly 45º, or maybe a little closer to vertical. Will I still need the anti-rotation washers?
    Last edited by SamSam; 02-13-12 at 07:58 AM.

  11. #11
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Camp Hill, PA
    My Bikes
    Too many to list here check my signature.
    Posts
    20,036
    Mentioned
    29 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    you need antirotation washers for any bike, they just come in different angles for different dropouts. your should take the basic washer that comes in the cassette kit
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  12. #12
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakville Ontario
    Posts
    4,858
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by SamSam View Post
    Thanks for all the recommendations guys. Dan Burkhart: I'd love to see that build when you're finished with it.
    I planned to have it done today, but I'm battling the flu or something, so I've only managed a couple of short spurts out in the garage, and been spending the rest of the day on the couch.
    Hopefully I'll have something to show you later.
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


    Rule #12: The correct number of bikes to own is n+1

  13. #13
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakville Ontario
    Posts
    4,858
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    OK, got 'er done. The verdict is, it works. I'm very happy with the result. Note that if you use a bar end shifter with a Shimano hub, as Bianchigirll said, the shifter works the other way (low normal).





    Better explanation here.
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


    Rule #12: The correct number of bikes to own is n+1

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •