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  1. #1
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    help with rebuild

    Hi, i bought a 1986 Fuji palisade, that needs some repairs. I bOught the bike for 150 and spent 150 in Parts it needs hubs rebuilt, calls,bales and just generalgreasing and tuning. I am new to bikes, but want to do it all myself. I took apart the hubs, but realize that i need come wrenches and other tools to fix the bike. I need help going it in riding condition, i just want to ride already Amy help I'd greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Senior Member cyclist2000's Avatar
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    Park toolsThe park tool web site will have directions and list the tools needed for each different job
    I don't do vintage, I bought them new, rode them, kept them. Now they are just old bikes
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/bustercrb/sets/72157623483647522/

  3. #3
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    Yes,i have read those pages lol, but i took the hub apart without doing out properly.like checking orientation of the parts. What tools and cleaners do i need to do this job? Do i also need to regrease the cranks ?

  4. #4
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
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    almost any grease will work and a degreaser, for tools you need cone wrenches like 15 MM .need more info on the cranks and bottom bracket to tell you which tools are needed .
    bikeman715

  5. #5
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    Can some one walk me though this reading of the hubs in simple terms?

  6. #6
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    Been there but need to start in the shallow end...

    ALL of us here started not knowing much about bike repair, working little by little to increase our experience and knowledge. The problem you are having is that you took a very difficult task - purchase and rebuild on an older bike - without sufficient knowledge about the size of the task, the costs in time and money, or the skills and knowledge needed to complete it.

    It is simply not practical to help you through the process over the Internet when you have not shown that you have first thoroughly educated yourself on each task required before taking it on. Once you understand what you are doing when overhauling a hub it is much easier to help with limited questions, as you can tell us what you have done and what is not working, using the proper terms (and spelling/grammar, please!).

    You are simply not going to "ride already" so you will have to be very patient. What you need is someone right there who is willing to help you through the process AND who truly knows the proper procedures. The other advantage is that such a person will have tools that you may only need once or twice, that are nonsense to buy for yourself.

    Anyone can give you advice on this forum, and you can easily be led down the wrong (expensive path) more than once.

    p.s. I would advise you to not disassemble any more bearings - a bike that has truly never been ridden should be able to get by without a bearing overhaul. Also do not remove the chain to clean it.
    Last edited by cny-bikeman; 03-31-12 at 06:55 PM.

  7. #7
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    Both of these things have already been done, i removed the chain and took aprat the hub. Why is this bad?

  8. #8
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Post a pic of the bits, and we can tell you what order they belong in.

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    https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bw4...STJ3cFFCZFpzUQ

    https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bw4...aEhkeWpQdTdJdw

    the top end in the second pic is correct, i never took that off, not sure about the other end.
    and also some recommendations for cone wrenches would be great.

  10. #10
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Okay, and I bet the freewheel is still in place... if so, here's what you do.

    Obviously the cone goes on first, it's followed by the plain locknut. Then the spacer, and the knurled black locknut, plain side in. But you're not going to put them on yet, cause you can't tighten them with the freewheel in place.

    So you screw the cone on, and you'll prolly have to hold a medium-small flat screwdriver against one of the flats to get it all the way down. Now tighten the plain locknut up to it. You won't get it very tight at all, but never mind.

    Now you have to undo the other side instead and pull the spindle out again (no need to take it right out, you just need to be able to get at the flats on the drive-side cone). Now you can tighten the drive-side locknut against the cone (crank that bugger as hard as you figure the locknut can take it; as you're finding out, it's a hassle when it comes loose). Put on the spacer and outer locknut, tighten that, then you can do up the left side.

    I see that's a quick-release spindle by the amount sticking past the locknut; for these you should leave a tiny bit of play. This will disappear when you do up the quick release. It often takes a bit of trial and error to get right, and since you did up the drive side nice and tight, you're able to be more accurate when tightening the other side, if you can start to figure out some of the tricks that involve tightening or loosening the NDS (non drive side) cone or locknut against the DS locknut before fully tightening NDS cone and locknut together. It's a bit of an art...

    Also, you can just attach images to posts, but you have to click the Go Advanced button first.

  11. #11
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    So i don't need cone wrenches to do this?

  12. #12
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    You totally need a cone wrench to do this. For the... cones.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaun413 View Post
    the top end in the second pic is correct, i never took that off, not sure about the other end.
    and also some recommendations for cone wrenches would be great.
    You already got one recommendation for Park Tool cone wrenches....
    I'll add a second recommendation for Park Tool. Buy at your LBS or large sporting goods store.

    As for assembling your hub, here's a hint... put the cone against the bearings. If you do that there is only one way the other parts will fit.

    Put it back together so it looks like the part that hasn't been removed.

    Perhaps you can correct the typos in your posts before submitting them... they are difficult to read. I'm still trying to figure out what "calls" and "bales" are in your first post....

  14. #14
    Senior Member LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Hmmm, seems to be an extra nut on that side. Maybe they ran out of the proper spacers.

    If you order parts in the pic from the bottom:
    4 (spacer)
    3 (extra nut)
    2 (cone)
    1 (lock nut)

    #4 being the spacer that's on the axle in pic.

    You can put them on thusly:

    3
    1
    2
    4

    or

    3
    2
    1
    4

    Use the "extra nut" as the locknut. IOW, tighten it against the cone.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Olde Western Auto Cruiser.

  15. #15
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    Hey guys, went to the store today. Decided not to overhaul the bottom bracket, it seems smooth enough. I bough a park tool rescue tool multitool and some citrus degreaser. I will order the cone wrenches soon. Do i need one or two cone wrenches? and anything else i need?

  16. #16
    Senior Member LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    You'll just need the one cone wrench for this job. Need to figure out what size. Probably 14 or 15mm. Probably a 17mm endwrench for locknuts.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Olde Western Auto Cruiser.

  17. #17
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    deleted
    Last edited by shaun413; 04-03-12 at 04:46 PM.

  18. #18
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    can anyone help me order these parts for the stem shifter? and how would i grease this? aka what spots to grease?
    https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bw4...HZpV2hDa1ZMdkk

  19. #19
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    I think you need to take pictures BEFORE you take things apart

  20. #20
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    Yah that's a good idea, but i didn't in this case so any help is appreciated.

  21. #21
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaun413 View Post

    can anyone help me order these parts for the stem shifter?
    Bwaahahahahahah... what planet do you think carries spares for crappy old 70s stem shifters?

    I think you need to find yourself a co-op or something; someone to give you some pointers IRL.

    Quote Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
    Hmmm, seems to be an extra nut on that side. Maybe they ran out of the proper spacers.
    Perfectly normal for a screw-on hub to have a locknut each side of the spacer on the drive side. It's a PITA when that cone comes loose...
    Last edited by Kimmo; 04-03-12 at 11:00 PM.

  22. #22
    Senior Member LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    I could figure it out if I had parts in hand, but can't do it from pics. Afraid the only Suntour roadie shifters I have are Power Shifters and their innards are significantly different. Oh, wait I do have some Suntour DT friction shifters... gimmee a minute. Wonder if I can get the pic out of lockdown...



    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    Perfectly normal for a screw-on hub to have a locknut each side of the spacer on the drive side. It's a PITA when that cone comes loose...
    I've been building up some new axlesets and I've just been going cone, spacer(s), locknut. Hope they do OK.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 04-03-12 at 11:16 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Olde Western Auto Cruiser.

  23. #23
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    well if anyone can help me piece it back together? i just need to know where the washer and the little gray round piece go. i have the rest. Which side of the lever? right? left? same sides? different sides? also i doo not need to order any parts, rather put them in order.

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