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Old 12-30-04, 08:43 PM   #1
hi565
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Pedal installetion

Is it hard to install a pedal? (shimano ultegra) If i wont ruin anything how do you do it? If i run the cha nce of hirting something i will bring it to the bike shop. thanks
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Old 12-30-04, 08:51 PM   #2
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Installation*
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Old 12-30-04, 09:04 PM   #3
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Its very easy. lightly grease the threads of your pedal, make sure you use washers between the pedal and the crankarm and keep in mind on the right side is right hand thread and left side left hand thread. Also you will need either a pedal wrench (15mm) or hex key, i need a 6mm for my pedals.
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Old 12-30-04, 09:07 PM   #4
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It's easy if you have a good 15mm wrench. The trick is that the left pedal has reverse threads, so it threads in anti-clockwise and is loosened clockwise. The right pedal is threaded normally. Grease the threads before installing them. The problem you might run into is that your original pedals may been threaded on too tightly and a normal length wrench might not have the torque to loosen them. If that's the case, you might need to take them to your LBS.
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Old 12-30-04, 09:20 PM   #5
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I Dont think i should mess with them and i am probably going to take them to a LBS. Except my dad is FOR doing our selves.
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Old 12-30-04, 09:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomcow2
... make sure you use washers between the pedal and the crankarm .........
Why? Neither pedals or crankarms , nor new bikes come with them,and have never used them on about a bizillion bikes.
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Old 12-30-04, 09:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hi565
I Dont think i should mess with them and i am probably going to take them to a LBS. Except my dad is FOR doing our selves.
I tend to agree with your dad - best way to learn is by doing. You may have to invest in a pedal wrench, but it will pay for itself with a few pedal installations and removals.

I agree with Sydney - I've never used washers at the pedal and crank interface.

Remember, when the previous posters say "clockwise", that is viewed as you look at your bike from the respective side. Also, left pedals (which are reverse threaded) usually have an "L" (left hand thread) stamped into the wrench flats of the pedals (or somewhere near).
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Old 12-30-04, 09:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydney
Why? Neither pedals or crankarms , nor new bikes come with them,and have never used them on about a bizillion bikes.
I have one crankset that came with pedal washers and instructions to use them. I have four that did not come with washers and I do not use washers behind the pedals on them.

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Old 12-30-04, 09:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hi565
Is it hard to install a pedal? (shimano ultegra) If i wont ruin anything how do you do it? If i run the cha nce of hirting something i will bring it to the bike shop. thanks
It's as easy as installing a light bulb.
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Old 12-30-04, 10:02 PM   #10
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Washers?...That's a new one. The easy thing to remember about removing pedals is on BOTH sides of the bike to push the pedal wrench DOWN toward the rear tire, thereby unthreading the pedal. Obviously, the opposite occurs when reinstalling pedals. They're screwed in by turning them on BOTH sides of the bike toward the front tire.
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Old 12-30-04, 10:17 PM   #11
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I dotn know, i just read it from the truvativ manual i got. i have a stylo team model and it comes with little washers, they are in the crankarm itself.
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Old 12-30-04, 11:30 PM   #12
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Washers?

On the pedal instal make sure to use the recommended pedal wrench (15mm) or hex key. other than that, you turn the wrench towards your front wheel to tighten.

Easiest thing to do on a bike.
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Old 12-30-04, 11:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydney
Why? Neither pedals or crankarms , nor new bikes come with them,and have never used them on about a bizillion bikes.
My Truvativ cranks came with them. If you check the manual http://www.truvativ.com/manuals/cr-4arm-e-r4.pdf under the heading "Parts and Tools" you'll see it listed. It's also mentioned and diagrramed in step 5 of assembly
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Old 12-31-04, 12:44 AM   #14
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Ive never seen them with washers but the idea makes perfect sense. If you have a burr on your pedal spindle it can over time work like a little end mill on the arm. I have seen many arms with a recess milled in from such a thing. I think Ill look for some now...
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Old 12-31-04, 02:53 AM   #15
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You know, a newbie fitting a pedal shouldn't be told make sure you have a pedal wrench handy.

I tell everyone who does a bike course with me, don't use force. Be gentle. Bikes and people respond to gentleness. You have to be ultra careful with alloy cranks in particular that you don't crossthread the spindle thread from the get-go. Crossthread an alloy crank and you're basically stuffed.

If you meet a bit of resistance (any resistance) screwing the spindle in and feel tempted to go for the pedal wrench, DON'T!. Start again. If you feel unwarranted resistance, check the threads for burring or other damage. You should be able to screw a greased pedal spindle into the crank all the way with your fingers WITHOUT the assistance of a pedal wrench. The wrench comes at the end to secure the threads.

If your pedals have an allen key hole in the end, use that with an allen key (obviously) to torque down the pedal. Using a pedal wrench leads to the temptation to reef down the spindle far too tightly. The BFs are rife with posts from people trying to undo pedals that have been reefed down by bikeshop jocks (as opposed to qualified bike shop mechanics) who have no idea of what they are doing. The fact that pedal wrenches seem to come with 12" or more of leverage seems to compound the problem.

Finally, if you simply can't get a thread started (rotating anticlockwise, feel the "click" then rotate clockwise), then you're trying to put a left-hand pedal into a right-hand crank. Left-hand pedals have a reverse thread -- you have to put them in by rotating the spindle ANTI-clockwise.
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Old 12-31-04, 02:57 AM   #16
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Quote:
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The fact that pedal wrenches seem to come with 12" or more of leverage seems to compound the problem.

.
They fail to realize that the leverage is for REMOVING stuck pedals not making them stuck
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Old 12-31-04, 03:59 AM   #17
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The thing that I remember to get the pedal in right is the pedal as a safety feature has to screw in the way the crank turns normally. This is so you can not unscrew the pedal with the force of cranking down on them. Obiously that is turning the wrench towards the front tire as they said.

The trick to getting off tight pedals is to use two long pedal wrenches one of each pedal with braker bars... losen each pedal together. You use the oposite motion of the crank arms to effectivly lock the crank and make the pedals come out...

Make sure the pedals are tight...
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Old 12-31-04, 08:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raiyn
My Truvativ cranks came with them. If you check the manual http://www.truvativ.com/manuals/cr-4arm-e-r4.pdf under the heading "Parts and Tools" you'll see it listed. It's also mentioned and diagrramed in step 5 of assembly
I would not argue that some cranks may come with them and in some circumstances might be required or a good idea. It's just not SOP.
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Old 12-31-04, 11:00 AM   #19
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well even it is not needed, my truvativ came with them and i figure why not, it isnt going to hurt anything regardless
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Old 12-31-04, 01:40 PM   #20
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One more safety tip hope it's not too late make sure to shift to the big chain ring in the front so in case you slip ....
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Old 01-03-05, 09:14 AM   #21
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I'd recommend using never-sieze type thread lubricant over grease when installing pedals.
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Old 01-03-05, 09:21 AM   #22
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I'd recommend using never-sieze type thread lubricant over grease when installing pedals.
Duno why unless you own an anti-sieze company. Grease works.Most important thing is not to overtighten.
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Old 01-03-05, 09:23 AM   #23
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That sig is ********.
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Old 01-03-05, 09:42 AM   #24
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No need to tighten pedals harder then anything else. As long as they are not falling off it's ok since they will tighten themselves over time. Or atleast stay tight. Just make sure you dont have any play and you will be good to go.
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Old 01-03-05, 09:50 AM   #25
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No need to tighten pedals harder then anything else. As long as they are not falling off it's ok since they will tighten themselves over time. Or atleast stay tight. Just make sure you dont have any play and you will be good to go.
Well, that's the theory,but they aren't always self tightening.Bad or sticky bearings can cause them to loosen.It does happen.
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