mattdd60

Any suggestions on a raising my Trek 520 handlebars? I am 6'1" tall and feel that an added inch or two on the handlebar height would make my ride a bit more comfortable.

Is there anything I should watch out for or be aware of in this process?

Also, what is a good source for the stem parts (spacers) needed to do this job?

LarDasse74

Most bikes are not set up to simply add spacers under the stem. THe stem is clamped onto the top of the steerer tube of the fork. SOmetimes bikes are set up with spacers underneath and on top of the stem so there is room to adjust, but unless you already have spacers above the stem to remove and make room to slide the stem up, the stem cannot go any higher. WHat you can do is replace a stem with little rise with one with more rise, or an adjustable one. Also, if you want more than an inch or two of rise, you can consider using a steerer tube extender.

What size bike do you have? It certainly is not uncommon to want a higher stem, even if the bike is the correct size, but larger frame sizes on most touring bikes have taller head tubes and so need less modification to get the bars higher.

Retro Grouch 

Ah, the curse of threadless stems.

If you only need about one additional inch of rise, you can sometimes get it by reversing the stem on the steerer tube.

If you are looking for 2 or 3 inches, a stem with a steeper rise angle can give you that. The thing to think about is, as the angle increases, it also moves the handlebar closer to you, so you have to really think about angle vs. stem length.

More rise than that and you're talking about a steertube extender. It's not as bad of a solution as it sounds. Frankly, I think that a heqdtube extender with a flatter stem looks better than using a stem that has a steep rise angle.

Hendo252 

I went through this recently on my 1983 Trek 620.

I presume from your question (and my experience) that you have your existing stem up as far as you can but still want another inch or so.

The easiest/cheapest is to replace your existing fixed stem with one that will allow a higher extension, or let you adjust the angle. This lets you get the bars up quite a bit. This allows you to keep your existing handlebars. Here are some example:
https://www.rivbike.com/Articles.asp?ID=326
https://www.jensonusa.com/Kalloy-TriMtn-Quill-Stem-1
https://www.jensonusa.com/Zoom-Quick-...ble-Quill-Stem

Double-check the diameter of your existing stem and handlebars before you order since it must fit both your existing headset and your handlebars. Your LBS might even have one on hand.

Another alternative is to buy a quill stem adapter, that allows you to use "modern" stems on your existing bike; this one has a pretty high extension and you can buy a stem that has whatever angle you like:
https://www.jensonusa.com/Dimension-Quill-Stem-Adaptor

I started with an adjustable quill adapter, and it worked great. But later I decided I wanted different handlebars that required a different stem, so I changed to the Dimension adapter (last link) and a modern stem.

I hope this helps!

-Tom in SoCal

LarDasse74

To the OP: Do you have a threadless stem (clamped on the top of the fork, usually secured with one or two bolts on the side of the stem) or a quill stem (post goes down inside the fork, secured with an expander tightened by a single bolt on top of the stem)? Most newer (10 - 15 y.o.) road and touring bikes have threadless stems.

fietsbob

maybe this stem?
https://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/stems/BHS-26/

I got one of these..
https://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/headset-parts/BHP-21/

It added height and was able to go with a 2 stem stack to mount my HB.. bag..
a Klick-Fix Mount.

FrenchFit 

Just add a few spacers and tighten the stem. As long as half the steerer tube is in the stem you should be fine. The combination of the secure bottom bolt, tapering top and topcap bolt is plenty. People may tell you that's dangerous, but it's not my experience. I'm strong enough to have ripped the stem faceplate off twisting the bars on aggressive climbs, but Ive never spun a stem-steerer set up this way. This is a component that's simply overbuilt and needlessly tight.

I mention it because I learned that very tight and secure steerers isn't always a good thing. I spilled a race bike, with a traditional quill, and got sort of harponed in the leg by the drops..thankfully the quill spun a little and spared my leg...just as they are supposed to do. If that had been treadless and locked super-tight I thinking some hospital time would have been the result.

So, on eBay you can get a few spacers for a few dollars, use your current components, add maybe 1/2 inches under yoru stem with no worries unless you just cannot deal with the fear of the steerer being 1/2 below the topcap..

If I was a DH bomber I might look at it differently, but I doubt that's how you are using your Trek 520.

LarDasse74

I don't think this is good advice. Yes, I am sure with most setups there is a little room to safely move the stem up - 1/2" is likely the maximum that it is wise to do so, or at least the maximum that will work with most or all bikes. Many people will read that advice and think 'if it's ok for 1/2" then it should be OK with 3/4"' when in fact it was a marginally bad idea to go to 1/2". The other reason it is not good advice is that the OP said he wanted to move his stem up by an inch or two... there might be some situations where moving the stem up to where there is an inch above the top of the steerer - not many situations, but I admit there might be a possibility - but certainly not 2" - that is undoubtedly a bad idea.
THe rule of thumb I go by is that your steerer should reach up at least to the top bolt on the stem.
I have seen stems and steerers damaged by clamping too high off the top of the steerer.