Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-01-12, 09:09 AM   #1
WickedThump
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
WickedThump's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Bikes: Kona JTS Frankenbike
Posts: 542
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Help With Lower Gearing

My Trek 1.1 has 2300 STI with 50/34 and a Sun Race 12-25 cassette. On the flats it's fine but hills are a problem for me. Top end is more than adequate, but I definitely need a lower bottom end to negotiate the more interesting rides in my area.

What's the best way to go about this? While it'd be nice to swap some rings and cogs, I'm not adverse to replacing the current set-up with triple front and upgrade the whole she-bang to 105 or better. I like this bike a lot and plan to use it for quite awhile.
WickedThump is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-12, 09:44 AM   #2
Kimmo
bike whisperer
 
Kimmo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: copy/paste links: http://velospace.org/node/36949 http://velospace.org/node/47746 http://velospace.org/node/47747
Posts: 7,099
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Seems like you're going to need a long-cage RD whatever you do.

I'd go for a triple so as to keep my ratios reasonably close, and since that means losing the shifters, I'd replace em with Ergo for at least two reasons: they're a simpler and more reliable design, and the front shifting is all trim and no index, which IMO is way better, particularly when working a triple (if that's no longer the case I'd look for NOS).

Also, adverse is a different word to averse, which is what you meant.
Kimmo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-12, 10:35 AM   #3
WickedThump
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
WickedThump's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Bikes: Kona JTS Frankenbike
Posts: 542
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I was thinking of using bar-end shifters eventually, but would like them to be indexed.
WickedThump is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-12, 10:53 AM   #4
Kimmo
bike whisperer
 
Kimmo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: copy/paste links: http://velospace.org/node/36949 http://velospace.org/node/47746 http://velospace.org/node/47747
Posts: 7,099
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I've always found indexed front shifting a pain to set up so the trim positions do what they're supposed to; it's often a finnicky deal to avoid some chain rub.

Of course, bar-ends being essentially the same thing as DTs, you won't have that issue because you won't have STI's silly unidirectional lever mechanism necessitating some sort of index action; you'll feel essentially the same thing through your left lever that an Ergo user does.

Naturally, those of us who aren't rabid retrogrouches all prefer rear indexing.
Kimmo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-12, 10:53 AM   #5
jim hughes
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Bikes:
Posts: 461
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Agree with kimmo - a non-indexed front derailleur works better. With an indexed FD you will be continually trying to tweak it so no 'trimming' ever needed, and you will not succeed.
jim hughes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-12, 10:58 AM   #6
Kimmo
bike whisperer
 
Kimmo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: copy/paste links: http://velospace.org/node/36949 http://velospace.org/node/47746 http://velospace.org/node/47747
Posts: 7,099
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jim hughes View Post
With an indexed FD you will be continually trying to tweak it so no 'trimming' ever needed, and you will not succeed.
It's possible, particularly with 7spd, but you have to be willing to tweak your cage.

A shifter (adjustable wrench/spanner/whatever, you know what I mean) is the go, along with patience, moderation and a careful hand. That steel is brittle.

You have to think about it pretty hard in order not to worsen the front shifting... I was happy just to tweak my last FD to reach one more cog without rub.
Kimmo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-12, 11:03 AM   #7
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 7
Posts: 19,730
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 466 Post(s)
Yes Shimano, seems the bar end shifter for rear index/friction option.
now with11t cogs on cassettes you can get a sufficient high with a Mountain crank
44:11 = 48:12.. but 74mm bcd for the 3rd ring stops at 24t. MTB Compact type offers a 22t..

Way better than the 34:34, or at most a 34:36 keeping the compact double.
fietsbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-12, 03:35 PM   #8
shelbyfv
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Bikes:
Posts: 2,654
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
The simplest path to easier gearing would be a mtn bike cassette with a 32 or 34 large cog, a mtn bike rd and a new chain.
shelbyfv is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:43 PM.