Wheel stregth for heavy rider
#26
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You might consider skyway tough wheels, fiberglass reinforced nylon..
But they are single speed , in 26" and smaller sizes.
But they are single speed , in 26" and smaller sizes.
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The real question is: "What should I do now?"
1. It's a private sale. Tell the buyer the bike was good when you sold it so now it's his problem.
2. True and tension the wheel for him. If you detension all of the spokes how true will the rim be? This might involve more time and money than you want to invest.
3. Give the man his money back.
Frankly, I don't like any of those options.
1. It's a private sale. Tell the buyer the bike was good when you sold it so now it's his problem.
2. True and tension the wheel for him. If you detension all of the spokes how true will the rim be? This might involve more time and money than you want to invest.
3. Give the man his money back.
Frankly, I don't like any of those options.
#28
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Greeting all,
I recently sold a vintage trek road bike to a heavy rider. The frame is a 52 cm wheels were true and had good tension before I sold it. Bike came back a few days later with the rear wheel completely out of true. It had not occurred to me that the rider maybe too heavy for the vintage wheels. wheels are 32 hole front and rear. Rider is probably 200 lbs ... frame size was right for him.
Is there anything I can do make sure the wheels stay true. Or should I just take the bike back and tell him unfortunately his is too heavy for the wheels and I can't say the wheels will stay true. Should I advise him to get a higher spoke count wheelset?
I recently sold a vintage trek road bike to a heavy rider. The frame is a 52 cm wheels were true and had good tension before I sold it. Bike came back a few days later with the rear wheel completely out of true. It had not occurred to me that the rider maybe too heavy for the vintage wheels. wheels are 32 hole front and rear. Rider is probably 200 lbs ... frame size was right for him.
Is there anything I can do make sure the wheels stay true. Or should I just take the bike back and tell him unfortunately his is too heavy for the wheels and I can't say the wheels will stay true. Should I advise him to get a higher spoke count wheelset?
and this person is not sharing with you all the information you
need to understand what happened.
Like so many others who've responded, I'm well north of 200#
and regularly ride a variety of 36 and 32 spoked wheels on a
large collection of road bikes.
i would ask you how you know the wheels had "good tension"
without a tensiometer ?
Otherwise........**** happens and wheels are one of the places
it happens quickly with people who do not understand their
limitations. I'd sure be reluctant to say anything except, "Gee,
that's too bad. Maybe you ought to think about getting yourself
some mechanical training so you can fix your stuff when it breaks?"
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Well... I had the wheel trued and tensioned by a more professional mechanic friend of mine than my self. The guy took it for a ride and it came back totally worse than before... I took the bike back and gave a refund. In the end I just don't think it was the right bike for this guy. We were both disappointed... I rode the bike before returning it once the wheel was true and it rode fine no wheel issue.
It was a 52 cm trek elance frame with 700c rims laced to mailard hubs... I'll have to replace the rear wheel now and sell it to a lighter rider. Lesson learned.
It was a 52 cm trek elance frame with 700c rims laced to mailard hubs... I'll have to replace the rear wheel now and sell it to a lighter rider. Lesson learned.
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200 lbs isn't too much caus' I carry that myself. I use 32 spoke wheels and that's not a problem either, it just maybe a while since the wheels had been trued and the combo of additional weight. The guy can get the wheels redished and that should be fine.
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If you still have time and inclination, something to try is to de-tension all the spokes and then with tire and tube removed, examine the rim edge-wise to see if the rim is relatively flat and in the same plane.
I've purchased a few used bikes over the years, and one thing I've learned over the years is the tendencies by some sellers to try to touch up wheels that have been previously potato-chipped. Perhaps not too badly, but enough to cause the wheel to warp further under even moderately heavy riders. And you can tell initially by examining the true and just squeezing spokes for tension. You will see the rim pull to one side, but the spokes on that side aren't very tight.
I often confirm my suspicions if I still deem the price okay to buy. When the bike gets home, I loosen and remove all the spokes on the suspect wheel and inevitably, I'll lay the rim down on a flat surface and I'll usually see it's not flat. There are times when I look around lug-work and find minor paint cracks around the head tube for example, and I'll know the frame and wheel have been damaged before.
You might want to do that with your bike and at least figure out if the wheel has been damaged.
I've purchased a few used bikes over the years, and one thing I've learned over the years is the tendencies by some sellers to try to touch up wheels that have been previously potato-chipped. Perhaps not too badly, but enough to cause the wheel to warp further under even moderately heavy riders. And you can tell initially by examining the true and just squeezing spokes for tension. You will see the rim pull to one side, but the spokes on that side aren't very tight.
I often confirm my suspicions if I still deem the price okay to buy. When the bike gets home, I loosen and remove all the spokes on the suspect wheel and inevitably, I'll lay the rim down on a flat surface and I'll usually see it's not flat. There are times when I look around lug-work and find minor paint cracks around the head tube for example, and I'll know the frame and wheel have been damaged before.
You might want to do that with your bike and at least figure out if the wheel has been damaged.
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