Why is it a bad idea to use automotive axel grease in my hubs?
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I keep two tubs, the first is marine boat trailer for bearings, and the is white Lithium for things like pedal threads, stems, seatposts etc that need a lighter coating....
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It is cheap, effective and readily available.
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And speaking of lubricants, what's the likelihood that small pricey bottles of "tenacious oil" started out in an industrial drum of chainsaw oil?
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I've set up a system where I have gone greaseless. By magnetizing my bearings and then running back current through the frame from my dynohub (you need to run this backwards), the system prevents all metal to metal contact. The key is to avoid stainless steel bearings and to clean out all remnants of grease, which prevents proper magnetic field inducement. This system is a spin-off of the turbo-encabulator research.
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So I take it that Park Polylube 1000 is too thin.
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This ''what grease is best" discussion is like asking which soap you like. My take is that you use some kind of soap (grease), and frequently, is the bigger issue. Andy.
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Yeah, don't fall in love with the color of the grease. There isn't a magic grease that is going to be better. It's not like conventional vs synthetic motor oil.
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You'd want to use a high temperature grease in a coaster brake hub, since the heat from braking is dumped into the hub. It is actually possible to exceed the working temperature of some greases in a coaster brake hub when controlling speed down a hill, causing a breakdown in lubricating properties.
Automotive grease is too thick for lubricating the internal mechanisms of IGHs. On their grease lubricated models, Shimano, SRAM and Sturmey all use magically light wt. grease.
Automotive grease is too thick for lubricating the internal mechanisms of IGHs. On their grease lubricated models, Shimano, SRAM and Sturmey all use magically light wt. grease.
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I've been using black Moly-D grease for years. Works fine. Tried white lithium grease and will never do that again. It dries into a gummy mess.. I used to pick up mountain bikes and hybrids cheap because the shifters "need replacing". Shimano used white grease to lube them. The pawls would be stuck. A quick disassemble and clean would do the trick. Used black grease to lube them. Also tried anti-sieze compound- no problems after a few years.
What grease you use is less important than how often you clean & repack.
What grease you use is less important than how often you clean & repack.
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I think the consensus of the forum is than any lube is better than no lube, whether it's bearings or chains (or seatpost or threaded parts). The specifics of what makes the "best" or most suitable is subject to debate.
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Aircraft grease. Scored a tube yrs ago.. very costly stuff via uncle Same. Appears not to break down and go crusty after extended use.. also tends to stay into the bearings.. rather than centrifuge out like the cheaper auto stuff. This stuff also tends not set up much with cold temps.
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I've set up a system where I have gone greaseless. By magnetizing my bearings and then running back current through the frame from my dynohub (you need to run this backwards), the system prevents all metal to metal contact. The key is to avoid stainless steel bearings and to clean out all remnants of grease, which prevents proper magnetic field inducement. This system is a spin-off of the turbo-encabulator research.
-G
-G
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I've set up a system where I have gone greaseless. By magnetizing my bearings and then running back current through the frame from my dynohub (you need to run this backwards), the system prevents all metal to metal contact. The key is to avoid stainless steel bearings and to clean out all remnants of grease, which prevents proper magnetic field inducement. This system is a spin-off of the turbo-encabulator research.
-G
-G
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Aircraft grease. Scored a tube yrs ago.. very costly stuff via uncle Same. Appears not to break down and go crusty after extended use.. also tends to stay into the bearings.. rather than centrifuge out like the cheaper auto stuff. This stuff also tends not set up much with cold temps.
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Dura-Ace grease is what I use for bearings, regular grease for bolts, stems, seatposts, etc.
#46
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elsewhere I've read '"Do NOT use automotive grease!"
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The black stuff separates over time. It's great for machinery with zerk fittings, but I much prefer the marine/automotive stuff for hubs.
a) Within reason: white lithium grease just doesn't cut it in hubs.
b) Which is why your black grease works for you. But others are probably not so diligent.
What grease you use is less important than how often you clean & repack.
b) Which is why your black grease works for you. But others are probably not so diligent.
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-G
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Even better is to use negative-mass bearings. They incorporate inverted dark-matter inside to overcome the mass of the outer-shell.