new chain problems
#1
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new chain problems
Anyone got any tips for fixing a tight chain link. I don't know if thats the name for it really, but it doesnt flex/move freely like the other links. I don't want to buy a new chain, any tricks?? it is a brand new chain, i used a pin to link it together. oh yeah it is stiff where the chain pin is.
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Is it a Shimano chain? If so and you didn't seat the joining pin completely, the chain will be tight at that spot. As you push in the pin it will suddenly get a bit easier to turn the chain tool's handle as it reaches full insertion. Be sure the head of the special pin is almost flush with the side plates.
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Back in the day, stiff links on newly closed chains was very common. Some chain tools had a step made expressly for increasing the gap between the outer and inner link. Without the special chain tool, you can usually free the link by putting your thumbs on the suspect pin and flexing the chain sideways (the way chains don't flex). This makes the inner link wedge the outer plates apart, so do it slowly and by degrees only until the chain is free.
BUT-- and this could be very important and spare you some grief. so read below before riding
Modern chains, anything marked 8s or more on the package, cannot be properly closed by pushing a pin back in. The pins on these chains are peened over the outside of the plate (like the rivets in bridge construction) so the plate cannot be pushed over the end of the pin. This is necessary because the chains were made narrower by using shorter pins that don't stick out as far as they used to.
So, while you might free the link, if this is a flush pin chain, you broke the head off the pin when you pushed it out, and it won't grow back. That means that the plate isn't secure and may (probably will) end up spreading beyond the end of the pin causing the chain to snap under load.
BUT-- and this could be very important and spare you some grief. so read below before riding
Modern chains, anything marked 8s or more on the package, cannot be properly closed by pushing a pin back in. The pins on these chains are peened over the outside of the plate (like the rivets in bridge construction) so the plate cannot be pushed over the end of the pin. This is necessary because the chains were made narrower by using shorter pins that don't stick out as far as they used to.
So, while you might free the link, if this is a flush pin chain, you broke the head off the pin when you pushed it out, and it won't grow back. That means that the plate isn't secure and may (probably will) end up spreading beyond the end of the pin causing the chain to snap under load.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 02-13-12 at 08:55 PM.
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i used a shimano Pin...and maybe you will think im stupid, but the chain is a campy one...i thought it'd be okay?
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I don't know about interchangeability of the closure pins but wouldn't be surprised that they're not. Shimano makes a number of pins for their chains with different distances between the flares on the pins, so it's likely that the pin is too narrow (short) for your chain.
Don't take this personally, but on my wall is a sign that reads "Nothing is foolproof, because fools are too ingenious". I think you might have proved this.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
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OTOH, it's a minor feat to get a loose pin IN the chain.
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Creative, it had to happen eventually.
I don't know about interchangeability of the closure pins but wouldn't be surprised that they're not. Shimano makes a number of pins for their chains with different distances between the flares on the pins, so it's likely that the pin is too narrow (short) for your chain.
Don't take this personally, but on my wall is a sign that reads "Nothing is foolproof, because fools are too ingenious". I think you might have proved this.
I don't know about interchangeability of the closure pins but wouldn't be surprised that they're not. Shimano makes a number of pins for their chains with different distances between the flares on the pins, so it's likely that the pin is too narrow (short) for your chain.
Don't take this personally, but on my wall is a sign that reads "Nothing is foolproof, because fools are too ingenious". I think you might have proved this.
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Oh yeah, forgot to update...I totally got it to work from Hillrider's tip. Kudos! ...definitely going to get a masterlink next time...
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Good but be careful. My recommendation was based on a Shimano joining pin in a matching width Shimano chain. I have no idea how sound that joint will be if you used a Shimano pin in a Campy chain. Campy chains are fussy enough if you use their recommended links, nevermind something that wasn't considered in their design.
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I'm just about to put on a new SRAM PC951 on my Salsa Mukluk. The chain came very heavily greased in the package. Should I be degreasing it first before I put it on?
Thanks
Steve
Thanks
Steve
#13
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You might want to wipe the excess off with a rag.
I certainly wouldn't take "extreme" means to get off any more than that.
I certainly wouldn't take "extreme" means to get off any more than that.