Hey guys, I am having some trouble w/ my third wheel build, and wanted to check if you think I am on the right track.
Rims are used Mavic MA40s, lot of brake wear on the anodization but rims look straight when placed on glass counter, I greased the base of the eyelets (where the nipples seat) just in case there was corrosion but they looked fine down there.
Hubs are used Normandy high flange, this is from a '70's Peugeot. Daughter's UO-8 is getting the steel basketweave Rigidas replaced with inexpensive but sort-of-period alloy rims.
Spokes are new Wheelsmith 2.0mm straight everywhere, except I'm using Wheelsmith 2.0-1.7-2.0mm double butted for rear non-drive side.
Nipples are new DT brass.
Pattern is basic 3 cross.
The problem I'm having with the rear wheel is: I still have about 1/4" correction to make to dish, need to pull the rim toward the drive side, but the drive side nipples are getting worryingly hard to turn.
I did grease the spoke threads and have placed a drop of oil on the nipple-spoke and nipple-eyelet points too. Even so, some of the nipples feel like they are getting close to rounding over. (You know how you can feel that point coming.) I'm using a basic Park spoke wrench, size 0.
Drive side tension is about #26 on the Park TM-1 tool which translates to about 135 lb I think. On the non-drive side it is about #20 which translates to about 110 lb. Tension on each side is pretty darned even. Lateral true is pretty close by now, so is radial, its really the dish that I am struggling with - no, I don't know why I didn't get dish sorted out before things got to this point.
I stopped working on this wheel last night, to think about what to do before I broke something. My plan now is (1) to make further dish corrections (and further lateral/radial corrections) by loosening the non-drive side, not by tightening the drive side. (2) to get a "four-sided" spoke wrench, to use if I do need to tighten a drive side spoke a bit.
Make sense? Or, do you think I should back off the tension on both sides?