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Old 05-13-12, 04:28 PM   #1
RoadTire 
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Will Campy Record Wheels fit my drops as a replacement for Shimano Hubs?

Vintage Campagnolo Campy Record wheelset Mavic MA40 700c - will this fit into my Sekine that has Shimano hubs? (Sekine is 1975, the Campy's are from a 1990's bike) I'll change the brakes, but need to know if these will fit the drops in my frame?

A pair on ebay, ending in a half hour. Yikes? What's a good out-of-pocket price?
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Old 05-13-12, 04:55 PM   #2
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Well, that set went for $125 out of pocket, a bit more than I wanted to spend. But the question still stands - what are my compatibility issues?
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Old 05-13-12, 05:03 PM   #3
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Freewheel hubs shouldn't be an issue. Freehub wheels will take some frustrating and tedious kludges to work.
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Old 05-13-12, 05:12 PM   #4
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Campy from 1990's would be 130mm width, Sekine from the '70's would be 120mm width. You'd have to "cold-set" the frame for the wider hub, but that's no problem with a '70's-era steel frame.

I would double-check the description, though. Campy Record hubs with MA-40 rims was a very popular setup in the '80's. By the '90's, cassette hubs and "aero" rims were dominant. If they were Campy Record freewheel hubs they would bolt right on to your Sekine.
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Old 05-13-12, 05:17 PM   #5
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Well, that set went for $125 out of pocket, a bit more than I wanted to spend. But the question still stands - what are my compatibility issues?
It depends on how you define vintage.

By the 1990s road hubs were built to take cassettes instead of freewheels (so you'd need to use Campagnolo 8 (steel freehub, through the 1996 model year)) or 9/10/11 speed cogs.

The axles measure 130mm between lock nut faces versus 120mm or 126mm for older 5 and 6/7 speed frames and would require the frame to be spread or axle shortened and spacers removed.

Campagnolo Record hubs through 1998 can have the axle cut-down and a shorter lock nut used on the non-drive side; although 1999 and newer use an over-sized (maybe 15mm?) axle with end caps at the traditional 10mm diameter which can't be shortened.

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 05-13-12 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 05-13-12, 05:24 PM   #6
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Vintage Campagnolo Campy Record wheelset Mavic MA40 700c - will this fit into my Sekine that has Shimano hubs? (Sekine is 1975, the Campy's are from a 1990's bike) I'll change the brakes, but need to know if these will fit the drops in my frame?

A pair on ebay, ending in a half hour. Yikes? What's a good out-of-pocket price?
Assuming you mean these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...vip=true&rt=nc

they're not from after 1990 (although the bike might be) since Campagnolo switched to freehubs after 1990

http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponen...=110&AbsPos=42

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 05-13-12 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 05-13-12, 06:45 PM   #7
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Ok good info. Thanks all. This will help me eventually decide what route to replace my existing 27 in wheels.
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Old 05-13-12, 07:44 PM   #8
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Ok good info. Thanks all. This will help me eventually decide what route to replace my existing 27 in wheels.
If you're changing wheel sizes, you will need to check the reach of your brake calipers to make sure the pads reach the rims. If not, you may be able to find different calipers.
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Old 05-13-12, 10:23 PM   #9
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Well, that set went for $125 out of pocket, a bit more than I wanted to spend.
IMO your budget for a nice wheelset should start about there; I doubt you'll find much that's worthwhile under that.

Although if you're lucky, you could find a whole bike with nice wheels for not much more; buying bits is expensive.
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Old 05-14-12, 10:05 AM   #10
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Thank you for the info, links and of course, opinions. ;-) Yes, if I go 700's I'll have to replace the rear brake. And if I go new and get a freehub/cassette, I'll have to try for a 7 sp, make sure it's compatible with my existing chain/chain rings and spread the frame about 7mm. (I measured it with a caliper) Considering $$ and downtime, learning to rebuild build and true wheels will pay back pretty big dividends.

Now to search out spoke tension tolerances when trueing a wheel, like why, on my very straight front wheel, so some spokes go "ping" and others go "twanggg." Overcompensation for a screwed up rim? Not trued properly in the first place?
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Old 05-14-12, 11:35 AM   #11
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Now to search out spoke tension tolerances when trueing a wheel, like why, on my very straight front wheel, so some spokes go "ping" and others go "twanggg." Overcompensation for a screwed up rim? Not trued properly in the first place?
Either or both - you'll find out if you try to make it right. If it can be made true with even tension (where a loose spoke is between two tight spokes on one side of the wheel tighten it half a turn and loosen each of its neighbors a quarter turn; with two loose spokes in a side between two tight spokes try 1/4 turn looser on the tight ones and 1/4 turn tighter on the loose ones; etc.) it wasn't done properly. If you can't get it true with approximately even tension the rim is bent.
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Old 05-15-12, 05:04 AM   #12
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I reckon the best way to find out is to disassemble the wheel, check the rim against a pane of glass, and reassemble the wheel, starting by screwing all nipples up to the same point and tightening them all by the same amount (more on DS rear). Then true it.

If the window tells you the rim's straight (check both sides), it's not likely to have much hop, IMO - you're usually good to go.
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Old 05-17-12, 03:31 PM   #13
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I reckon the best way to find out is to disassemble the wheel, check the rim against a pane of glass, and reassemble the wheel, starting by screwing all nipples up to the same point and tightening them all by the same amount (more on DS rear). Then true it.
There's no reason to put yourself through all that effort.

Just try to make the tension as even as possible without loosing true. If the best you can do with a straight wheel results in adjacent spokes that make a sharp ping and a dull thud the rim is definitely bent. If you end up with all the spokes making about the same sound it's straight enough. If it's bent and staying true you can just live with it. If it's not staying true you may be able to bend it back. If you don't do that the least labor intensive way to fix it is removing tension so the nipples are barely hanging onto the spokes, taping a replacement rim to the current rim in 2-3 places, lubricating the sockets, and transfer spokes one at a time taking the opportunity to lubricate the spoke threads (I like to apply anti-seize using an acid brush with half the bristle length cut-off) and replace any nipples with too much friction or external damage

With a tension meter Park says +/- 20% is good enough although the wheels I've built recently have done better. The front rim I bent which wouldn't stay true took 75kgf in the loosest spokes and 136kgf in the tightest spokes at the bend or -32 and +23% versus its 110kgf average.

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 05-17-12 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 05-18-12, 01:29 AM   #14
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What a conundrum. I want to 1) get my bike back on the road with minimal cost. 2) keep it on the road for a couple years while I save up for a new bike. If I'm buying parts, might as well go with new. If I go the DIY route, I'll try to do it without buying a spoke tension tool (the ParkTool costs > $50.)

Recommendations for rims and spokes?

Any recommendations other than Shimano Sora hubs? I’m thinking 7 speed to minimize compatibility issues with my current 5 speed freewheel oriented drivetrain setup. Or just go to another freewheel hub and new freewheel?

I guess I will replace the broken spoke this weekend and try to tension the spokes so the drive side pings about the same and then the left side sounds about the same then true the wheel.

I can see huge advantages of learning to build my own wheels, starting with existing wheels and see if they are straight and the only issue is bad spokes and tension causing the breakage. I’m assuming the 35 year old spokes are fatigued and should be replaced no matter what.

Correct assumption?

Next, if the rims are bent, replace them. Might as well go to 700c if that’s the case. New rear brake will be needed - mine isn't long enough.

Hubs seem to be fine. I’ve replaced bearings and cones a couple times, but I have no idea how many miles the hubs can keep going before complete replacement.

Freewheel should be replaced. It’s original and has quite a bit of wear on the small gears.

Last edited by RoadTire; 05-18-12 at 01:33 AM.
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