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  1. #1
    The bike plague MightyLegnano's Avatar
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    Very annoying tick sound in BB area

    Anyone had the same problem? I can't locate the sound but I'm suspecting it comes from BB because I hear it in every rotation of the pedals. It's a very subtle but annoying sound. It happens when I pedal standing as well. Also, I can't hear it when the bike is in low gears and low rpm.
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  2. #2
    Optically Corrected KLiNCK's Avatar
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    Lots of good suggestions for finding / eliminating various "mystery" noises here:

    http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html
    "Succeeding....despite best intentions"

  3. #3
    The bike plague MightyLegnano's Avatar
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    This is wonderful! Neatly organized annoying noises and solutions! Thanks a bunch!
    Bicyclosis! Bike hacks, bike adventures and radical ideas >> http://bicycleobsession.wordpress.com

  4. #4
    Half way there gmt13's Avatar
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    Don't rule out your pedals. Before tearing apart your BB, you could switch pedals as a test to see if the ticking disappears.

    -G

  5. #5
    Senior Member ljsense's Avatar
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    +1 on checking your pedals. One click per revolution is a good clue. The solution can be to simply tighten the pedal into the crankarm. A pedal that is imperceptibly loose can make a click sound. Also, see if your shoe is colliding with your front derailleur cable or something like that.

  6. #6
    Must... ride... more... Phil_gretz's Avatar
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    Check Chainring Bolt Tightness

    Quote Originally Posted by MightyLegnano View Post
    Anyone had the same problem? I can't locate the sound but I'm suspecting it comes from BB because I hear it in every rotation of the pedals. It's a very subtle but annoying sound. It happens when I pedal standing as well. Also, I can't hear it when the bike is in low gears and low rpm.
    This is a common cause of noises while under load. Carefully tighten them working in an alternating pattern. I've seen this a few times as a cause, particularly if the crankset was recently disassembled...but not reassembled properly.

  7. #7
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    Don't forget that crankarm bolts are a common source of 1-RPM clicks. Make sure they're tightened to 25-33 lb*ft torque. You can only reach this much torque by using an automotive-style ratchet wrench with at least 10" handle.

  8. #8
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MightyLegnano View Post
    Anyone had the same problem? I can't locate the sound but I'm suspecting it comes from BB because I hear it in every rotation of the pedals. It's a very subtle but annoying sound. It happens when I pedal standing as well. Also, I can't hear it when the bike is in low gears and low rpm.
    Shoelaces?

  9. #9
    Young wippersnapper Buggington's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    Shoelaces?
    +1. Also found that every so often my chain hits the front derailleur which makes a clink sound.

  10. #10
    Kitten Legion Master
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    I recently had some creaking sound, found out it was my seatpost.

  11. #11
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    Try the pedal spindle threads. Mine had no grease on them once. They were creaking like an old metal footbridge. The rear quick release tight? Chris

  12. #12
    The bike plague MightyLegnano's Avatar
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    I tightened the bolts on pedals and the crankarms and the noise is gone! So, one of you were right! Thanks a lot! I was almost certain that was BB's problem (I don't trust the cheap shimano's)

    Don't forget that crankarm bolts are a common source of 1-RPM clicks. Make sure they're tightened to 25-33 lb*ft torque. You can only reach this much torque by using an automotive-style ratchet wrench with at least 10" handle.
    Those small bolts can handle that much pressure? And if you tighten them so much will you be able to unscrew them later?
    Last edited by MightyLegnano; 05-15-12 at 05:37 PM.
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  13. #13
    Half way there gmt13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    Shoelaces?
    Yep-common. Once you've heard the loose aglet tapping the chainring it's pretty easy to figure out.

    -G

  14. #14
    Hump, what hump? horatio's Avatar
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    Happened to me with my then-new Secteur. Non-drive side BB cup was to blame - it had come loose.
    Check out my blog and leave a comment!

    2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1989 Pinarello Montello ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1988 Centurion Ironman Expert ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1986 Basso Gap ** 198? Trek 820 ** 19?? Roberts Audax

  15. #15
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    My mystery noise was the factory cage sticker for mm spacing of the FD periodically hitting the chain. I laughed and laughed when I finally spotted it.

  16. #16
    Senior Member old_dreams's Avatar
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    FD Limit screw adjustment?

    Is the drive side crank arm touching the FD cage as it passes by?

  17. #17
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    had the same one click per pedal stroke...it was a headset that need to be regreased....yet the sound came from the BB area

  18. #18
    Si Senior dbg's Avatar
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    Riding buddy had an annoying regular click (any loaded pedal attempt). We coerced him into letting me check it out. Replaced pedals-no fix. Removed cranks and reseated/tightened BB-voila. Silence.
    David Green, Naperville, IL USA "The older I get, the better I used to be" --Lee Trevino

  19. #19
    Senior Member dynodonn's Avatar
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    +1 on tightening the pedals and crankarms, and my last ticking sound was from my left pedal, some extra tightening was all that was needed to make it stop.

  20. #20
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MightyLegnano View Post
    I tightened the bolts on pedals and the crankarms and the noise is gone! So, one of you were right! Thanks a lot! I was almost certain that was BB's problem (I don't trust the cheap shimano's)
    Don't forget that crankarm bolts are a common source of 1-RPM clicks. Make sure they're tightened to 25-33 lb*ft torque. You can only reach this much torque by using an automotive-style ratchet wrench with at least 10" handle.
    Those small bolts can handle that much pressure? And if you tighten them so much will you be able to unscrew them later?
    These are 8mm bolts, quite hefty and can handle over 10,000 lbs tension before breaking if they're chromoly. Same size as used on cylinder-head studs on motorcycles and brake-rotors. If just 6 of these bolts per rotor can haul a 500-lbs motorcycle+rider combo down from +220mph multiple times lap after lap, I think one of them can hold a crankarm on just fine at that torque. You use the same or similar tool to remove, an automotive-style ratchet wrench or breaker-bar:


    The main problem is the stupid allen-key head on the bolt. Allows for wiggling and destroying the inside shape before the desired torque is reached. Much better if it was a triple-square (cheesehead) or regular hex-head bolt.

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