Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sunnyvale, California
Bikes: Bridgestone RB-1, 600, T700, MB-6 w/ Dirt Drops, MB-Zip, Bianchi Limited, Nashbar Hounder
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The width alone isn't the key. There is the inner link shape, and the base of the outer link pin where the inner bushingless link rests on. The radius and shape may vary and there is no guarantee of compatibility. You splice at your own risk. We talk about minute fractions of a mm in link pin pressing when replacing chains being a concern for the chain breaking, but I think the inner link shape and bushingless radius is even more important. Some are flat with perpendicular, but some are not. It's far more risky, IMO, than just pushing the link pin back on the chain without replacing the master link or using a new chain pin. It's not that I'm paranoid, but I wouldn't recommend it for more than an emergency repair, and only if that person is reasonable in weight. For a clyde - probably not except if I had no choice.