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Old 05-03-12, 05:50 PM   #1
alecjahn
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"No" lockring!? Shimano (7spd) cassette removal.

HAY GUYS CAN YOU HELP ME WITH MY WHEEL I THINK IT'S BROKEN



For the record, I did not do this. A Trek 1400 was donated to the coop with the rear like this. We found a suitable 7-speed rear wheel to put on there. All is well.

Anyway, I eventually want to find a cheap rim, and re-use the 105 hub.

How the heck to I get this cassette off of there?



(...it is a cassette, right?) (pardon me, I should have cleaned that thing a bit better before making you all gag from the macro dirt and... hair?)

I see on Park Tool's page, a section about this sort of thing...
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ewheel-removal
(do a Ctrl+F for " Older Cassette Hubs (non-lockring ring type freehubs) ")

but that being said, it looks to me like I can see the freewheel splines in there and (again, just visually) the first cog wouldn't just be threaded-on.

So, do I just need to find another chain whip and do that thing, or am I way-off?
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Old 05-03-12, 05:55 PM   #2
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Yeah that's an old Uniglide cassette. To remove it you need two chainwhips, or one chainwhip and a bicycle. The smallest cog is threaded on and holds the rest of them in place. Keep in mind to reuse this hub you have to use a Uniglide cassette (extinct) or swap out the Freehub body to use a Hyperglide cassette.

The newer lockring setup is much better IMO.
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Old 05-03-12, 05:57 PM   #3
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that looks like a threaded on cog on top of the early early shimano freehubs.

Use two chainwhips and put one on the top cog and the other lower and remove, that should loosen up the top threaded cog.

The splines are still present for all of the rest of the cogs.
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Old 05-03-12, 05:58 PM   #4
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For the record, I would not even bother reusing that rear hub assembly. Its the old style without the internal locking ring threads and will be a pain if you want to upgrade in the future.
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Old 05-03-12, 06:04 PM   #5
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Count-down to facepalm: when I look closer I think I can definitely see threads on the first cog.

Gonna borrow another whip tomorrow and give it a shot.

I know it isn't an expandable setup, but oh well. I'd like to keep that bike (eventually, when I rebuild this taco) almost all stock.

Hopefully my ignorance and inability to research things will at least result in someone finding this thread and quickly answering their own similar question.


Thanks y'all!

Last edited by alecjahn; 05-03-12 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 05-03-12, 06:12 PM   #6
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I miss full height cog teeth,.. once in gear it stayed there, no Ghost shifts.
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Old 05-03-12, 06:53 PM   #7
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I had one of those on a set of Shimano 600 hubs. I swapped the UniGlide body for a HyperGlide Cassette Body so I could find cassettes without paying the vintage arm-and-leg. Works great!
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Old 05-03-12, 07:54 PM   #8
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I miss full height cog teeth,.. once in gear it stayed there, no Ghost shifts.
Right. But often no shifting when you wanted it to either.
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Old 05-04-12, 11:49 AM   #9
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I volunteer at a charity bike shop, (bikes get donated, we sell them, charity get money) the number of bike that come in 'contaminated' with hair(cat, dog, human, other) is amazing. And sometimes very gross.
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Old 05-04-12, 11:16 PM   #10
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Thanks again, everyone, for not reminding me how dumb I am and how I could have probably just researched things a little more and found the answer myself.

You're the best,
-Alec

P.S. I'm going to convert to Hyperglide, then, and maybe... maybe upgrade to 8 speed. Something like that. I can figure all that out myself, surely. I'm not that inept! Unless I am, in which case you should verbally slap me.
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Old 05-04-12, 11:47 PM   #11
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What was said... two chain whips, the smallest cog holds the rest in place and if you have the replacement parts uniglide is not a bad system and I still run a few of them as I have enough replacement cogs to last me for a very long time.
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Old 05-06-12, 04:38 AM   #12
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I have the uniglide system too.

I'm stuck with the last threaded cog, but the other cogs can be changed with any hyperglide cassette and 10 minutes of grinding off the wide spline that Hyperglide have.
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Old 05-06-12, 01:32 PM   #13
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Two, and soon, 3 of my bikes will run on uniglide cassettes.
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Old 05-06-12, 02:28 PM   #14
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For what it's worth, I'd keep that old freehub and cassette. The Uniglide system is now somewhat rare. I've seen six speed, but I've never seen a 7 speed. It might make a cool conversation piece for the future not to mention winning bets with new, uninformed bike mechanics that never heard of Uniglide. I must admit, I did just that with my six speed.
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Old 05-06-12, 05:24 PM   #15
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I have the 8speed uniglide, dura-ace 1989 - that oddity with different threading on the last cog than normal uniglide.
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Old 05-07-12, 01:32 AM   #16
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I'm going to convert to Hyperglide, then, and maybe... maybe upgrade to 8 speed. Something like that.
Pull the spindle to ensure the freehub body can be removed. On earlier Uniglide hubs, the 10mm allen sleeve may be absent; it could be rivetted on instead. In which case I wouldn't bother with the hub.

If it's replaceable, you can swap it for a 7spd Hyperglide unit or an 8/9/10spd one. Reasons for sticking with 7spd include 126mm OLD frame, more reliable indexing, and compatibility with Campy 8spd shifters/derailleur.
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Old 05-07-12, 10:43 AM   #17
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8 speed is... 130mm?

This is an aluminum Trek. Is that too much to flex the frame?
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Old 05-07-12, 11:05 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by alecjahn View Post
8 speed is... 130mm?

This is an aluminum Trek. Is that too much to flex the frame?
Yes, 8-spd was when 130mm was used. The Dura-Ace rear-hubs had conical locknuts to help spread the dropouts when you pulled the wheel in. I had a Trek 2500 from that vintage with Dura-Ace 8-spd. Very nice bike. The freehub is unique in that it's 8-spd Uniglide or Hyperglide. It has threaded splines at the end for Uniglide top-cog and internal threads for a Hyperglide lockring.

Frame-flex is a non-issue in terms of performance, rather more a comfort and personal "feel" question. Back in the early '80s when the first standard-size tubing Vitus aluminium frames came out, pro-Racers poo-poo'ed the design for its excessive flex. Although the climbers quickly adopted it for its superior weight-savings. To put the matter to a test, Laurent Fignon, 2-time TDF winner, did back-to-back time-trials using the new wet-noodle Vitus design versus a traditional custom-built steel frame. The results? Exactly the same times. Numerous more scientific tests have been conducted with strain-gauges and robotics and the results have still been the same, flexy-frames do not result in any performance detriments.

One of the stiffest frames ever made, the original large-tube Cannondale beer-can frames with chromoly forks was very nice in crits. The stiffness gave instant responses for fast cut & thrust maneuvers and it turned telepathically. However, it was too stiff and caused too much wheel-hop around bumpy corners. Not to mention fatiguing the rider quickly due to the stiff & harsh ride. The fat-tube Cannondales were never really favoured by the long-distance touring crowd either. Your bum felt like it's ridden 200-miles when you've only been on the bike for a couple hours.

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Old 05-07-12, 11:10 AM   #19
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Earlier freehubs weren't attached rigidly to the hub-shell, but were held in place by the axle and outer cone (late-'70s to early '80s).

The next generation AX-series and early EX-series used a large screw-thread to hold the freehub-body onto the hub-shell. The only upgrade for these hubs was the very rare FH-7402 Dura-Ace 8-spd freehub-body that was both Uniglide & Hyperglide compatible:


Later EX-series and modern design used the 10mm hollow bolt:

These hubs can easily be upgraded from 6/7-spd to modern 8/9/10-spd.
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Old 05-07-12, 11:33 AM   #20
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Haven't come across that first sort... I've got this old 6spd DA hub I fit a cut-down HG spline body to. I couldn't remove the inner section of the freewheel mechanism; it's got a big hollow rivet (it's part of the hubshell, IIRC) instead of the threaded sleeve.



Quote:
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8 speed is... 130mm?

This is an aluminum Trek. Is that too much to flex the frame?
Measure the distance between the dropouts with the wheel out. I wouldn't want to stretch an ally frame more than 2mm. You can easily fit an 8/9/10spd hub into 126mm if you use an OCR, though... I worked out that has less dish than a normal 130mm wheel.
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Old 05-07-12, 11:39 AM   #21
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Old 05-07-12, 01:10 PM   #22
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Haven't come across that first sort... I've got this old 6spd DA hub I fit a cut-down HG spline body to. I couldn't remove the inner section of the freewheel mechanism; it's got a big hollow rivet (it's part of the hubshell, IIRC) instead of the threaded sleeve.
Dura-Ace AX uses the large screw-thread freehub body. You need tool# TL-FH10 to remove the body. I've upgraded many of these to the 8-spd Uniglide/Hyperglide body:



There were also some Hyperglide-only 7-spd bodies as well:

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Old 05-08-12, 07:34 AM   #23
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That last pic is how my hub looks (nowhere for a tool) except it was 6spd Uniglide before I modded it.

Hey... that one there is a bit odd, innit? HG thread but UG splines.
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Old 05-08-12, 09:03 AM   #24
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Yeah, that Dura-Ace 8-spd Uniglide/Hyperglide freehub body is quite versatile. I've customized clusters for various races and had a mix of Uniglide & Hyperglide cogs to get just the right ratios. Wish there was a way to get more of them. Got a couple other 7-spd Dura-Ace hubs I'd like to upgrade
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Old 05-08-12, 11:11 AM   #25
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Can i also convert to 8-speed?

My 88' Rockhopper has a Uniglide 6 speed Cassette Serial #GP856668. Can i also convert to 8-speed?
I have a pair of 7-speed XT index thumbies that are begging me to be used. These have a hidden 8th shift click.

Im not sure this its related to the mods you folks are doing, but i found this on Sheldon's: http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#transplant for transplanting uniglide cogs.
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