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  1. #1
    Lover of Old Chrome Moly Myosmith's Avatar
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    Pulling crank on Octalink BB

    I need to pull the crankset on a bike with an Octalink BB but the only crankpuller I have is for square taper BBs. Will the Park square taper puller work with an Octalink BB or do I need to purchase a separate puller or take the bike to the shop to have the crankset removed?
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    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Park Tool makes several pullers. If you have the CWP-7, then yes it can. Pull the small tip off the puller core and stick the big one on (they're retained by O-rings).

    Make sure to remove the thin ring-shaped washer from under the crank bolt before trying to extract the crank... that washer is easy to overlook.

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    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Does your Octalink crankset not have self-extracting rings threaded into the crankarms? If so, don't remove them. Leave them in, and when you unscrew the crankbolt the crankarm will back out against the self-extactors and the cranks will come off the bb spindle.

  4. #4
    Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race dddd's Avatar
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    There is a "plug" that Shimano makes for removing Octa arms with a regular old puller.

    The part number is: TL-FC15

    http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TL-FC1.../dp/B000R398XK

    Alternately, I've used a very thick washer of the needed diameter to make the regular puller push on the end of the Octa spindle.

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    Senior Member MudPie's Avatar
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    The Octalink crank arm requires the puller to have a larger surface than a square taper puller. Although I've never tried, I read somewhere that someone used a dime at the interface between the square taper puller and Octalink arm. (This could be an urban myth).

  6. #6
    Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race dddd's Avatar
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    Last edited by dddd; 04-16-12 at 08:22 PM.

  7. #7
    Lover of Old Chrome Moly Myosmith's Avatar
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    Does your Octalink crankset not have self-extracting rings threaded into the crankarms?]
    I don't know. This is the first Octalink BB I've dealt with and I haven't had the crank off yet. I'll give it a try and see. I forgot about self extracting cranks. Thx

    There is a "plug" that Shimano makes for removing Octa arms with a regular old puller.
    The part number is: TL-FC15
    Alternately, I've used a very thick washer of the needed diameter to make the regular puller push on the end of the Octa spindle.
    Thx for the info
    Lead, follow or get out of the way

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    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myosmith View Post
    I don't know. This is the first Octalink BB I've dealt with and I haven't had the crank off yet. I'll give it a try and see. I forgot about self extracting cranks. Thx
    Here's a pic of Octalink cranks. The self extractor is the little ring you can see in the center of the crank. If your cranks have these, which they probably do, then you don't need a crank puller to remove your cranks. Just leave the self extractors in place and unscrew the crank bolts. The cranks will be pulled off the spindle as you do so-


  9. #9
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    The TL-FC15 "Mushroom tool" was provided with every set of aftermarket 105 Octalink cranks since they did not have the self-extractor bolts. Check with any older LBS as they may have a few leftovers.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Iowegian's Avatar
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    If this is your first set of octalink cranks, be careful if/when you re-install them. It's not hard to muck up the interface if you start tightening them in the wrong position.
    IOW, make sure the cranks are in the correct position (properly and fully engaged with the spindle) before you crank down on the bolt.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iowegian View Post
    If this is your first set of octalink cranks, be careful if/when you re-install them. It's not hard to muck up the interface if you start tightening them in the wrong position.
    IOW, make sure the cranks are in the correct position (properly and fully engaged with the spindle) before you crank down on the bolt.
    Excellent point. I have a couple of Ultegra Octalink cranks that do have the self-extractors but I always remove the outer collar before reinstalling them so I can look inside the crank hole and be certain the splines mesh properly and completely. It's remarkably easy to have the splines butt end-on together rather than intermesh and, if that isn't corrected, the cranks will be ruined the first time you ride.

  12. #12
    Retro Grouch onespeedbiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dddd View Post
    There is a "plug" that Shimano makes for removing Octa arms with a regular old puller.

    The part number is: TL-FC15

    http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TL-FC1.../dp/B000R398XK
    So that's what that is. I've had that mushroom thingy siting in my tool box for over 10 years and I never knew what it was for; I just bought another crank puller..Thanks

  13. #13
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Excellent point. I have a couple of Ultegra Octalink cranks that do have the self-extractors but I always remove the outer collar before reinstalling them so I can look inside the crank hole and be certain the splines mesh properly and completely. It's remarkably easy to have the splines butt end-on together rather than intermesh and, if that isn't corrected, the cranks will be ruined the first time you ride.
    With V2 Octalink, which covers all the mountain series cranks except XTR I believe, it's easier to get things started right than with V1. The splines are deeper on V2 and it's much easier to get the splines started correctly. In fact, once you get things lined up, you can shove the cranks most of the way onto the spindle by hand, which fully engages the splines and then some, before you even begin tightening the crank bolt. Still, removing the self extracting collar lets you see what you are doing in getting things lined up, as you said.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by well biked View Post
    With V2 Octalink, which covers all the mountain series cranks except XTR I believe, it's easier to get things started right than with V1. The splines are deeper on V2 and it's much easier to get the splines started correctly. In fact, once you get things lined up, you can shove the cranks most of the way onto the spindle by hand, which fully engages the splines and then some, before you even begin tightening the crank bolt. Still, removing the self extracting collar lets you see what you are doing in getting things lined up, as you said.
    Yeah, the narrower splines on both the crank and bb spindle do make installing a V-1 Octalink a bit more touchy but, once the splines are aligned properly you can seat them nearly full depth just by hand. That's why being able to see what's going on inside is so important. You have to see that the spindle end is nearly flush with the ends of the splines in the crank arms.

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