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  1. #1
    Tandem Vincitur Ritterview's Avatar
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    Bad link in Campy 11-speed chain

    My relatively new chain dropped, and became wedged between the bottom bracket area and the chainring. After extricating it (which took some doing), the chain link that was stuck has been crooked, staying out of line. As a result, the chain skips in just about all gears.



    Is there any way to remove and replace a bad link in a Campy 11-speed chain?

    Could I replace the link with a KMC Missing Link?

    Could I use a Campy HD-link kit?

  2. #2
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    Have you tried bending it out? You know, like when you put a new chain on and you need to loosen up the tight link, you bend the chain side to side to slightly spread the plates. Might also want to bend it into a Z and then bend side to side again as well.

  3. #3
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    If the above advice doesn't loosen the damaged link then replace it with the missing link. I use them on all of my chains and they are literally a snap to open and close, handy for cleaning the chain.

  4. #4
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    Bending the chain would be tricky to do. Might be possible, but any prying on the chain could make the outer plates more likely to come off a pin. While it's possible to remove a few inches of chain and install two new joining pins, a few inches apart, the pins are not cheap and the fix would not be nearly as strong as the original chain.

    It would be best to just get a new chain. I buy Chorus chains for about $35 from sources like Ribble and get six at a time, to make the order worthwhile.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveSSS View Post
    Bending the chain would be tricky to do. Might be possible, but any prying on the chain could make the outer plates more likely to come off a pin. .
    When I say b end the chain, I am meaning bending it like you do when you install a new chain with a chain tool. You then bend it gently to loosen up the plates that got tight with the use of the chain tool on that link.

    Here is a video of what I mean
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QU79CQsz-Ps

  6. #6
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    If side flexing doesn't free it, take a careful look at the area of overlap between the plates on that link, and the ones to either side. There's a chance that you'll find a nick, where the metal was peened over the sides of a plate. Often these little nicks span two plates and the burrs latch them together a bit.

    This won't clear with side flexing. The fix is to carefully file the edge of the plate down to the nick. Don't notch it, but use a flat file down to enough depth that the chain improves. You don't have to get it perfect, once the chain runs smoothly, wear will resolve it 100%.
    FB
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    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

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  7. #7
    Tandem Vincitur Ritterview's Avatar
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    Okay, thanks everyone for the replies. I think I will replace this chain, as it is on a tandem, has heavier demands and won't so easily tolerate a weak link. Also, if it breaks it won't do any good to call my wife to pick me up, as the stoker's phone will ring, and I'll still be stuck!

    I have more, but directly related questions. I plan on getting a longer cage RD. It is now a 53-42-30 triple, with a 12-29 11-speed cassette. I have a 55 mm cage Record RD. When the Athena 11-speed triple is released, I plan to get a an Athena RD, with a 72.5 or 82 mm RD cage, and changing the front chainrings to 53-39-28.

    • Will I need to make the chain longer for the longer cage RD?
    • If I use a KMC Missing Link on the new chain, will I be able to add the needed links to the chain and reattach?
    • If I can't add links, can I remove links, reattach, and use the chain on my double-equipped single bike?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ritterview View Post
    Okay, thanks everyone for the replies. I think I will replace this chain, as it is on a tandem, has heavier demands and won't so easily tolerate a weak link. Also, if it breaks it won't do any good to call my wife to pick me up, as the stoker's phone will ring, and I'll still be stuck!

    I have more, but directly related questions. I plan on getting a longer cage RD. It is now a 53-42-30 triple, with a 12-29 11-speed cassette. I have a 55 mm cage Record RD. When the Athena 11-speed triple is released, I plan to get a an Athena RD, with a 72.5 or 82 mm RD cage, and changing the front chainrings to 53-39-28.

    • Will I need to make the chain longer for the longer cage RD?
    • If I use a KMC Missing Link on the new chain, will I be able to add the needed links to the chain and reattach?
    • If I can't add links, can I remove links, reattach, and use the chain on my double-equipped single bike?
    Possibly, but not necessarily. The longer cage holds more chain, but in the extreme big/big combination the cage lays along the length of the lower loop, so the added length won't make a difference. In practice, it'll depend on how you measure chain. A longer cage increases the longest possible chain length without affecting the shortest. If you measure by the Campagnolo method of using the longest chain possible, then you might want to (but not have to) lengthen the chain.

    Yes, you can splice more links onto an existing chain using a 2nd connector. If I do that, I like the new and old links to nave similar wear, so I usually only lengthen fairly new chains.

    You can always cut off links to shorten a chain and re-close with a connector. Like with everything else, it's best to measure twice and cut once.
    FB
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    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

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  9. #9
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    11 speed ? for best performance , replace it,
    add a K edge or other chain catchers to keep it from jamming again.

  10. #10
    Nobody mconlonx's Avatar
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    Campy chains aren't cheap -- you may be able to source a Campy replacement link package which includes a short length of chain and a couple chain pins for a repair like this.
    I know next to nothing. I am frequently wrong.

  11. #11
    Tandem Vincitur Ritterview's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    add a K edge or other chain catchers to keep it from jamming again.
    I couldn't get a K-Edge triple/tandem version to work with my Shimano Dura Ace triple FD.

    The Deda Dog Fang wouldn't slip down far enough.

    A Third Eye chain watcher barely worked, but would not stay fixed, and would (as in this case) allow the chain to slip through.

    The N-Gear Jump Stop would fit the 33 mm Calfee seat tube in neither 31.8 or 34.9 mm. I had to get a special shim from Calfee to fit the 34.9 mm. I now have it on, and it is great to have a robust and reliable chain catcher.

  12. #12
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    You shouldn't need to lengthen the chain, since the big/big is the same and that length is not affected by the cage length. Of course, this assumes that you made the chain long enough to wrap the big/big (plus one inch) and just let the chain hang loose in the little ring and several of the smallest cogs. Otherewise, go back to the little/little method and you might get the suggestion to use a 1 inch longer chain.

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