Chain washing machines bad?
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Chain washing machines bad?
Saw there hasn't been a new post on chain cleaning for a day or two and thought we better get back on it! But, really specifically, I read in a forum and just found on KMC's website this claim:
"NEVER EVER use a so-called ‘chain washing machine’ in combination with solvent. This is the one and only sure way to instantly ruin your chain."
That's it. No explanation of how one will "instantly" ruin the chain with a chain cleaning gizmo.
My plan (having received a gizmo for Christmas) is to run the chain through it every week or so, wipe it down, maybe dry it off with a blow dryer if it's not hot and sunny out and re-lube. Probably will take the chain off a couple times a year and really dowse it in solvent (plastic bottle trick), dry and re-lube.
So, how can KMC make that claim? Is there really a danger of ruining the chain, even if "instantly" is forgivable hyperbole?
"NEVER EVER use a so-called ‘chain washing machine’ in combination with solvent. This is the one and only sure way to instantly ruin your chain."
That's it. No explanation of how one will "instantly" ruin the chain with a chain cleaning gizmo.
My plan (having received a gizmo for Christmas) is to run the chain through it every week or so, wipe it down, maybe dry it off with a blow dryer if it's not hot and sunny out and re-lube. Probably will take the chain off a couple times a year and really dowse it in solvent (plastic bottle trick), dry and re-lube.
So, how can KMC make that claim? Is there really a danger of ruining the chain, even if "instantly" is forgivable hyperbole?
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"solvent"
That's the keyword...
=8-)
That's the keyword...
=8-)
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2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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As long as you don't use harsh solvents there is no way I can see any chain cleaner machine sold damaging a chain even with wrong cleaners I don't see it if you wipe down the chain and lube it with just about anything after .
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Suggest you ask the ****ber on the other fourm that question. The internet and forums are full of opinions, some (rarely) with data, most without.
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Chlorinated (mineral spirits) solvents are the monster.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...inated+solvent
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...inated+solvent
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If you want a recommended cleaner for your chain scrubber, I suggest Finish Line Citrus Degreaser. Then dump it out and use the scrubber again with hot sudsy water (Dawn dish detergent or whatnot) as your rinse cycle, dry the chain (blowing it out with compressed air is good, or a light lube that displaces water) and relubricate it. KMC is being ridiculous.
If your lube is simply getting depleted, you can always start by applying more lube and wiping off the excess.
If your lube is simply getting depleted, you can always start by applying more lube and wiping off the excess.
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Saw there hasn't been a new post on chain cleaning for a day or two and thought we better get back on it! But, really specifically, I read in a forum and just found on KMC's website this claim:
"NEVER EVER use a so-called ‘chain washing machine’ in combination with solvent. This is the one and only sure way to instantly ruin your chain."
That's it. No explanation of how one will "instantly" ruin the chain with a chain cleaning gizmo.
My plan (having received a gizmo for Christmas) is to run the chain through it every week or so, wipe it down, maybe dry it off with a blow dryer if it's not hot and sunny out and re-lube. Probably will take the chain off a couple times a year and really dowse it in solvent (plastic bottle trick), dry and re-lube.
So, how can KMC make that claim? Is there really a danger of ruining the chain, even if "instantly" is forgivable hyperbole?
"NEVER EVER use a so-called ‘chain washing machine’ in combination with solvent. This is the one and only sure way to instantly ruin your chain."
That's it. No explanation of how one will "instantly" ruin the chain with a chain cleaning gizmo.
My plan (having received a gizmo for Christmas) is to run the chain through it every week or so, wipe it down, maybe dry it off with a blow dryer if it's not hot and sunny out and re-lube. Probably will take the chain off a couple times a year and really dowse it in solvent (plastic bottle trick), dry and re-lube.
So, how can KMC make that claim? Is there really a danger of ruining the chain, even if "instantly" is forgivable hyperbole?
A "solvent" is anything that dissolves something else and makes a homogeneous mixture. Water is a solvent in seawater. Aluminum is a solvent in an alloy as is iron in steel. Nitrogen is a solvent in air. There are lots of other examples. In the case of chain cleaners, the type of organic solvent you use is more likely to damage the cleaner than the chain. The chain is very robust and organic solvents will take the oil off the chain without damaging the steel in the chain. If you have a lot of grit in the oil that you used on the chain, you may force the grit further into the chain which can damage the chain but the solvent won't. It certainly won't ruin it "instantly". Few things short of melting the chain can ruin it "instantly".
The major problem with chain cleaners is that they are ineffective and very, very messy. I own one and I think I've used it once. It was a royal pain to use. It sprayed solvent around like a male cat and really did nothing to clean the chain. Taking the chain off (use a master link and it's easy), cleaning it, drying it, installing it and lubricating it is actually less of a mess than the machine. If you use a lubricant that doesn't attract dirt and grit, i.e. a wax based lubricant, you can clean the chain once fresh out of the box and not have to worry about cleaning it ever again. Wax lubes work wonderfully in the dry high plains conditions of Wyoming and the Rockies.
You are essentially correct. However, short of salt water and long exposure times or mineral acids, there aren't many solvents that will damage the steel of the chain. I'd be more concerned about the incompatibility of the chain cleaner and some solvents. Mineral spirit and water based degreasers aren't going to damage the cleaner but something like acetone would. Acetone, however, is a very crappy solvent for chain lubricants.
The only chain lubricant that I can think of that isn't carried in a solvent is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil which is, I think, just a high viscosity oil. But that stuff is nasty and messy. If you use it, you should just shorten the process and throw a handful of dirt on the chain because it's going to get there anyway.
Chlorinated (mineral spirits) solvents are the monster.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...inated+solvent
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...inated+solvent
Second, the solvent in that thread wasn't 'chlorinated'. It was a water-based degreaser that was labeled as 'green mineral spirits'. And the problem was due to very long term storage...on the order of months...of a chain in a cleaner that might have been contaminated with chloride...probably from road salt. Having chloride ions in the solvent isn't the same as the solvent being 'chlorinated'. Very different chemistry and chemical process.
You could store a chain is a chlorinated solvent like TCE for decades and nothing would happen to the chain. You could also store the chain in regular mineral spirits, i.e. not water based, for the same time. As I demonstrated in the thread, you can't store a chain in a salt solution for more than a few weeks before it cracks.
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I have used one for over a decade on many bikes with zero issues. I use degreaser and rinse throughly before re lubing. The various issues reported out there with regards to harming the metal in the chain came after long term storage IN A BATH of SOLVENT. Who does this? Clean and dry yourt chain, lube it, and store it or use it. Wether or not you use a chain bath is a personal choice and you can read for days the various oppinions out here on the web. Forget all that. make a choice, maintain your bike and spend all the time saved actually enjoying the bike.
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I'm supposed to clean my chain ? I just lube & wipe every now & then.
I used to swish them around in a coffee can of solvent, then let them air dry for a few hours before re-lubing and installing. Too lazy now, and wonder if that actually puts grit inside the rollers that wasn't there before.
I used to swish them around in a coffee can of solvent, then let them air dry for a few hours before re-lubing and installing. Too lazy now, and wonder if that actually puts grit inside the rollers that wasn't there before.
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So much bad information.
A "solvent" is anything that dissolves something else and makes a homogeneous mixture. Water is a solvent in seawater. Aluminum is a solvent in an alloy as is iron in steel. Nitrogen is a solvent in air. There are lots of other examples. In the case of chain cleaners, the type of organic solvent you use is more likely to damage the cleaner than the chain. The chain is very robust and organic solvents will take the oil off the chain without damaging the steel in the chain. If you have a lot of grit in the oil that you used on the chain, you may force the grit further into the chain which can damage the chain but the solvent won't. It certainly won't ruin it "instantly". Few things short of melting the chain can ruin it "instantly".
The major problem with chain cleaners is that they are ineffective and very, very messy. I own one and I think I've used it once. It was a royal pain to use. It sprayed solvent around like a male cat and really did nothing to clean the chain. Taking the chain off (use a master link and it's easy), cleaning it, drying it, installing it and lubricating it is actually less of a mess than the machine. If you use a lubricant that doesn't attract dirt and grit, i.e. a wax based lubricant, you can clean the chain once fresh out of the box and not have to worry about cleaning it ever again. Wax lubes work wonderfully in the dry high plains conditions of Wyoming and the Rockies.
There are a couple of sentences in there somewhere. Whynotjustspeeduptheprocessandavoidthespacestoo?
You are essentially correct. However, short of salt water and long exposure times or mineral acids, there aren't many solvents that will damage the steel of the chain. I'd be more concerned about the incompatibility of the chain cleaner and some solvents. Mineral spirit and water based degreasers aren't going to damage the cleaner but something like acetone would. Acetone, however, is a very crappy solvent for chain lubricants.
In most cases, the lubricant is carried in a solvent. If you are using a oil based lubricant, adding more lubricant is driving the grit that grinds the chain to dust from the outside of the chain to the inside.
The only chain lubricant that I can think of that isn't carried in a solvent is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil which is, I think, just a high viscosity oil. But that stuff is nasty and messy. If you use it, you should just shorten the process and throw a handful of dirt on the chain because it's going to get there anyway.
You haven't learned what you think you've learned from that post. First, mineral spirits aren't chlorinated solvents. Chlorinated solvents are solvents in which one (or more) of the hydrogens on a aliphatic hydrocarbon has been replaced by chlorine. Chloroform, methylene chloride, trichloroethylene (brake cleaner and dry cleaner solvent) are chlorinated solvents. They don't have any deleterious effect on the steel in the chain but they are rather hazardous to the user.
Second, the solvent in that thread wasn't 'chlorinated'. It was a water-based degreaser that was labeled as 'green mineral spirits'. And the problem was due to very long term storage...on the order of months...of a chain in a cleaner that might have been contaminated with chloride...probably from road salt. Having chloride ions in the solvent isn't the same as the solvent being 'chlorinated'. Very different chemistry and chemical process.
You could store a chain is a chlorinated solvent like TCE for decades and nothing would happen to the chain. You could also store the chain in regular mineral spirits, i.e. not water based, for the same time. As I demonstrated in the thread, you can't store a chain in a salt solution for more than a few weeks before it cracks.
A "solvent" is anything that dissolves something else and makes a homogeneous mixture. Water is a solvent in seawater. Aluminum is a solvent in an alloy as is iron in steel. Nitrogen is a solvent in air. There are lots of other examples. In the case of chain cleaners, the type of organic solvent you use is more likely to damage the cleaner than the chain. The chain is very robust and organic solvents will take the oil off the chain without damaging the steel in the chain. If you have a lot of grit in the oil that you used on the chain, you may force the grit further into the chain which can damage the chain but the solvent won't. It certainly won't ruin it "instantly". Few things short of melting the chain can ruin it "instantly".
The major problem with chain cleaners is that they are ineffective and very, very messy. I own one and I think I've used it once. It was a royal pain to use. It sprayed solvent around like a male cat and really did nothing to clean the chain. Taking the chain off (use a master link and it's easy), cleaning it, drying it, installing it and lubricating it is actually less of a mess than the machine. If you use a lubricant that doesn't attract dirt and grit, i.e. a wax based lubricant, you can clean the chain once fresh out of the box and not have to worry about cleaning it ever again. Wax lubes work wonderfully in the dry high plains conditions of Wyoming and the Rockies.
There are a couple of sentences in there somewhere. Whynotjustspeeduptheprocessandavoidthespacestoo?
You are essentially correct. However, short of salt water and long exposure times or mineral acids, there aren't many solvents that will damage the steel of the chain. I'd be more concerned about the incompatibility of the chain cleaner and some solvents. Mineral spirit and water based degreasers aren't going to damage the cleaner but something like acetone would. Acetone, however, is a very crappy solvent for chain lubricants.
In most cases, the lubricant is carried in a solvent. If you are using a oil based lubricant, adding more lubricant is driving the grit that grinds the chain to dust from the outside of the chain to the inside.
The only chain lubricant that I can think of that isn't carried in a solvent is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil which is, I think, just a high viscosity oil. But that stuff is nasty and messy. If you use it, you should just shorten the process and throw a handful of dirt on the chain because it's going to get there anyway.
You haven't learned what you think you've learned from that post. First, mineral spirits aren't chlorinated solvents. Chlorinated solvents are solvents in which one (or more) of the hydrogens on a aliphatic hydrocarbon has been replaced by chlorine. Chloroform, methylene chloride, trichloroethylene (brake cleaner and dry cleaner solvent) are chlorinated solvents. They don't have any deleterious effect on the steel in the chain but they are rather hazardous to the user.
Second, the solvent in that thread wasn't 'chlorinated'. It was a water-based degreaser that was labeled as 'green mineral spirits'. And the problem was due to very long term storage...on the order of months...of a chain in a cleaner that might have been contaminated with chloride...probably from road salt. Having chloride ions in the solvent isn't the same as the solvent being 'chlorinated'. Very different chemistry and chemical process.
You could store a chain is a chlorinated solvent like TCE for decades and nothing would happen to the chain. You could also store the chain in regular mineral spirits, i.e. not water based, for the same time. As I demonstrated in the thread, you can't store a chain in a salt solution for more than a few weeks before it cracks.
Good god, man. We know that you're a scientist. We get it. You're of above average intelligence and have the encyclopedic knowledge to counter all of the posts here and to rebut the responses and then rebut those responses. Everyone is aware that you have the ability to share with us vast, expansive treatises on the myriad of cave man, lesser-brain topics which appear on BF.
It's a chain. Lube it, wipe it, when it makes noise, repeat. When it stretches 1/16", change it. Even if you got 15% more life out of your chain by Mr. Wizarding it, the savings is pennies per year.
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Good god, man. We know that you're a scientist. We get it. You're of above average intelligence and have the encyclopedic knowledge to counter all of the posts here and to rebut the responses and then rebut those responses. Everyone is aware that you have the ability to share with us vast, expansive treatises on the myriad of cave man, lesser-brain topics which appear on BF.
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Chain-cleaning threads just bring out the OCD in cyclists like nothing else.
I use KMC links on my chains, pop them off for cleaning, throw the chain in an old water bottle with a little odorless mineral spirits, agitate, remove chain, wait about one minute for mineral spirits to evaporate, re-install chain and lube. I can do this in less than 10minutes.
I like to avoid water when it comes to cleaning my chains.
Thank you Sheldon Brown (RIP).
I use KMC links on my chains, pop them off for cleaning, throw the chain in an old water bottle with a little odorless mineral spirits, agitate, remove chain, wait about one minute for mineral spirits to evaporate, re-install chain and lube. I can do this in less than 10minutes.
I like to avoid water when it comes to cleaning my chains.
Thank you Sheldon Brown (RIP).
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Maybe I'm not getting something when it comes to the chain lube clean thing I just use the better guaility PB-50 or WD40 witch ever is on sale and if a chain has issues just buy a nice new chain for under $10.
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Good god, man. We know that you're a scientist. We get it. You're of above average intelligence and have the encyclopedic knowledge to counter all of the posts here and to rebut the responses and then rebut those responses. Everyone is aware that you have the ability to share with us vast, expansive treatises on the myriad of cave man, lesser-brain topics which appear on BF.
It's a chain. Lube it, wipe it, when it makes noise, repeat. When it stretches 1/16", change it. Even if you got 15% more life out of your chain by Mr. Wizarding it, the savings is pennies per year.
It's a chain. Lube it, wipe it, when it makes noise, repeat. When it stretches 1/16", change it. Even if you got 15% more life out of your chain by Mr. Wizarding it, the savings is pennies per year.
And my cat actually leaves the house into the garage when I order her to...I kid you not!
And that ladies and gentleman makes me a genius....
[Assuming folks are still paying attention - as though they have to...]
1. Spray a lighter lube than the one used previously.
2. Wipe the crud away.
3. Spray the normal lube on liberally...
4. Wipe off the excess.
5. Ride the damn bike for crying out loud.
I expect to pay for a new chain once in a while. Anyone who thinks otherwise is going to be 1000X scarier than cycommute and I...
Trust me...
=8-)
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Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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"Chlorinated solvents are solvents in which one (or more) of the hydrogens on a aliphatic hydrocarbon has been replaced by chlorine. Chloroform, methylene chloride, trichloroethylene (brake cleaner and dry cleaner solvent) are chlorinated solvents."
Whatever. I'm over it.
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Having spent years in the electronics industry, I can confirm that cyccocomute is right about chlorinated solvents: they're dangerous, and mineral spirits is not one of them. They're highly carcinogenic and don't belong in anyone's garage.
If your position is "just ride the bike and ignore this technical stuff", why are you participating in this forum? Many of us like clean well-maintained bikes, for no logical reason, and are always interested in better ways to acheive that goal.
My own experience is that citrus-based degreasers have virtually no impact on tenacious wet lubes like Finish Line Green and are a waste of time. On the other hand, so-called "green mineral spirits" seems to work well, which surprises me; I'd like to know why it works, if it's actually water-based.
If your position is "just ride the bike and ignore this technical stuff", why are you participating in this forum? Many of us like clean well-maintained bikes, for no logical reason, and are always interested in better ways to acheive that goal.
My own experience is that citrus-based degreasers have virtually no impact on tenacious wet lubes like Finish Line Green and are a waste of time. On the other hand, so-called "green mineral spirits" seems to work well, which surprises me; I'd like to know why it works, if it's actually water-based.
Last edited by jim hughes; 03-27-12 at 12:27 PM.
#25
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Good god, man. We know that you're a scientist. We get it. You're of above average intelligence and have the encyclopedic knowledge to counter all of the posts here and to rebut the responses and then rebut those responses. Everyone is aware that you have the ability to share with us vast, expansive treatises on the myriad of cave man, lesser-brain topics which appear on BF.
It's a chain. Lube it, wipe it, when it makes noise, repeat. When it stretches 1/16", change it. Even if you got 15% more life out of your chain by Mr. Wizarding it, the savings is pennies per year.
It's a chain. Lube it, wipe it, when it makes noise, repeat. When it stretches 1/16", change it. Even if you got 15% more life out of your chain by Mr. Wizarding it, the savings is pennies per year.
Being informative and being pretentious are two different things.
"Chlorinated solvents are solvents in which one (or more) of the hydrogens on a aliphatic hydrocarbon has been replaced by chlorine. Chloroform, methylene chloride, trichloroethylene (brake cleaner and dry cleaner solvent) are chlorinated solvents."
Whatever. I'm over it.
"Chlorinated solvents are solvents in which one (or more) of the hydrogens on a aliphatic hydrocarbon has been replaced by chlorine. Chloroform, methylene chloride, trichloroethylene (brake cleaner and dry cleaner solvent) are chlorinated solvents."
Whatever. I'm over it.
What a chlorinated solvent is...and what isn't a chlorinated solvent...is a high school level chemistry question. I could have smacked down this kind of description of a chlorinated solvent
if I really wanted to be pretentious. Sorry if I didn't dumb it down enough. I'm not into dumbing down anything. I assume that if you don't want to read the boring pretentious Mr. Wizard stuff you can avert your eyes...no one is holding your head to the screen.
Yep. Pretty much is. Along with 'don't bore with the details, you egg headed buffoon'.
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!