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  1. #1
    Igo
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    When does one start thinking about rims?

    I have a 2012 Trek 2.1. It has "Bontanger approved" wheels. The only distinguishing characteristics of these wheels are that they have flat spoke blades, which I find interesting but know nothing about.
    I do understand the principle behind changing wheels but when does it become practical to do so? This is a $1300 aluminum bike. Do I bother?
    Road Bike: Trek 2.1 Apex
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  2. #2
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    Different wheels for different purposes, your current wheels are low(ish) spoke count, great for road bike, not much use if touring / communting where you want heavier duty 32/36 hole rims & spokes. Same goes for time trialing, where you would look for a deeper section rim, normally made from carbon, but a decent entery level wheelset will cost as much / more than your complete bike.

    Tire choice makes a difference as well, you need different rims depending if you use tubs (Tubular), clincher as you will currently have or tubeless tires.

    Unless you are racing, the wheels you have are prefectly good, and no need to change them till they wear out

  3. #3
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    When they break or if you can afford really trick racing wheels.

    I am not familiar with that bike, it is a mix of 105 and Tiagra yes? It seems like a entry level racing bike or a fast sport bike. Unless you are competing there is no real need to upgrade/replace the wheels.

    Others will say "YES BUY THIS WHEEL NOW!!" but you really need to consider is buying a set of $1000 wheels going to really hep your 40 mile excercise loop that much? Sure lighter wheels may make the bike lighter and lighter wheels 'spin up' faster since there is less rotating mass but if your our for fun and excersise your stock wheels are perfect since they make you work harder.
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto, '90 Campione del Fausto Giamondi Specialisma Italiano Mundo, '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '86 Volpe, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

    Others but still loved,; '80 RIGI, '80 Batavus Professional, '87 Cornelo, '09 Motobecane SS, '?? Jane Doe (still on the drawing board), '90ish Haro Escape

  4. #4
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    The two most useful comments above are; "no need to change them till they wear out" and "When they break...". Otherwise your current wheels should last for years and thousands of miles.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    The two most useful comments above are; "no need to change them till they wear out" and "When they break...". Otherwise your current wheels should last for years and thousands of miles.
    +1

    OEM wheels by and large are perfectly fine for a recreational rider.

    Brad

  6. #6
    自転車整備士 oldskoolwrench's Avatar
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    Big + for all the responses; just keep your tire pressure up, and keep a keen eye out for road hazards!

  7. #7
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    If you get serious into racing you'll probably end up getting some fancy race wheels if/when you can afford them.

    If you're commuting/touring/etc chances are you'll break those wheels eventually and have to replace them. If that's the case, I'd go for some 32x3 or 36x3 wheels. But a Trek 2.1 isn't a touring bike anyway, so if you're using it for that you'd be better off getting a different bike.

    But yeah, if you're just riding around, doing group rides, whatever, those wheels will be perfectly fine. Use them till they wear out.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  8. #8
    Igo
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimc101 View Post
    Different wheels for different purposes, your current wheels are low(ish) spoke count, great for road bike, not much use if touring / communting where you want heavier duty 32/36 hole rims & spokes. Same goes for time trialing, where you would look for a deeper section rim, normally made from carbon, but a decent entery level wheelset will cost as much / more than your complete bike.

    Tire choice makes a difference as well, you need different rims depending if you use tubs (Tubular), clincher as you will currently have or tubeless tires.

    Unless you are racing, the wheels you have are prefectly good, and no need to change them till they wear out
    I appreciate that. I don't have any real fix on the tipping point for when it becomes a good idea to buy improved wheel designs. I hadn't given much thought to wheels but wanted to ask because I'm giving a great deal of consideration to tires. But this Trek 2.1 won't last long. It is my third bike this year and I've already got my sights on something else a little more ambitious.
    Road Bike: Trek 2.1 Apex
    SPD Pedals
    Continental Gatorskin tires
    Kool Stop brake pads

    Hybrid/Commuter: Giant Escape 1
    Panaracer 28c T-Serv tires
    Ergon GP2-L Grips
    Serfas Lycra Dual Density Saddle
    Eleven81 BMX Pedals
    Kool Stop brake pads
    Planet Bike Blaze 2W front light
    Planet Bike Superflash Stealth rear light
    Topeak Explorer MTX Rack
    Topeak MTX Trunk Bag EX
    Topeak MTX TrunkBag DXP with Expandable Side Panniers
    Topeak Aero Expanding Wedge - Medium
    Garmin GPSMap 60CSx

  9. #9
    Igo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    When they break or if you can afford really trick racing wheels.

    I am not familiar with that bike, it is a mix of 105 and Tiagra yes? It seems like a entry level racing bike or a fast sport bike. Unless you are competing there is no real need to upgrade/replace the wheels.

    Others will say "YES BUY THIS WHEEL NOW!!" but you really need to consider is buying a set of $1000 wheels going to really hep your 40 mile excercise loop that much? Sure lighter wheels may make the bike lighter and lighter wheels 'spin up' faster since there is less rotating mass but if your our for fun and excersise your stock wheels are perfect since they make you work harder.
    I think you are right. I think I can do as much performance upgrades on this bike as will ever be practical by deciding what tires I want.
    FYI, this bike is SRAM Apex 11-32. It climbs straight up which what I thought I needed but the gears are too far apart this way. Apex is between Tiagra and 105 for SRAM.
    Road Bike: Trek 2.1 Apex
    SPD Pedals
    Continental Gatorskin tires
    Kool Stop brake pads

    Hybrid/Commuter: Giant Escape 1
    Panaracer 28c T-Serv tires
    Ergon GP2-L Grips
    Serfas Lycra Dual Density Saddle
    Eleven81 BMX Pedals
    Kool Stop brake pads
    Planet Bike Blaze 2W front light
    Planet Bike Superflash Stealth rear light
    Topeak Explorer MTX Rack
    Topeak MTX Trunk Bag EX
    Topeak MTX TrunkBag DXP with Expandable Side Panniers
    Topeak Aero Expanding Wedge - Medium
    Garmin GPSMap 60CSx

  10. #10
    Igo
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    Thanks all. I spend all day making 60 miles just sniffing the cactus. I felt like I was making the greatest wheel improvement when I bought a bike with 23c tires instead of 25c tires. I had a Defy with 25c I used for commuting as well as my weekend bike but now I have a hybrid to commute on and I keep the road bike lean. For that reasoning I'm using a lighter 23c and I think that's all I'm going to do with this bike.
    For being a flower sniffer, I see another Defy in my future.
    Road Bike: Trek 2.1 Apex
    SPD Pedals
    Continental Gatorskin tires
    Kool Stop brake pads

    Hybrid/Commuter: Giant Escape 1
    Panaracer 28c T-Serv tires
    Ergon GP2-L Grips
    Serfas Lycra Dual Density Saddle
    Eleven81 BMX Pedals
    Kool Stop brake pads
    Planet Bike Blaze 2W front light
    Planet Bike Superflash Stealth rear light
    Topeak Explorer MTX Rack
    Topeak MTX Trunk Bag EX
    Topeak MTX TrunkBag DXP with Expandable Side Panniers
    Topeak Aero Expanding Wedge - Medium
    Garmin GPSMap 60CSx

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