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  1. #1
    Fax Transport Specialist black_box's Avatar
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    maintenance for bearings, integrated headset and rear hub

    Bike: 2007 fuji cross pro
    Headset: 1 1/8" IS-24 integrated headset, according to online sources.

    I've had some creaking in the headset region, tried a bunch of things (tightening stem cap, re-torquing all stem bolts) but it's still there. I took out the fork for inspection and removed the top bearings with no issue. Should the bottom bearing easily come out? not sure if it's supposed to be removed by hand like the top or if I need to tap it from above? there isn't much of the outer race visible from above, but I can give it a try.

    Also, I'm not sure if the lower bearing is trashed or if it's just a feature of the angled bearing face, but I can move the inner race back and forth quite a bit while the outer race is still snug in the frame. Does that play go away when the fork is in place, pushing the inner race upwards?

    Rear hub: formula hub, cartridge bearings
    The wheel had some side-to-side play about a year ago, maybe 3k miles on it. I fixed this by tightening the cassette-side bolt. Now the play is back and when trying to tighten it again, the opposite side bolt came loose. So now there's no way to hold the axle still while tightening one of them. Do I need to buy a nut that I can put over the end to block one from moving? I don't think this hub has an internal hex fitting to hold the axle.

    The bike has about 5k miles on it, the stock wheels probably 3500. I figure the bearings weren't the greatest to begin with, should I just buy a new set?

  2. #2
    Must... ride... more... Phil_gretz's Avatar
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    Rear hub: Look on the internet for a diagram, but here's what you should have.

    [non drive side] >> outer lock nut >> slotted washer >> spacer (optional) >> free washer (optional) >> CONE >> bearings >> hub/axle/hub << bearings << CONE << washer/spacer << slotted washer << outer lock nut [drive side].

    You described tightening the outer lock nut, when in reality, you need a cone wrench and need to adjust the CONE(s) on one side to set the bearing friction and play. Hold the frozen outer lock nut in a vise with the wheel horizontal, using two cone wrenches, move the adjusting cone until there is no longer any plan and a hint of resistance in the bearings, back off 1/4 turn. Hold the adjusting cone stationary with cone wrench and tighten outer lock nut with corresponding combination wrench.

    Install wheel and test. Re-adjust as necessary.

    Does this make sense?

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil_gretz View Post
    Rear hub: Look on the internet for a diagram, but here's what you should have.

    [non drive side] >> outer lock nut >> slotted washer >> spacer (optional) >> free washer (optional) >> CONE >> bearings >> hub/axle/hub << bearings << CONE << washer/spacer << slotted washer << outer lock nut [drive side].

    You described tightening the outer lock nut, when in reality, you need a cone wrench and need to adjust the CONE(s) on one side to set the bearing friction and play. Hold the frozen outer lock nut in a vise with the wheel horizontal, using two cone wrenches, move the adjusting cone until there is no longer any plan and a hint of resistance in the bearings, back off 1/4 turn. Hold the adjusting cone stationary with cone wrench and tighten outer lock nut with corresponding combination wrench.

    Install wheel and test. Re-adjust as necessary.

    Does this make sense?
    He doesn't have cup and cone bearings he has radial (cartridge) bearings.

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