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  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Dec 2004
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    Philly, PA
    My Bikes
    1990 Merckx(C-Record) / 2005 Bianchi Pista. Had 3 Cannondales, 1987 Trek 660 with Shimano 600(sold), 1988 Basso with Shimano 600(- sold)1995 KHS track bike(old style Campy stuff - sold), 2001 Fuji track bike(modified - sold)
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    Crank Extraction When They're Ain't no Threads

    Arial Black

    I had a problem with cranks(1980 Campy BMX) that had no threads. Most mechanics use ball joint remover. It works but may cause unnecessary damage. The way around this is to purchase a tie-rod puller for about $12. The jaws fit behind you cranks while the screw pushes against the bottom bracket spindle(I used a small metal cylinder to keep the spindle threads from getting damaged. Works like a charm with no damage to crank arms or spindle

  2. #2
    Senior Member mtbikerinpa's Avatar
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    Dec 2004
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    92 Giant Sedona ATX Custom
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    The ball joint puller is a very good idea, but I would substitute a bolt for the 'metal cylinder'. A threaded in bolt is a lot stronger.
    If that Idea doesnt work(which it should) I have had last ditch succes with heat. That is if it is an aluminum arm. Heat makes the aluminum expand at a much higher rate than the steel, so it just takes a tap from a blunt force like a wood wedge ot in worst case a punch and hammer. The catch of that method is it eliminates any temper on the arm, thus the arm will be weakened so its a one time only trick.
    Aviation Mechanic, Bike racer, Fitness Equipment Restorer

    http://pedalmybike.com/userTrackies/myTrackie4758.jpg[/url]

  3. #3
    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    Mar 2003
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    Beaufort, South Carolina, USA and surrounding islands.
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    Cannondale R500, Motobecane Messenger
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    Any wonder why Campy's BMX stuff didn't sell too good?
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

  4. #4
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    Sep 2004
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    I got a frame with only one crank. The other had been removed, but the NDS extractor threads were stripped. I used it for hanging the frame while I painted it and then built it up save for that last arm.

    Remove the crank bolt/nut and go out and torque the hell out of it. I REALLY had to push and alternate with loving taps from a claw hammer. It finally loosened up. Be warned that it may very well round out the spindle hole, so it's a last-ditch-never-wanna-use-this-again technique.

    On the other hand, my mtb cranks loosen up all on their own, even after I torque down the nuts.

    Many shops can tap threads in the crank or even retap a larger diameter thread if the original threads have been stripped or crossthreaded.

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