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  1. #1
    jmX
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    130mm hub on a 135mm bike?

    I've got a spare Powertap PRO+ rim laying around and I was wondering if there was any way to have it be usable on my hybrid bike with 135mm spacing without bending the frame.

    Are there any spacers for this? Maybe Saris/cyclops has another axle or endcaps that can be used?

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    Meh. I would just use a washer on each side if i was lazy. If I wanted to be good, I would remove the locking nuts, put a 2mm or so spacer on each side and replace the locking nuts. If i wanted to be perfect, I would respace the wheel and then check the dish with the dishing tool and possibly adjust it.

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    If your frame is steel, i would probably just throw the wheel on as is and tighten down the skewer.

  4. #4
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Don't know, they use the same 10x1 axles as Shimano?

  5. #5
    jmX
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    The frame is aluminum, and I'm not sure if using washers would really allow for enough engagement in the dropouts for me to feel safe. I'll look into that tonight when I'm at the bike.

    2.5mm for each side doesn't seem like much...maybe the rear will flex enough to clamp down on the wheel properly, I don't know. Even if I did get it securely clamped in I'm not sure how that affects the chain line - I assume I'll have to re-setup the high/low limits on the rear der.

    I sure would use the hybrid a lot more if it had this power meter on it.

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    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    If you use a good steel skewer, the protruding axle isn't what holds the wheel in place, but rather the skewer itself. If this weren't true, it would be impossible to use horizontal dropouts with QR.

    If you're just swapping this wheel between your hybrid and another 130mm bike, I'd just add 2mm to each side so the dish doesn't get screwed up (134mm is close enough...) Otherwise if this is a permanent use for the wheel, I'd put 5mm of spacer on the non-drive side then redish the wheel as necessary.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

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    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmX View Post
    The frame is aluminum, and I'm not sure if using washers would really allow for enough engagement in the dropouts for me to feel safe. I'll look into that tonight when I'm at the bike.

    2.5mm for each side doesn't seem like much...maybe the rear will flex enough to clamp down on the wheel properly, I don't know. Even if I did get it securely clamped in I'm not sure how that affects the chain line - I assume I'll have to re-setup the high/low limits on the rear der.
    You won't need to change a thing with the RD if you keep the cogs in the exact place they are now. The extra 5mm goes on the left side of the hub to reduce wheel-dish. The cogs are in the same location relative to the right dropout and derailleur on a 130 or 135mm wheel. Please "remove" with "add" in the picture below:



    Also it's the friction between the dropout and locknut face that transmits the loads to the bearings, then to the bearings and hub-shell. The QR skewers generate the tension force and friction (f=uN) that keeps the locknut from moving relative to the dropout face. The skewers only face tension forces, never any vertical-loading.

    If it was only the skewers that held the wheel on, you would have vertical movement of the axle relative to the frame because the hole in the axle for the skewer is larger than the skewer itself. With horizontal dropouts, you can have a skewer with smooth clamping surfaces and it will hold a wheel just fine if the locknuts are serrated. However, serrated QR nuts won't hold a hub with smooth locknuts very well and requires a lot more clamping force than the 1st scenario.

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