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Old 05-20-12, 08:36 PM   #1
67tony
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Bottom bracket dismantle...

I'm taking my '78 Schwinn Super Le Tour 12.2 apart and have run into a bit of a delay getting the bottom bracket apart.

At the risk of sounding like a total noobie, which part do I break loose first, and would it be regular threads or reverse?

THANKS!
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Old 05-20-12, 09:05 PM   #2
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I'm sure real expert help will be along soon, but the first question is whether you intend to replace it or hope to save and service it. The answer will help folks guide you as to appropriate tool choice.
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Old 05-21-12, 12:39 AM   #3
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Remove the adjustable cup first the top picture. The outer ring, then the cup. Then when the spindles removed the fixed cup. Good luck, even with the correct tools, this is a pita.
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Old 05-21-12, 12:41 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by kalliergo View Post
I'm sure real expert help will be along soon, but the first question is whether you intend to replace it or hope to save and service it. The answer will help folks guide you as to appropriate tool choice.
Start with the lockring on the left side, shown in the first photo. The threading is right-handed, that is righty-tighty. A lockring spanner is the proper tool to use, but in a pinch a large channel lock pliers or hammer and old screwdriver will do. Next, remove the left hand cup--same threading. Correct tool is a pin spanner, but . . . The axle and balls should fall right out. Removal of the right hand cup is optional. This one is left-hand threaded and nearly always very stubborn. If you inisist on removing it, there is a proper spanner or you can use a large adjustable wrench. Most home mechanics leave it in, mopping it up with a cleaning rag full of grease solvent. If there's a plastic liner sleeve inside, remove it and clean it before reusing.

Chances are that the original bearings and retainer clips are shot. Your local shop might have replacement bearings in retainers, but I prefer to repack with loose balls. You'll need 2 or 3 extra balls to properly fill the cup. This makes for a stiffer bearing with less friction.
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Old 05-21-12, 07:18 AM   #5
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I hope to re-use, the rest of the bike was in pretty good shape so I assume low mileage. I guess that's one nice thing about mid-quality bikes; a guy that bought an expensive racer probably put a lot of miles on it, but a guy that buys a medium-quality road bike might not be as committed - leaving it unused in the barn for years.

Great answers, thanks a ton. I tried to break it loose, luckily correctly, but it is frozen so I worried I was doing something wrong. It's had a couple days of WD-40, so I'll tackle it tonight and post how it went.

Thanks again!
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Old 05-21-12, 07:26 AM   #6
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FWIW....I've found WD 40 useless for busting rust. Every one has their own favorite but I prefer PC Blaster and Liquid Wrench.
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Old 05-21-12, 07:34 AM   #7
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Is PC Blaster the politically correct version of PB Blaster? Roger
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Old 05-21-12, 08:14 AM   #8
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While it iss not easy to do if your intent is to reuse the BB there is no need to remove the "Fixed" cup, after all they are called that for a reason.
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Old 05-21-12, 05:34 PM   #9
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Is PC Blaster the politically correct version of PB Blaster? Roger
Actually it's a product of my terrible keyboard and spelling skills.
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Old 05-21-12, 08:14 PM   #10
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I knew the experts would solve the problem. The real mechanics in this forum are absolutely amazing.
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Old 05-21-12, 08:53 PM   #11
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I'm switching to PB Blaster for all my future dismantling needs. Everything came apart easily, including the fixed cup side. I'm probably not painting, but I figure while I'm at it, might as well take things all the way apart!

Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 05-21-12, 08:57 PM   #12
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+1 on leaving the drive side cup right where it is, assuming the bearing surface is in good shape.
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Old 05-22-12, 02:29 AM   #13
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If you really want to remove the right side cup (the fixed cup), I've found to work best a benchtop vise where you fit the cup, and turn the frame around it. (don't do it on swivel head benchtop vise , and don't do it on vises with rounded edges on the jaws - like the rather large ones you ought to find in a blacksmith's shop, already worn and deformed out of plane and rounded on the corners of the jaws)

The frame should stay horizontally just by the tightening of the vise on the fixed cup (on those 2-3mm protruding) - so you need sharp jaws on the vise for that. (and bolted on a sturdy bench)

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Old 05-22-12, 07:14 AM   #14
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The vise method is a good idea, similar to removing a freewheel.

I let it set for 10 minutes after PB Blasting it and, using a steel-handled crescent (not rubber), gave it a sharp rap with the flat of a hammer. Voila!
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Old 05-22-12, 09:20 AM   #15
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Do not remove the fixed cup!
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Old 05-22-12, 10:49 AM   #16
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Do not remove the fixed cup!
It's already off, but just out of curiosity...why not remove the fixed cup?
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