Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2018 Post(s)
Two things change the bearing adjustment (preload) when wheels are installed.
1- the QR slightly compresses the axle when it's tightened. Most correct adjustments are slightly loose until the QR is tightened.
2- non parallel dropouts can bow the axle (flex it into an arc) which will tighten the bearing. The effects of bowing are greater than the QR compression and I suspect that's the problem. Watch both fork tips as you close the QR and if you see any movement, or change in angle, that's your problem.
Bowing not only tightens the bearing, but can cause a tight fitting seal to drag, either way it has to be attended to and making sure the tips are perfectly parallel.
In your shoes, I'd readjust the cones using stacked washers on both ends so I could adjust with the QR closed. This is also a good diagnostic (before re-adjusting) since if closing the QR on washers off the bike causes the drag you know that's the problem.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance