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    dt24s

    I currently have a set of Fulcrum 5's for everyday use. I'm looking for some mid/higher end wheels when I want to take the bike out on weekends. The perfect wheel that goes great with my frame would be the Fulcrum 0's, but would rather not spend $1200. $800 is my top limit. I really like the DT Swiss DT240s hub for the rear wheel and wonder what would be a good rim to go with it.(Besides Mavic Open Pro)

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    open pros dont excite me either. what are you goals with the wheel set? velocity a23 or mavic cxp 33 just to throw some names out

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    Quote Originally Posted by reptilezs View Post
    open pros dont excite me either. what are you goals with the wheel set? velocity a23 or mavic cxp 33 just to throw some names out
    The Velocity a23's are something to look at. They look nice in a muted sort of way. I like to do group rides and do the occasional race. I also want something that won't break spokes easily(Higher spoke count) DT Competition spokes(Double butted, bladed). So Wheel weight is a compromise. I also like a hub that is nice and quiet. I know this hub isn't as quiet as shimano's ultegra/dura ace, but the wheels available don't match my frame very well.(Cinelli Xperience, white/silver, red lettering/logos). On the other hand it ain't no Chris King.

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    Senior Member Jed19's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by landdnl View Post
    The Velocity a23's are something to look at. They look nice in a muted sort of way. I like to do group rides and do the occasional race. I also want something that won't break spokes easily(Higher spoke count) DT Competition spokes(Double butted, bladed). So Wheel weight is a compromise. I also like a hub that is nice and quiet. I know this hub isn't as quiet as shimano's ultegra/dura ace, but the wheels available don't match my frame very well.(Cinelli Xperience, white/silver, red lettering/logos). On the other hand it ain't no Chris King.
    For your goals, I'll recommend the Kinlin XR-300. It is a 30mm rim that has some decent aerodynamics capability and is also not too heavy. And with the right selection of spoke count and the right spokes, can also be constructed into a wheelset that is stiff enough without being brutal.
    Regards,

    Jed

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jed19 View Post
    For your goals, I'll recommend the Kinlin XR-300. It is a 30mm rim that has some decent aerodynamics capability and is also not too heavy. And with the right selection of spoke count and the right spokes, can also be constructed into a wheelset that is stiff enough without being brutal.
    Thanks for the advice. I think i'll go with the Kinlin XR-300 rims, DT240s hub, and Sapim CX-Ray butted race spokes with Sapim brass nipples. One final question. I weigh 185 lbs. and wonder what spoke count I should get for the front and rear. Sorry it took so long to respond. I was on vacation for a week. Thanks again for the help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by landdnl View Post
    Thanks for the advice. I think i'll go with the Kinlin XR-300 rims, DT240s hub, and Sapim CX-Ray butted race spokes with Sapim brass nipples. One final question. I weigh 185 lbs. and wonder what spoke count I should get for the front and rear. Sorry it took so long to respond. I was on vacation for a week. Thanks again for the help.
    I think you are good at 24/28 at 185 Ibs. That combo will be a stiff enough wheelset with the Kinlin XR-300.
    Regards,

    Jed

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jed19 View Post
    I think you are good at 24/28 at 185 Ibs. That combo will be a stiff enough wheelset with the Kinlin XR-300.
    most likely a good recommendation.

    i'm at 150 and built up a set of wheels with the xr-200 (a lighter rim) with wheelsmith 1.5/1.8 ga. spokes and alloy nips. 28h/28h. they may be overbuilt for me. i'm thinking i could have gone 24/28 or maybe even 20/24.

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    I"m sure this has been talked about "ad nauseum", but what are some of the quietest hubs out there besides ultegra and dura-ace(they don't come in black). The DT 240s isn't real quiet especially if you upgrade from 18 to 36 star ratchet. The Alchemy & the Ligero hubs sound pretty quiet(Especially the Ligero), although I have no idea if they had grease added to the paws, which by the way I would rather not do when I'm riding in cold weather. What about Goldtec hubs? The reason I'm considering a quieter hub is that one of my weekend rides is a solo ride early in the AM on a bike path adjacent to wetlands with a plethora of wildlife sounds. I would rather hear the sounds of the wildlife as opposed to my hub along the way. On the return trip I'm peddling hard the whole way so hub noise is not an issue. I would like to hear more about the quality/durability of the Ligero hubs if anybody has any experience with them and where would I be able to purchase one. On a side note I was wondering why is it that on white rims the hole count is than than standard colored rims. Just wondering.

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    Dude, just paint some Shimano hubs.

    Nobody makes a better rear hub than Shimano, because Shimano are the only ones who make a proper freehub. There are plenty of blingy alternatives for sure, but each and every one of them has the DS axle bearing inboard of where it would be on a screw-on hub, and thus inherently suck and are over-engineered to compensate.

    Quote Originally Posted by landdnl View Post
    peddling
    Oh yeah, there's quite a difference between peddling and pedalling.

    Also, if you want a sweet wheelset, you'd be nuts not to make an OCR a must, since it gives you more strength without a weight penalty.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    Dude, just paint some Shimano hubs.

    Nobody makes a better rear hub than Shimano, because Shimano are the only ones who make a proper freehub. There are plenty of blingy alternatives for sure, but each and every one of them has the DS axle bearing inboard of where it would be on a screw-on hub, and thus inherently suck and are over-engineered to compensate.


    Oh yeah, there's quite a difference between peddling and pedalling.

    Also, if you want a sweet wheelset, you'd be nuts not to make an OCR a must, since it gives you more strength without a weight penalty.
    What's wrong with a White Industries H3?

    I have wheels with Ultegra, Dura-Ace, DT240, and White Industries hubs, never mind my prefab Campy and Mavic wheelsets.

    For a heavier rider - and 185 lbs is IMO - I'd say a steel freehub is worth paying the weight penalty, or pay a premium for a titanium freehub, which IIRC is limited to Dura-Ace and White Industries hubs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
    Dude, just paint some Shimano hubs.

    Nobody makes a better rear hub than Shimano, because Shimano are the only ones who make a proper freehub. There are plenty of blingy alternatives for sure, but each and every one of them has the DS axle bearing inboard of where it would be on a screw-on hub, and thus inherently suck and are over-engineered to compensate.

    I agree that Shimano has the best/quitest hub that I know of. I was hoping there was an alternative that was nearly as quiet. I'm not familiar at all with the OCR wheelset. I did a quick search and it looks like they're mountain bike wheels. I was needing a road bike build. Correct me if I'm wrong. Mountain bike review rated these 3.6/5. Most of the complaints were because of broken spokes. But this could be the wheel wasn't set up properly to begin with. Oh yeah, no wonder I'm having trouble riding my bike. I was trying to peddle my bike instead of pedaling! Hope this takes care of my idle problem. And no, my bike's not for sale!
    Last edited by landdnl; 04-29-12 at 07:27 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by landdnl View Post
    I agree that Shimano has the best/quitest hub that I know of. I was hoping there was an alternative that was nearly as quiet. I'm not familiar at all with the OCR wheelset. I did a quick search and it looks like they're mountain bike wheels. I was needing a road bike build. Correct me if I'm wrong. Mountain bike review rated these 3.6/5. Most of the complaints were because of broken spokes. But this could be the wheel wasn't set up properly to begin with. Oh yeah, no wonder I'm having trouble riding my bike. I was trying to peddle my bike instead of pedaling! Hope this takes care of my idle problem. And no, my bike's not for sale!
    By OCR, he's not talking about mountain bike wheels. OCR means off center rims, in Kimmo's usage. Off center rims in the hands of a very capable wheel builder can result in very strong wheels. Especially rear wheels.
    Regards,

    Jed

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jed19 View Post
    By OCR, he's not talking about mountain bike wheels. OCR means off center rims, in Kimmo's usage. Off center rims in the hands of a very capable wheel builder can result in very strong wheels. Especially rear wheels.
    Well you can tell I'm a newbie when it comes to bikes. I've just started riding a couple of years ago. But just in the last 6 months i've been getting a little more serious about riding. I just completed my first bike build 2 months ago. The first time I ever rode a road bike. Thanks for clearing up my ignorance.

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    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    The spoke holes in an off-centre rim are moved to the left, meaning the left spokes get a lot more tension than usual, and are closer to the tension of the right side. Free strength.

    Ritchey does OCR wheelsets (eg), not sure if you can get the bare rims. There's the Velocity Aerohead OC, which is quite light at about 405g IIRC; for 185lb guy I'd recommend that at 32h with a 25mm rear tyre; for the front a regular Aerohead at 28h or even 24h (definitely need a tensionmeter for that build) and a 23mm tyre. I think there might be handful of other road OCRs, but OCR is a crappy search term.

    Quote Originally Posted by achoo View Post
    What's wrong with a White Industries H3?
    Well, unless they've licensed Shimano's design (which nobody has to my knowledge), it's not a real freehub, because the freewheel mechanism isn't really between the axle bearings (even though it might look that way). Pretty much all these non-freehub cassette hubs are mechanically halfway between a freehub and a screw-on hub, in that they accept cassettes, but they don't have a shorter length of unsupported axle on the drive side. In fact, it's longer than it'd be on a screw-on hub.

    This long bit of axle tends to get bent or broken on screw-on hubs, but this is generally countered on cassette hubs by the engineers just throwing more metal at the problem, rather than paying to use Shimano's way. Which is THE way to lay out a rear hub, no question. Shimano tried everyobody else's way on a single generation of Dura-Ace (dunno why they bothered), and rightfully concluded it wasn't the way to go.

    I reckon Shimano should swap their freehub for Campy's Ergo. STI is a rubbish idea, and the new sleek ones are even sillier.

    Interesting to note that Shimano pioneered the cassette hub (by a long way, AFAIK) and got it right, and that they also pioneered brifters and got it all wrong. Campy and Sachs had to put their heads together to catch up, but they aced it with the most simple principle and consequently elegant design.

    Pretty much everything else Shimano does is gold, though... with the horrifying exception of recent efforts at crank styling.

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