Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Remove v-brake posts- Carbon fork

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Remove v-brake posts- Carbon fork

Old 02-25-12, 06:54 PM
  #1  
Desert Rat
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal Desert Cities
Posts: 366

Bikes: GT Timberline (1990?), Trek 1100 (199?), Giant OCR3 (2007)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Remove v-brake posts- Carbon fork

Hi all, I just got a rigid carbon mountain fork at Nashbar and am wondering what I need to do to get the v-brake posts out. I am going to be using disc brakes and won't need them.

I have searched several places and found some information. It is said that heating the posts to relax the thread lock is needed sometimes. I have found nothing about trying this on a carbon fork.

I would like to know if heating the posts would damage the fork in any way. I have tried removing them and can't get them loose. I don't want to strip out the flats to the point they will be unusable.

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to get this done over the weekend.

Thanks in advance
Makeitso is offline  
Old 02-25-12, 07:30 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times in 723 Posts
"I am trying to get this done over the weekend."
What's your rush? The bike will be rideable with the posts in place. If it were me I would get the correct removal information from Nashbar before I went and did something which would damage the fork and/or viod the warranty.
dsbrantjr is offline  
Old 02-25-12, 08:52 PM
  #3  
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,954
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 185 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 75 Posts
AFAIK, either they unscrew or they are not removable. Honestly I would just leave them be if you can't unscrew them, they only add a few grams and it's not worth ruining your fork to take them out.
FastJake is offline  
Old 02-25-12, 09:46 PM
  #4  
Velocommuter Commando
 
Sirrus Rider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 2,683

Bikes: '88 Specialized Sirrus, '89 Alpine Monitor Pass, two '70 Raligh Twenties, '07 Schwinn Town & Country Trike, '07 Specialized Sirrus Hybrid

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 11 Posts
Originally Posted by FastJake
AFAIK, either they unscrew or they are not removable. Honestly I would just leave them be if you can't unscrew them, they only add a few grams and it's not worth ruining your fork to take them out.
Use them to mount a front mini-rack..
Sirrus Rider is offline  
Old 02-25-12, 11:48 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,648

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5756 Post(s)
Liked 2,524 Times in 1,395 Posts
Stupid question.

If you knew you didn't want brake bosses, and were immediately going to try to remove them (if possible), why did you buy a fork with bosses**********
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is online now  
Old 02-26-12, 12:34 AM
  #6  
Certified Bike Brat
 
Burton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 4,251
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
If there's flats on the posts then blue Loctite or an equivalent was used to mount them and doesn't require heat to release it. A wrench across the flats should do it.

If there are no flats the bosses were integrated into the fork and you're out of luck.

If they do come out, a plastic plug is acailable, and if they don't, a plastic sleeve will protect them from corossion.

Last edited by Burton; 02-26-12 at 08:42 AM.
Burton is offline  
Old 02-26-12, 11:16 AM
  #7  
Desert Rat
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal Desert Cities
Posts: 366

Bikes: GT Timberline (1990?), Trek 1100 (199?), Giant OCR3 (2007)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Yea, I think I'll wait and talk to Nashbar tech support and see what they say. Guess I'll have to ride with them on to start out with. Thanks for the input, just confirms what I was thinking.

A front mini rack? Hmm.

And for the stupid question answer, When I got this fork I was planning on using them. Have you ever heard of someone changing their mind? I am using it on a different bike now than the plan started out with. Maybe you should think before you talk. I am not going to throw it away and buy a new one without posts.
Makeitso is offline  
Old 02-26-12, 11:25 AM
  #8  
rebmeM roineS
 
JanMM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Metro Indy, IN
Posts: 16,216

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 653 Post(s)
Liked 347 Times in 226 Posts
With conversion to disc brakes, I struggled mightily to remove posts from a RANS aluminum fork. No flats - used ViceGrips and much effort. Impressed by the effectiveness of the threadlocker.
Replaced with boss plugs like these: https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=729930317885

Decided to leave the rear posts in place for the time being.
__________________
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
JanMM is offline  
Old 02-26-12, 11:39 AM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,648

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5756 Post(s)
Liked 2,524 Times in 1,395 Posts
Originally Posted by Makeitso

And for the stupid question answer, When I got this fork I was planning on using them. Have you ever heard of someone changing their mind? I am using it on a different bike now than the plan started out with. Maybe you should think before you talk. I am not going to throw it away and buy a new one without posts.
You don't know me or anyone else an explanation, and don't need to be offended. The question was rhetorical, and presented as a "stupid question". I asked it because you started the post "I just got...." which I inferred to mean a very recent purchase. So often on this forum we get questions from folks asking how to modify newly acquired items that weren't what they really wanted, but bought because they were cheaper, cooler or whatever, figuring they'd modify them later.

In your case, If it were still unused, I might have seen is I could exchange it for what I wanted paying the shipping and restock fee if any. But be that as it may, you can remove removable studs, leaving just the base pad. If they're not removable, you can saw them off and file them flush to the base, then touch up with paint or insert a plug. The result is identical to removing a boss, except that it isn't reversible.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is online now  
Old 02-26-12, 11:49 AM
  #10  
Desert Rat
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal Desert Cities
Posts: 366

Bikes: GT Timberline (1990?), Trek 1100 (199?), Giant OCR3 (2007)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by FBinNY
You don't know me or anyone else an explanation, and don't need to be offended. The question was rhetorical, and presented as a "stupid question". I asked it because you started the post "I just got...." which I inferred to mean a very recent purchase. So often on this forum we get questions from folks asking how to modify newly acquired items that weren't what they really wanted, but bought because they were cheaper, cooler or whatever, figuring they'd modify them later.

In your case, If it were still unused, I might have seen is I could exchange it for what I wanted paying the shipping and restock fee if any. But be that as it may, you can remove removable studs, leaving just the base pad. If they're not removable, you can saw them off and file them flush to the base, then touch up with paint or insert a plug. The result is identical to removing a boss, except that it isn't reversible.
I explained because I was offended by your stupid post comment. What did you think I'd be, happy? Not a great way to start off a conversation by saying a persons question is stupid.
Makeitso is offline  
Old 02-26-12, 12:02 PM
  #11  
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,598

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,355 Times in 862 Posts
[dousing Flame]
I vote for taking advantage of them being there as a mounting point for a front rack
to support small light bags and/or headlights..

hardware stores have plastic pieces called Thread protectors,
or a stack of O rings held on by a bolt,
that cover the bare metal .. for aesthetics

Last edited by fietsbob; 02-26-12 at 12:08 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 02-26-12, 12:08 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 95

Bikes: Daccordi 50 Anni no. 160 + 600 Tricolour, Mercian Strada Speciale 531c + SRAM Force/Rotor, Airnimal Chameleon + SRAM Force/Hope, Cannondale M600 Beast of the East, Own custom build 29er Joker 853 Ace of Hubs, 1953 curly Hetchins Experto Crede

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
@Makeitso - The way I read it, FBinNY was saying his was the stupid question, not yours. BTW, not a good idea to use heat on carbon.

Last edited by fr333zin; 02-26-12 at 12:12 PM.
fr333zin is offline  
Old 02-26-12, 12:19 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,648

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5756 Post(s)
Liked 2,524 Times in 1,395 Posts
Originally Posted by Makeitso
I explained because I was offended by your stupid post comment. What did you think I'd be, happy? Not a great way to start off a conversation by saying a persons question is stupid.

The opening "stupid question" was there to set a tone, and prevent offense, but apparently that didn't take.

Anyway, there's no reason to get worked up over the bosses. Lots of people are riding with unused bosses on forks and stays after conversion to discs. Some brand new bikes come with both canti boss and disc mounts because the company doesn't want to make 2 versions of the frame.

Rather than be offended for no reason, stop and consider your options.

1- if unused, exchange the fork for one you'll be happy with. Or sell this one and buy another. You'll eat a loss, but be happier in the end.

2- if you cannot exchangeor sell it, learn to live with the fork as is, and/or find a way to make use of the bosses, like for a light or front rack mount.

3- remove the boss down to the base either by unscrewing (if possible) or permanently by hacksaw and file.

Or you can feel free to vent your frustration at me. I have thick skin and can take it, if that helps.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is online now  
Old 02-26-12, 01:59 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: River City, OR
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I'd just mount a brake bridge/fork brace to those posts so it'd look like I knew whatwas doin'.
reddog3 is offline  
Old 02-26-12, 02:14 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: PDX
Posts: 641

Bikes: Trek 1200, Kona Honky Inc, PX Stealth

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Like mentioned, Heat + carbon = very bad. So would soaking it with any sort of chemical loosening agent like PB Blaster. You might be able to get away with a little tiny drop on the metal part itself but you would want to keep the chemical away from the carbon.
pityr is offline  
Old 02-26-12, 05:13 PM
  #16  
Desert Rat
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal Desert Cities
Posts: 366

Bikes: GT Timberline (1990?), Trek 1100 (199?), Giant OCR3 (2007)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by FBinNY
The opening "stupid question" was there to set a tone, and prevent offense, but apparently that didn't take.

Anyway, there's no reason to get worked up over the bosses. Lots of people are riding with unused bosses on forks and stays after conversion to discs. Some brand new bikes come with both canti boss and disc mounts because the company doesn't want to make 2 versions of the frame.

Rather than be offended for no reason, stop and consider your options.

1- if unused, exchange the fork for one you'll be happy with. Or sell this one and buy another. You'll eat a loss, but be happier in the end.

2- if you cannot exchangeor sell it, learn to live with the fork as is, and/or find a way to make use of the bosses, like for a light or front rack mount.

3- remove the boss down to the base either by unscrewing (if possible) or permanently by hacksaw and file.

Or you can feel free to vent your frustration at me. I have thick skin and can take it, if that helps.
It's all good, no problem.
Makeitso is offline  
Old 02-28-12, 12:24 PM
  #17  
Desert Rat
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal Desert Cities
Posts: 366

Bikes: GT Timberline (1990?), Trek 1100 (199?), Giant OCR3 (2007)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Here is what I did to get the posts out.

I called Nashbar for their advice on how to do this.
I put an adjustable wrench as tight as I could get it on the flats of the posts, heated up the tip of the post with a butane torch as I applied pressure to the wrench until the post came loose.
After I took the post out I touched the fork and it wasn't even warm to the touch. The post was slightly warm on the fork end and hot to the touch on the end I heated.
Makeitso is offline  
Old 02-28-12, 12:52 PM
  #18  
Certified Bike Brat
 
Burton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 4,251
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by Makeitso
Here is what I did to get the posts out.

I called Nashbar for their advice on how to do this.
I put an adjustable wrench as tight as I could get it on the flats of the posts, heated up the tip of the post with a butane torch as I applied pressure to the wrench until the post came loose.
After I took the post out I touched the fork and it wasn't even warm to the touch. The post was slightly warm on the fork end and hot to the touch on the end I heated.
So if the post end was only slightly warm to the touch heating it was probably incidental to removing the post. Any threadlocking compound I'm familiar with that needs heat to release it needs in the range of 400 degrees. But glad to hear you were sucessful!
Burton is offline  
Old 02-28-12, 01:00 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
himespau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,440
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4217 Post(s)
Liked 2,940 Times in 1,800 Posts
Did nashbar suggest that or did you just sort of figure it out on your own?
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?), 1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"





himespau is offline  
Old 02-29-12, 09:59 AM
  #20  
Desert Rat
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal Desert Cities
Posts: 366

Bikes: GT Timberline (1990?), Trek 1100 (199?), Giant OCR3 (2007)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I sort of figured it out on my own. Nashbar said don't put heat directly to the carbon fork so I didn't. I tried to remove it without the heat and all that was going to happen was stripping off the flats. The thread lock stuff looked green. There was some of the compound on the end of one of the posts.

Posts out, no damage = me happy.
Makeitso is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
12strings
Road Cycling
54
02-18-16 07:57 PM
prozko
Classic & Vintage
0
09-05-15 12:29 PM
kiltedcelt
Commuting
50
10-11-11 10:29 PM
aray989
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
17
05-23-11 10:53 AM
ryaneezy
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
3
05-06-11 04:43 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.