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  1. #1
    GranitCurbVia53x11Sprint Todd Richards's Avatar
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    Campy shifter cable keeps fraying.

    Campy Record 10s right shifter; tried using genuine Campy cables, Shimano, Jagwire, and most recently Gore Ride-On. After about 2000 miles the cable starts to fray near the barrel inside the shifter, apparently from the relatively sharp bend that the cable housing has to do where it enters the shifter's body. I've tried oils, dry graphite, vasalene with same results. I've tried new housings each time, with careful attention to filing the inner faces and effort to reduce any contact between the cable and end-cap. I recently tried the Gore-Ride-On cables that are coated (with Gore's included housing). instead of fraying the cable's coating started to tear and gum-up movement. It's never happened to the left shifter, almost certainly because of less use and also i change it every year.

    Any advice? (besides swith to Shimano/Sram, or the joke about not shifting so much- please).

    100_6218.jpg
    I once ate 11 Lobsters, no kidding. Dean Compact Ti 'Cross with Chorus; Merlin Agilis with D/A 9 speed; Basso SS; Litespeed Obed XTR 9; Cannondale SS MB rigid disc w/studded tires for snowmobile trails.

  2. #2
    GranitCurbVia53x11Sprint Todd Richards's Avatar
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    okay- another- technically not still a true Record shifter. I like the alu paddle of the other (Chorus?) but I had the same issue whrne the paddle was the Record Carbon type.
    I once ate 11 Lobsters, no kidding. Dean Compact Ti 'Cross with Chorus; Merlin Agilis with D/A 9 speed; Basso SS; Litespeed Obed XTR 9; Cannondale SS MB rigid disc w/studded tires for snowmobile trails.

  3. #3
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    Something inside the shifter is broken or worn out. This is not normal for a Campy shifter. Never had a cable fray in 15 years with Campy-only.

    I suppose the cable could be improperly routed, but that should foul up the shifting. Campy cables are the best.

  4. #4
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    I have the same problem.

  5. #5
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Curious observer.. would the Back of the handlebar routing of the Shift cable
    reduce this ?

    Or are you even using the Both up front routing?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbikerva1 View Post
    I have the same problem.
    My last right shift cable broke strands and speared me in the thumb. IIRC it was right where the cable came out of the index cam and therefore not the result of rubbing on anything.

    Standard cable routing with one on front of the bar (Cinelli 66 with ergo grooves) and one on back, first generation ergo levers, and I think the last cable was after market from the LBS not OEM.

    I'd like to say that happened in a few thousand miles and that OEM cables do better although I eschewed bike computers for over a decade and am pretty sure I omitted one of the rear shift cable replacements from the maintenance log since then.
    Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 11-12-12 at 01:33 PM.

  7. #7
    Let your bike be the tool cranky old road's Avatar
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    The 10 speed shifters require a properly sized ferrule on the end of the cable housing where it sits in the shifter. It is sometimes omitted and cable fray may result.
    Never try to teach a pig to sing...

  8. #8
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    The most likely cause of fraying at the hen of the housing (about 1-2" from the head) is a poorly trimmed housing. or one not perfectly pocketed in the lever body. I make it a point to use the perfectly squared factory cut end at the lever body, and my cut end at the fulcrum.

    When the housing isn't cut or pocketed well, or when a wrong ferrule is used, the misalignment causes the wire to chafe against the housing and fray, adding friction and shortening cable life.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by cranky old road View Post
    The 10 speed shifters require a properly sized ferrule on the end of the cable housing where it sits in the shifter. It is sometimes omitted and cable fray may result.
    First and second generation (including the first 10 speed levers) levers do. Third generation Ultrashift (and presumably Powershift) don't regardless of whether they're 10 or 11 cog.

    I'd guess that escape levers work like the second generation levers produced at the same time.
    Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 11-12-12 at 05:04 PM.

  10. #10
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    Just read really quick to everybody and my answer to your problem is that you have both cables at the front. Not saying you cant do that but in my experience using campy since back in the 70s is that what are you doing is a pretty bad idea.

    You put the brake cable in the front, derailleurs in the back. Even it is a thing of looking at the grooves in the levers to figure it out that is a really bad idea what are you doing. You create more friction putting the derailleur cables at the front.

    IMO Campangolo just added those grooves in the front w/o a reason and always people tend to use them, even if you look in the web sites, everhwere people is using the derailleur cables in the back to avoid friction. If its a problem for you then get a flat top handelbar and use the cables under the handlebar will work better than what you have now anyways.


    You dont need to buy the whole set of cables to fix this, just take the FD and rd cables out, re route the housing, trick out hte cables you have in there or just buy cheap 5 bucks shimano ones in the store, dremel the head to fit the spooler hole and ready to go. Will take you longer to wrap the handlebars back again than fix the problem.

    Campagnolo users aren't stubborn, hope you are not stubborn and listen

    Good luck.


    ps: forgot this, clearly your levers are well used too, have you ever rebuild them??? what model are those? chorus or centaurs? Chorus can be rebuilt and probably you are having issues with that aswell, but clearly you have to start fixing the cable position problem.
    Last edited by ultraman6970; 11-13-12 at 12:51 PM.

  11. #11
    GranitCurbVia53x11Sprint Todd Richards's Avatar
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    thanks.
    I once ate 11 Lobsters, no kidding. Dean Compact Ti 'Cross with Chorus; Merlin Agilis with D/A 9 speed; Basso SS; Litespeed Obed XTR 9; Cannondale SS MB rigid disc w/studded tires for snowmobile trails.

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