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    7 speed freewheels

    I'm thinking of adding a cog.Always used 6 speed 14-28 frewheel and now thought I'd switch to 7 speed.Whats the downside to 14-34.Is it less smooth shifting or riding?!3-28?Or just stick to 14-28 with an extra cog?

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    trek330, The switch to free hubs came about, IIRC, to prevent breaking axles. I'd prefer adding a gear somewhere in the more used range unless you need something at either top or bottom.

    Brad

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    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
    trek330, The switch to free hubs came about, IIRC, to prevent breaking axles. I'd prefer adding a gear somewhere in the more used range unless you need something at either top or bottom.

    Brad
    What does cassette/freehubs have to do with the OPs question?


    Trek330 why do you want another cog? First to get a 7spd FW on you hub you may need to repace and redish it Are you looking for a lower (easier) gear? Is you bike index shifting or friction? if friction your OK if index you need to switch to friction or upgrade shifters.

    Going from a 14-28 to a 14-34 will most likely require a sitch to a long cage rear derailleur to take up the extra chain wrap. Also since the jump between teeth is large shifting will not be as smooth.

    A bit of info on your current setup and or pics would be helpful
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

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    You only gain the 22 cog going from 14-28 6 spd to 14-34 7 spd. IMO a waste of a hole.... and as noted.. the chg to a long cage derailer.

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    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SortaGrey View Post
    You only gain the 22 cog going from 14-28 6 spd to 14-34 7 spd. IMO a waste of a hole.... and as noted.. the chg to a long cage derailer.
    So you don't get a lower gear with the 34?


    OH I see in my earlier post I did not specifically ask the OP if he was looking to gain a lower gear or just wanted 7spds for some random reason.
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '86 Bertoni (sold), '09 Motobecane SS, '98 Hetchins M.O., '09 K2 Mainframe, '89 Trek 2000, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    So you don't get a lower gear with the 34?


    OH I see in my earlier post I did not specifically ask the OP if he was looking to gain a lower gear or just wanted 7spds for some random reason.
    Yes you would.. I'm viewing from my own experiences.. where a 34 gives me no real world advantage over the 28. Yet a 34 might be useful for others of course.

    28-40 gets me up my 1/3 mi 12 degree grade hill.. I can make it with the 26-42 also. A good hill climber I am not.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    What does cassette/freehubs have to do with the OPs question?
    If what I remember is correct it's just a notification as I wouldn't want the OP to break an axle using a 7S freewheel.

    Brad

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    Quote Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
    If what I remember is correct it's just a notification as I wouldn't want the OP to break an axle using a 7S freewheel.
    Brad
    The width of a 7-speed freewheel is nearly identical to a standard spaced 6-speed freewheel and they both require 126 mm OLD hubs so the axle is in no additional danger from this change.
    The 7-speed may overhang the locknut a slight bit so a thin spacer may be needed to let the chain clear the dropout face but the overall width change will be minimal and redishing should not be required.

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    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    The width of a 7-speed freewheel is nearly identical to a standard spaced 6-speed freewheel and they both require 126 mm OLD hubs so the axle is in no additional danger from this change.
    The 7-speed may overhang the locknut a slight bit so a thin spacer may be needed to let the chain clear the dropout face but the overall width change will be minimal and redishing should not be required.
    +1 While 7 speed freewheel is almost identical in width, I often get chain rub on one of the stays or the dropout face, when I put a 7 speed freewheel on a six speed bike. The solution is a thin washer (or just stick with six speed).

    No axle issues.

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    tcarl
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    I've been using 7-speed freewheels for years and haven't had any broken axle problems. I wouldn't worry about that.

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    If your bike is indeed a 330 and has the original rear derailler a 28 tooth cog may be the limit. If you are wanting the 34 for lower gearing you have the alternative to change cranksets to use a 50/34. 52/42 is probably the original chainrings. That original crankset can only take a 38 as the smallest chain ring.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sedges View Post
    If your bike is indeed a 330 and has the original rear derailler a 28 tooth cog may be the limit. If you are wanting the 34 for lower gearing you have the alternative to change cranksets to use a 50/34. 52/42 is probably the original chainrings. That original crankset can only take a 38 as the smallest chain ring.
    What was the OEM crank on a Trek 330? Many older bikes came with 110 mm BCD cranks even if geared 52/42 so a 34T chainring could be used on them. My '92 Trek 1420 came with a Shimano DX (yes, DX, not LX) triple crank with 110/74 bcds and my son's '86 Panasonic Sports 100 came with an SR 110 bcd double crank.

  13. #13
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    Phil Wood Co's freewheel hubs solve the broken axle issue, but there is the cog plane wobble.
    Friction shift is not fussy, the 'Center-on' pulley has side-play to make that less of an issue,
    in klick shift schemes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    What does cassette/freehubs have to do with the OPs question?


    Trek330 why do you want another cog? First to get a 7spd FW on you hub you may need to repace and redish it Are you looking for a lower (easier) gear? Is you bike index shifting or friction? if friction your OK if index you need to switch to friction or upgrade shifters.

    Going from a 14-28 to a 14-34 will most likely require a sitch to a long cage rear derailleur to take up the extra chain wrap. Also since the jump between teeth is large shifting will not be as smooth.

    A bit of info on your current setup and or pics would be helpful
    I, just changed from a shimano 105 to a 600 RD.So I thought why not go another step to 7 gears.The bike is my 87' Pinarello Montello ,The trek was sold last year but my handle remains the same.Given I'd have to change the derailleur for a long cage I'm scrapping the idea of the 34t.I also switched my small front ring to 39t from42t so I've already improved my climbing ability.Maybe I'll go to a 13-28 7speed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    Phil Wood Co's freewheel hubs solve the broken axle issue
    So did Campy and Shimano. Broken axles with either of their 120 or 126 mm freewheel hubs were very rare.

  16. #16
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    What was the OEM crank on a Trek 330? Many older bikes came with 110 mm BCD cranks even if geared 52/42 so a 34T chainring could be used on them. My '92 Trek 1420 came with a Shimano DX (yes, DX, not LX) triple crank with 110/74 bcds and my son's '86 Panasonic Sports 100 came with an SR 110 bcd double crank.
    +1 I love those old 110 bcd cranksets. I routinely "borrow" some rings off a MTB donor bike, and instant compact crank. I have a 47/35 set on one bike right now.

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    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    In my somewhat limited experience I haven't seen a broken axle on a FW hub.
    OTOH, the majority I've seen have a bent axle.

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