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  1. #1
    broken runner
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    cleat adjustment Time ATAC pedals

    I am sure this is a dumb question BUT ...

    I have just bought a pair of TIME ATAC pedals and Shimano MO38 shoes ( so what, I hear you say !!).

    When I was in the shop I asked about adjusting the cleat for a quicker release ( this being my first pair of clipless) and I gathered the cleats could be adjusted to increase or decrease the release angle ie the amount of ankle twisting required. I understood ( or at least thought I did ) that this depended on which way the cleat was attached.

    The TIME site indicates that you can choose a release angle of 13 or 17 degrees - but of course it doesn't tell you how to adjust the release angle. (In passing, I have also had a look at the Speed Goat site for shaved cleats http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp...=240&brand=255 , though I imagine $25 US = $100 AUS?? ). SO ...

    Could some one please enlighten me about cleat /release angle adjustment ?? As a matter of fact getting in and out of these pedals does not seem too bad ( so far ) - I think a tip on one of the forums to practice with one clipless and one standard pedal was pretty good

    PS Any idea what the letters on the cleat mean - I guess L and R are left and right ( doh!!) but how about D and G ?? thanks

  2. #2
    Has opinion, will express
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    There should have been a little pamphlet enclosed in the plastic bag with instructions. The D and G are, I think, French for gauche and droit, meaning left and right.

    There were some cleats that came out recently that were a bit odd. I can't remember the exact reason why, but IIRC it was that they did not have the normal markings on them.

    Anyway, the relevant paragraph in the pamphlet says: "The release angle of approx 13 degrees provides easier outward release.

    "For riders who prefer a wider release angle.... mounting the cleat marked G/L on the RIGHT shoes and the cleat marked D/R on the left shoe will provide a release angle of approx 17 degrees".

  3. #3
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rowan
    There should have been a little pamphlet enclosed in the plastic bag with instructions. The D and G are, I think, French for gauche and droit, meaning left and right.

    There were some cleats that came out recently that were a bit odd. I can't remember the exact reason why, but IIRC it was that they did not have the normal markings on them.

    Anyway, the relevant paragraph in the pamphlet says: "The release angle of approx 13 degrees provides easier outward release.

    "For riders who prefer a wider release angle.... mounting the cleat marked G/L on the RIGHT shoes and the cleat marked D/R on the left shoe will provide a release angle of approx 17 degrees".
    Spot on

  4. #4
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    Gee, thanks Raiyn. We're friends again, huh?

    A couple of other pieces of unsolicited advice:

    Don't do up the allen bolts too tightly. Otherwise the little ridges on the cleats will dig right into the plastic sole. The result will be less space between the sole and the cleat. You *will* be able to clip in, but there will be no float... your foot will be locked in a position which, unless you are very lucky, will be uncomfortable and likely to cause ankle or knee problems. You also will have trouble clipping out irrespective of the L/R configuration.

    A little story. I lost a bolt out of the right cleat somewhere on flights between Hobart and Perth in October (my bike shoes are my all-day shoes). I clipped in outside Perth Airport, then promptly fell over because I could not clip out. I fell on to an already broken shoulder. Ouch!

    My paranoia overcame me and I reefed down on the bolt too tightly, resulting in the problems outlined above. I rode for 1200+km before doing something about it, and suffered ITB problems along the way.

    The best thing to do is get some Loctite 242/243 and put a few drops on the threads of each bolt before screwing on the cleats. This will serve two functions -- stop the bolts coming out, and stop rust from seizing the bolts into the inner plate they screw into. The cleats are brass and will eventually wear down if you walk a lot in the shoes they are fitted to. At the same time, the heads of the bolts will wear, too. Trying to get the allen key in then becomes a bear, and if the bolts are seized in by rust, you'll likely have to get the old electric drill out and get to work on the heads. It's messy.

    I noticed in my hunt for cheap Loctite in Perth that the company now offers small plastic sachets of 242/243 for about a third of the price of a full bottle. I still carry the remaining drops in the sachet in my on-bike tool kit when doing extended tours or randonnees. It's available from car accessory joints.

    By the way, welcome to BF and because you are from Melbourne, drop over at the 24/7 party on The Aussie Thread in Road Cycling sometime and introduce yourself to the boys.

  5. #5
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rowan
    Gee, thanks Raiyn. We're friends again, huh?
    <offtopic>As far as I'm concerened the matter is closed to the public any further discussion on the matter should be via PM only. Suffice it to say for others who will read this the matter is not up for discussion and is hopefully only a blip in the Big Picture
    </offtopic>
    Good advice on the Loctite too I did precisely the same thing

  6. #6
    broken runner
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    Ah yes - read the instructions !! Those must have been the things the bike shop guy threw in the bin. Thanks very much for the advice ( happy new year) - and I'll have a wander over to the Aussie Thread.

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