thook

Last night, I was helping my buddy set up his Trek 520 with some Alivio cantis like these:

https://www.google.com/imgres?q=alivi...w=1024&bih=653

The cantis are from my early 90's GT mtn bike. They worked just fine last time I rode the bike with them on there. But, in helping him set up last night, we encountered several problems......I'm sure due mostly to ignorance of a proper set up. Then, maybe there's also equipment compatibility problems.

The levers being used are some cheap LeeChi drop bar levers. I think this may be part of the problem, but not sure. Oh, yeah. And, we're using some Tektro interruptors. The interruptors have great pulling advantage. Much more over the drop levers. With the drop levers, you have pull them further in towards the bar before the pads (Salmon pads...brand new) hit the rim.

So, to start.....

We cleaned everything and greased the canti bosses and pivot bushings of the canti's. The canti's seem to pivot just fine in their full range back to there return position. The bosses on the fork were kinda wonky, though. It was hard to even get the cantis on them. Until they were fully seated on the bosses, they were stiff to pivot......like the bosses are tapered larger towards the threaded end, or something. But, once bolted down, they pivoted. Not the case with the rear bosses. The canti's slid right on. Anyway, since the canti's seemed to pivoting fine once fully installed, we installed/attached the cables using the Shimano link wires. Then, came the problems.

On the front, only one side would return properly after the levers were actuated. As well, the pads didn't really grab with some power until the road lever nearly reached the bar.....at which point it was enough power to throw you over the bars. The rear, however, never attained as much grab......although, it would slow you down some. And, also only one side would return properly.

Is this a lever issue? And, does it sound like the return springs may be weak/worn out? Are there replacements available?

All new cables and housings, btw.

thook

Oh, and though I've read this article before, I'm going over it once again:

https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html

Maybe we need to ditch the link wire and go with traditional straddle cables and yokes to adjust mech. advantage?

Bill Kapaun

https://sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html
Maybe look at the "Spring Adjustment" part?

thook

Yeah, we toyed around with that last night, but apparently need to tinker some more.

The more I read and absorb the info on that article, the more I'm thinking the mech advantage needs to be tweaked front and rear, too. I mean, there's little braking on the front up until a certain point when the brake nearly locks up. And, the rear is just plain mush.

Still, are there replacement springs available? We have the springs set to the top most holes and it seems they could return a bit better than they do. But, then, maybe it's just me...lol!

dsbrantjr

"Maybe we need to ditch the link wire" I prefer the straddle cables myself. I also use these https://problemsolversbike.com/produc...cable_carrier/
What shape are the cables and housings in?

thook

Cables and housings are brand, spankin' new......as are the pads.

I've seen those wider carriers. I have a couple of older dia compe/weinmann carriers (I think.....atleast one, I'm sure) I thought to try that are kinda wide, but they're aren't nearly as wide as those. That page doesn't give a price. How much do those run?

Edit: Nevermind........I see they're about $13/ea.

Right....so, after taxes or shipping, it'd run about $30. I'll keep that in mind as a last resort, I suppose. Trying to keep the build within a budget......all that. Sheldon says the same effect can be achieved with a longer straddle wire. So, I suppose we'll try that first. Fortunately, it's a larger frame.

fietsbob

Think they dropped making that brake , check the dead parts bin at your LBS,
maybe they have an old pair to buy to cannibalize.

DannoXYZ 

Post a picture of your set-up. Levers and brakes.

thook

Thanks for all the replies. Not sure what we did differently, but we finally got the brakes dialed in while still using the Shimano cable links. I suppose just a combination of all pertinent angles and pad to rim distance and we got it right. Stops on a dime! Even able to lock up the rear wheel fairly well. Stops as well as the v-brakes on my mtn bike, now. Salmon pads are the bomb!

Again, thanks!

FastJake

If you tighten down the bolts too much that go into the studs, the studs get "mushroomed" at the ends and bulge out as you describe.

thook

Aye, but my comprade is not the original owner....nor was I when I sold it to him. I'd never built it up proper because I'd come to the final conclusion it was just too big for me and, then, I sold it to him. But, I'm sure neither of us did that. Possibly, if what you suggest is what happened, the previous owner did it not realizing.

Nevertheless, I'd not thought of that. Thank you!

gyozadude

Do those Alivio's need a 4 inch or so section of housing on the main cable that threads through the anchor bolt? Without out that narrow housing tube, the brakes don't recenter.

And I just did a canti install with some Shimano's and I used the middle anchor hole for the spring. It made for much lighter braking.

Just a few thoughts....

thook

Without that narrow housing, the brakes don't work at all...lol! Yeah, it's there. Thanks.

I'm pretty sure, after all was said and done, we have the spring set in the middle hole. But, I will double check it. Thanks, again.