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Old 03-31-12, 04:38 PM   #1
jimwells41
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Is it possible to build a rear hub with 100 mm spacing? How?

I want to build a one speed rear hub with 100mm spacing (OLD). It looks to me like there are shells that would make this possible if my bearings, cones and locknuts are narrow enough. This guess is based on looking at a bunch of junk. Thanks in advance for your wisdom. Jim@321mail.us
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Old 03-31-12, 04:48 PM   #2
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If you have a shell narrow enough and cones to match, there shouldn't be any barrier to building a narrower hub. You might have some trouble finding a 10mm axe short enough, but then that's what hacksaws are made for.
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Old 03-31-12, 04:55 PM   #3
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use a tomicog or velosolo 6 bolt cog and a 6 bolt disc front hub.
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Old 03-31-12, 05:06 PM   #4
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There are two types of basic alloy rear shells...

Flange separation distance will be the same in both...there's nothing you can do about that.

However, the more traditional shell has the non-drive bearing race more outboard - i.e., that side of the shell will be about 17mm wide from flange center to edge of the shell. These are the shells typically used for 120mm and 126mm rear hubs common from the old days all the way through the 1980s. (Chosen TOP1RQR is a modern version...)

The other more modern basic shell has the non-drive bearing race more inboard - i.e., that side of the shell will be about 11mm wide from flange center to edge of the shell. These are the shells typically used for 130mm and 135mm rear hubs. Joytech 135mm rears and Chosen 135mm A1012s have this shell profile. One thing you'll notice with these shells when configured as 135mm is that there will be larger spacers or more spacers on the non-drive side of the axle.

That second shell mentioned is one where you have a good chance at reducing to 100mm OLD - so long as you can come up with 4.2mm lock nuts. Anything thinner carries a high risk of "stripping".

A Chosen A1012 with cones only and a 4.2mm locknut on each side will give you a basic rear hub with an OLD of 99mm - 100mm with threads for one single speed freewheel on one side only.

=8-)
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Old 03-31-12, 08:57 PM   #5
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4.2mm lock nuts. Anything thinner carries a high risk of "stripping".
I wouldn't say that; it's not like they have to be heaps tight. I can easily do up 3mm ones tight enough without the risk of stripping.

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use a tomicog or velosolo 6 bolt cog and a 6 bolt disc front hub.
Wow, the fact that such a product exists pretty much makes this the no-brainer option.
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Old 03-31-12, 09:50 PM   #6
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Use a Chosen A4082F threaded disc brake rear hub...

,,,and you can have a 110mm rear flip-flop hub with the tomicog on the disc side, and a single-speed freewheel on the other by converting with 4.2mm lock nuts.

Tomicog side would be pretty tight...but workable I think...

=8-)
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Old 04-01-12, 07:41 AM   #7
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Have to ask, what kind of frankenbike are you making that will use a repurposed fork for a powered wheel? Some kind of pedal car? SAE supermileage?
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Old 04-01-12, 10:07 AM   #8
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Yeah, what he said. WTF, Chuck?
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Old 04-01-12, 11:15 AM   #9
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Old-school track hubs are 110mm OLD; perhaps leaving off the washers might bring you closer to 100mm.

Otherwise, you can do what we did at Trek for an HPV project: cut the middle out of the hub shell and epoxy a sleeve over the cut to hold it together.
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Old 04-01-12, 11:17 AM   #10
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Sounds a tad sketchy O_O
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Old 04-01-12, 02:24 PM   #11
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Have to ask, what kind of frankenbike are you making that will use a repurposed fork for a powered wheel? Some kind of pedal car? SAE supermileage?
it could be front wheel drive.
I guess it's cheaper than just using a fork that will work with rear hubs, like a pugsley.
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Old 04-01-12, 02:59 PM   #12
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OK. Chosen has stuff that looks usable. Do they have a retail presence? I can just find Chinese wholesalers.
Thanks for the good ideas.
Jim
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Old 04-01-12, 03:00 PM   #13
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Good guess. If I told you what I am doing, I would have to kill you.
Jim
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Old 04-01-12, 03:03 PM   #14
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring.

Do you think that the ME, HERE, NOW generation gives a ff?

Jim
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Old 04-01-12, 04:02 PM   #15
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mrrabbit, I got your private message, but I can't return a message because I am too junior to this forum. Please send an email to jim@321mail.us so that we can continue this discussion.
Thanks
Jim
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Old 04-01-12, 04:34 PM   #16
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring.

Do you think that the ME, HERE, NOW generation gives a ff?

Jim
Lol, what?

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Old 04-01-12, 06:21 PM   #17
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Sounds a tad sketchy O_O
Not at all. Especially if you have tight interference fit with the sleeve from using a lathe. There is actually very little load on the hub shell's centre. Just some torsional-loads due to the torque from the right-side drive. If you have a 3 or 4x wheel, that reduces the torsion to negligible amounts.
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Old 04-01-12, 06:36 PM   #18
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Maybe I'm not getting your reasons for wanting to do this but is there some reason a hub with say 110-112 spacing which would be reasonably doeable with with a vintage hub and some tweaking wouldn't work.
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Old 04-01-12, 06:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AEO View Post
use a tomicog or velosolo 6 bolt cog and a 6 bolt disc front hub.
I built a fixed wheel for an old cruiser using a deore front hub and it works rather well... had a machinist friend drill out some plain bmx cogs I had laying around instead of buying drilled cogs but I gotta say this is the easiest way to go... not so handy if you want a freewheel though. Many old coaster brakes are 110mm spaced too, and you can buy new velosteel ones with a 105mm O.L.D.
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Old 04-02-12, 07:44 AM   #20
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Start with a track or single speed wheel. They are bolt wheels spaced for 120mm dropouts, so take out a spacer on the non drive side of the axle, re-dish, and you should be set.
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Old 04-02-12, 08:05 AM   #21
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Start with a track or single speed wheel. They are bolt wheels spaced for 120mm dropouts, so take out a spacer on the non drive side of the axle, re-dish, and you should be set.
Not that simple...

1. You need cone-to-cone distance to be well under 100mm before lock nuts are re-applied. (Some hub shells facilitate this, most don't.)
2. You need freewheel-stop-to-end-of-locknut distance to be such that freewheel and chain clearance from dropout, chainstay and seatstay are adequate.

=8-)
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4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
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