53 chainring with 34 chainring?
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53 chainring with 34 chainring?
I currently have a compact setup on my bike, I would like to swap the big ring for a standard 53 size chainring and leave the granny gear the same.
I think i have a 52/34, and would be changing to a 53/34.
I live in flat Florida, and end up spinning out with a 12/25 cassette on long sprints.
Would changing the cassette to a 11/25 have more of an impact?
I think i have a 52/34, and would be changing to a 53/34.
I live in flat Florida, and end up spinning out with a 12/25 cassette on long sprints.
Would changing the cassette to a 11/25 have more of an impact?
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Changing to a 53 from a 50T chainring will increase your top gear by 6% and probably cause front shifting problems and sluggishness and possibly require a longer chain. Changing to an 11T cassette will increase your top gear by 9% and have none of the negatives associated with the chainring change.
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Think about it this way: 53/12 = 4.417, so around that ratio, adding or removing 1 sprocket tooth is worth nearly 4.5 chainring teeth.
So 57/13 (4.385) and 49/11 (4.455) are about as close as you get either side of it. Dig?
So 57/13 (4.385) and 49/11 (4.455) are about as close as you get either side of it. Dig?
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Last edited by Kimmo; 05-20-12 at 08:25 AM.
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If you accept greasy finger up- shifting, rather than expect snappy indexing,
then all sorts of combinations work.
then all sorts of combinations work.
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I currently have a compact setup on my bike, I would like to swap the big ring for a standard 53 size chainring and leave the granny gear the same.
I think i have a 52/34, and would be changing to a 53/34.
I live in flat Florida, and end up spinning out with a 12/25 cassette on long sprints.
Would changing the cassette to a 11/25 have more of an impact?
I think i have a 52/34, and would be changing to a 53/34.
I live in flat Florida, and end up spinning out with a 12/25 cassette on long sprints.
Would changing the cassette to a 11/25 have more of an impact?
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And with the technical aspect out of the way, I'd like to suggest the OP start sending out his resume to professional racing teams. Anyone who can "spin out" a 52x12 on a flat road during a "long sprint" is going to attract some interest.
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Even if it really is 50/12 it's still impressive. 100 rpm in that gear (112 gear-inches) is 34 mph.
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IMO "spinning out" involves a cadence of 120 rpm at the very least. That's almost 41 MPH with a 52x12.
But a rider with a half-way decent pedal stroke will find that 120 RPM isn't anywhere close to "spinning out" and can actually be maintained with no more than slight discomfort. That rider would tell you that "spinning out" isn't even a concept until 150 rpm - more than 50 mph in a 52x12.
Of course, if he's a track racer, he'll be able to flirt with 200 rpm - as long as he can manage almost 68 mph.
So my post was really a suggestion that the OP forget about his gearing and try working on his pedaling - unless he really is exceeding 40 MPH on long flat sprints, in which case my suggestion about contacting the pro teams is a serious one.
But a rider with a half-way decent pedal stroke will find that 120 RPM isn't anywhere close to "spinning out" and can actually be maintained with no more than slight discomfort. That rider would tell you that "spinning out" isn't even a concept until 150 rpm - more than 50 mph in a 52x12.
Of course, if he's a track racer, he'll be able to flirt with 200 rpm - as long as he can manage almost 68 mph.
So my post was really a suggestion that the OP forget about his gearing and try working on his pedaling - unless he really is exceeding 40 MPH on long flat sprints, in which case my suggestion about contacting the pro teams is a serious one.
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That said, a 50x11 is a VERY tall high gear even for gear mashers.
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If you still spin out with the 50/11, get a standard, as opposed to compact, crank. You obviously will have no use for that weak 34t small ring!